95 GTX engine issue.

[94silver]

So I finally seem to have contain all of my water problems with my seadoo, however a new problem just started.

Today I took out the jetski and it ran great for about 15 min, then it just die on me, it would start but I couldn't give it any throttle as it would just die, after I pull it out of the water the engine would start just fine w/o any issues and stay running.

Any ideas what could cause that? It seems to run fine out of the water but as soon as I put it in it wont start unless I choke it a few times and even then I can give it any throttle as it just stalls.

 

[kustomkarl]

There have been a lot of problems related to the GRAY fuel lines on the older models. I would measure the total length needed and bring a sample to like Auto Zone and buy new black Fuel Line. Replace the clamps with stainless steel ones too. The problem is that the inside of the fuel lines deteriorate and clog up the interior filter in the carburetor. It will need to be cleaned. Keep us posted, and give us a shout if you get in a jam.

Karl

 

[94silver]

OK so I took your advice and also went a little further, I took off the carbs cause I figured they could use a nice cleaning and I found a couple of intresting things:

This rubber boot was like this when I remove the carbs:

What exactly does this part do?


Also is it normal that this surface is so scratch up?

If so can I smooth it down a bit or should I just leave it alone? Also what are those gold things on the side of each intake? they don't seem to have a hose attached to them.


And last what is this assembly for? it seems like some kind of linkage but nothing was attached to this.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[kustomkarl]

well, the plate in the first picture is the rotary valve cover...it looks pretty scored up and could use replacing. How does the rotary valve itself look? If you pull the Rotary valve off, it has to be placed back in the exact place or you will have to set the timing marks up again with a degree wheel so it is in time. That item under the carb in the last picture is the 2 stroke oil injector pump. I bet the last owner had a seizure problem and discounted the injector pump and went to premix. The 2 brass stems in the intakes of the carb is where the oil flows into the engine when injected by the oil pump injector. Do you have a manual? If not you might need one to help repair the problems in the picture...here is a suggestion;
If you want you could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.

Karl

 

[94silver]

well, the plate in the first picture is the rotary valve cover...it looks pretty scored up and could use replacing. How does the rotary valve itself look? If you pull the Rotary valve off, it has to be placed back in the exact place or you will have to set the timing marks up again with a degree wheel so it is in time. That item under the carb in the last picture is the 2 stroke oil injector pump. I bet the last owner had a seizure problem and discounted the injector pump and went to premix. The 2 brass stems in the intakes of the carb is where the oil flows into the engine when injected by the oil pump injector. Do you have a manual? If not you might need one to help repair the problems in the picture...here is a suggestion;
If you want you could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.

Karl

Ah so that makes total sense then, the engine was shutting down because the gas / oil is not being pre-mixed, do you think I cause any damage to the engine by trying to run it like that? I mean it still seems to be able to crank up before I took it apart and it would run for a few sec before it would shut off.

Also I already have the manuals, what is the proper procedure to block off the oil pump?

 

[kustomkarl]

Since you have the Rotary valve out or the engine I would pull the heads and look at the condition of the cylinders and pistons/ rings. I bet it will looks as bad as the Rotary Valve Cover. If it does it will not be a cheap repair...

Karl

 

[94silver]

Since you have the Rotary valve out or the engine I would pull the heads and look at the condition of the cylinders and pistons/ rings. I bet it will looks as bad as the Rotary Valve Cover. If it does it will not be a cheap repair...

Karl

I didn't want to go that deep but I guess I might just have to... I really would like to... so do u think I did cause some damage to the engine ?

 

[derek]

you have a problem. i seriously doubt the engine survived the no oil running it just got. pull the plugs and remove the plastic cover over the rear flywheel. (pto flywheel) does motor turn over smoothly and easily? or does it start to feel tight for part or all of the rotation? if it still turns free, the crank and rods may have survived. now do a compression check. (make sure you have beer ready-you will probly will need the pain killer.) now you need to pull heads-even if compression was ok-and see what tops of pistons look like. 95 GTX. 720 motor? if pistons are ok, motor might live a little longer. since it doesn't have any power, your chances are pretty slim. i wouldn't spend money on the top end of that motor, unless you are gonna scare up used pistons-hone the bore and squeeze a little more time out of it. decent used motors are $400 to $500. rebuilts $700 to however much u want to spend. SBT with 2 year no questions asked warranty is $1000. 1 year warr $750. make sure you fix that oil pump or buy a block-off plate and pre-mix gas.

 

[94silver]

you have a problem. i seriously doubt the engine survived the no oil running it just got. pull the plugs and remove the plastic cover over the rear flywheel. (pto flywheel) does motor turn over smoothly and easily? or does it start to feel tight for part or all of the rotation? if it still turns free, the crank and rods may have survived. now do a compression check. (make sure you have beer ready-you will probly will need the pain killer.) now you need to pull heads-even if compression was ok-and see what tops of pistons look like. 95 GTX. 720 motor? if pistons are ok, motor might live a little longer. since it doesn't have any power, your chances are pretty slim. i wouldn't spend money on the top end of that motor, unless you are gonna scare up used pistons-hone the bore and squeeze a little more time out of it. decent used motors are $400 to $500. rebuilts $700 to however much u want to spend. SBT with 2 year no questions asked warranty is $1000. 1 year warr $750. make sure you fix that oil pump or buy a block-off plate and pre-mix gas.

Well remember is not like it ran w/o oil, I think the problem is that the pre-mix wasn't correct so it was running on more gas than oil so I hope that the motor survive, I mean it at least started and idle for a few secs before it die before I pull everything appart.

I will try to take it all apart this weekend and see what it does, hopefully all is well.

 

[kustomkarl]

The problem is if it didn't have enough oil or no oil doesn't matter...Friction and heat build up is the worst thing to have happen from lack of lubrication.

Karl