94 GTX runs rough after taking in water

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alpinewhite

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Hi all,

My 94 GTX once had a slit on one of clear water hoses (5/16" I think). It slowly took in some water when it sat while we were eating lunch. When we were ready to go home, the ski wouldn't start. I looked inside and realized that water had made its way in to a point where it wouldn't take in any more water. I'm guessing that the water reached to about the base of the carbs. I put the ski on the trailer, drained the water, and went home. Later, I fixed the hose and took the ski out again. During this trip, the ski won't rev up very high. Hitting the throttle doesn't make it rev higher. Whenever I would get some air, the motor would wind up and will stay revving high until I slowed down again. Acceleration was also really poor.

When I got home, I suspected that I needed a carb rebuild so I had them rebuilt. The guy at the carb shop also convinced me to replace my fuel lines as he says that the old gray ones deteriorate and clog fuel filters. And so I did. I didn't (yet) replace the return fuel hose or the vent hoses, though. I also put in a fresh tank of gas. It still ran poorly while on the trailer. I tried using a different fuel feed which I dipped into the fuel tank and it appeared to run better. With this, I was blaming the pickup and/or the fuel selector. I ran a new line from one of the two connectors from the top of the fuel tank. I tried using one of the ones which went to the fuel selector. Still ran bad. I tried the other one with no luck. Motor runs bad and I'm getting backfiring from the carb. That sounds like a lean condition, right? I forgot to mention that I also installed an inline fuel filter just before the carb so that I can see fuel as it makes it into the carb.

What could've happened? Any insight? I can see how I can have fuel delivery problems but I can't see how that could've been related to the ski taking in water. Please help. I'm running out of ideas. The last thing I can think of that went bad is the fuel pickup assembly that sits on top of the fuel tank. I'm talking about the piece with 4 fuel connectors on top.

I forgot to mention the following.

1. First trip after clearing the water and fixing hose, ski ran but without power. I was actually able to run it for about 20 minutes on the first run. Upon returning, I didn't use it anymore as it wasn't fun without a lot of power. That is when I decided to have the carb rebuilt.

2. 2nd trip was after carb rebuild. Still ran poorly. Motor wouldn't even stay running without effort on my part. Lots of popping on the carb (lean, right?).

3. 3rd trip was after all fuel supply hoses (not vent or return) were changed and tank was loaded with fresh fuel. Fuel filter was also installed just before the carbs. Same symptoms as 2 above. I also noticed that an air pocket is in the new fuel filter after the motor dies. Is that air pocket normal? Does that mean that air is making it in the fuel line?
 
Did you remove the spark plugs from the engine when you first found the water? Hydrolocking the cylinders with water inside is not got for the rings or the rotary valve. If this was not done, then you may have some other repairs to consider on the pistons,cylinders,and crank.

That being said, there may still be some other things to check - particularly the condition of the rotary valve just under the carbs. See if it was bent or does not rotate freely.
 
The water level didn't make it to the heads. Thus, I don't think I hydrolocked it. Turning over the motor was never a problem. Keeping it running was. However, I'm not sure if there's water in the crankcase. Is the crankcase water-tight?

The rotary valve was not bent. I saw it when pulled out the intake manifold as I was pulling out the carbs for the rebuild.

Someone suggested to be to check if there's water in the stator box. I will check that this weekend.
 
The crankcase and front stator cover in theory are water tight. But on older skis, sometimes this may not be the case because of aged gaskets or inferior gasket replacements over the years.

Check the spark plug cables - pull the spark plug boot off the end of the wire cut about 1/8" off. Apply electric contact grease and reinsert - use a ziptie to secure. You might be losing some energy through the wire as the tip corrodes.
 
Backfireing through the carbs on the Rotax engines usually means you have rotary valve or rotary valve timing issues. If you removed the valve when you took the intake off, you will need to re-time the intake timing. Also, you need to check if the rotary valve shaft gear has been damaged. When you remove the rotary valve cover to check/retime the valve, rotate the pto while holding resistance on the valve and check for "dead" spots. The valve will stop turning in sequence with the crankshaft. Also feel for excessive play on the brass gears.
 
valves

I had the same problem on my 96 gtx, turned out to be loaded rave valves, took them out and cleaned them with spray carburater cleaner to shine them, put them back in and the ski ran like a champ.
Good luck
Rick
 
motor not revingor running at half throtted

make sure u have good ground at starter and no water in coil box if so dry out and spray with wd40 to keep water out.and check fuel filter.
 
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