This week I'm going to do the smart thing with my 95 GTX and change out all those darn grey tempo lines with automotive fuel lines before I run it again. Before I get into it, I was wondering if anyone can share some hints or tips to make it easier It appears that moving the fuel tank forward (after removing the carb fuel lines) into the storage compartment area may make accessibility much easier. By the way, the original fuel hose connection clamps are interesting with the nibs on the band...any tips on how to easily remove them?
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95 GTX grey tempo fuel line changeout - how to hints??
- Thread starter Aug
- Start date
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For easy access remove the front basket. Mark the bafel lines A-B-C-D, and mark the bafel nipples or draw a circle on your gas tank of each line orientation position. The bafel top ring also has embedded its line orientation, but thats hard to see in the ski.
1>On the fuel valve is a knob that the center rubber cove picks off the remove the #2 phillips screw and the knob comes off, then undo the retain nut on the valve so you can push the valve thru the hull hole. 2> remove the nut on that secures the water separator filter to its mounting plate. 3. Use wire cutter pliers and snip the four fuel bafel line retaining oetikers on the bafel top nipples to pull off those four lines. 4> Pull the carbs airbox & arrestor plate off. 5> remove the Return and the Supply fuel lines from the carb nipples. 6> snip any zip ties on these four lines, and gently pull the whole octopus out of the machine. Buy 20' of fuel line, read the carb Sticky I wrote. It has a great info on cleaning the switch, ect. Cut new line one at a time for length, mark, end,its orientation letter. The new octopus goes back in same way it came out. Each line goes to the nipple same orientation mark. Use 11" zip ties to re-secure to all nipples, and tie the lines so they don't bounce around, like the first secureing ties you previously cut, so as to remove your octopus assembly of fuel lines. 7>
Prime the fuel lines before attaching them to the carb(s) by injecting a very small amount of air psi into the return line and catch the supply line fuel in a bottle placed near the mag carb. Open the gas cap to stop fuel flow. Do that with the fuel switch on both Reserve and Run, to insure fuel flows when in each position.
8> Now you are ready to start the engine.
Fuel Line: 20 feet of 1/4" id
Oil Injection pump to RV spigot tube lines: a 6" and a 8" pieces of Tygon weed-eater 3/32" id fuel line.
Bills86e
1>On the fuel valve is a knob that the center rubber cove picks off the remove the #2 phillips screw and the knob comes off, then undo the retain nut on the valve so you can push the valve thru the hull hole. 2> remove the nut on that secures the water separator filter to its mounting plate. 3. Use wire cutter pliers and snip the four fuel bafel line retaining oetikers on the bafel top nipples to pull off those four lines. 4> Pull the carbs airbox & arrestor plate off. 5> remove the Return and the Supply fuel lines from the carb nipples. 6> snip any zip ties on these four lines, and gently pull the whole octopus out of the machine. Buy 20' of fuel line, read the carb Sticky I wrote. It has a great info on cleaning the switch, ect. Cut new line one at a time for length, mark, end,its orientation letter. The new octopus goes back in same way it came out. Each line goes to the nipple same orientation mark. Use 11" zip ties to re-secure to all nipples, and tie the lines so they don't bounce around, like the first secureing ties you previously cut, so as to remove your octopus assembly of fuel lines. 7>
Prime the fuel lines before attaching them to the carb(s) by injecting a very small amount of air psi into the return line and catch the supply line fuel in a bottle placed near the mag carb. Open the gas cap to stop fuel flow. Do that with the fuel switch on both Reserve and Run, to insure fuel flows when in each position.
8> Now you are ready to start the engine.
Fuel Line: 20 feet of 1/4" id
Oil Injection pump to RV spigot tube lines: a 6" and a 8" pieces of Tygon weed-eater 3/32" id fuel line.
Bills86e
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- BiRkS_
Active Member
Grab them at the little raised crimp section and cut them off with side cutters (wire cutters). Then just peel the metal clamp off. Or grab that raised section perpendicular to the band and twist. That will also do it. (only do this method with metal nipples (ex carbs) not on fuel baffle as you can snap the nipples off.
Well, it got a little interesting today. The fuel selector switch appears to be the original, and has white corrosion caked solid holding it in place on the panelboard. The black retaining ring pretty much dissolved in my hands. I think I may want to consider buying a new selector switch before proceeding forward...
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