787 rotary valve clearance

[ghostboner]

Solder method.......any reason why I shouldn't use 1mm rosin instead of the .8mm

 

[GGuillot]

I don't see why not, I used .62mm, the experienced can chime in and explain otherwise.

BTW - RV in when measuring, I don't know why, but I get a different value measuring with it out then subtracting RV thickness, etc.

 

[ghostboner]

So what is thickness of the valve suppose to be?.......I just got an average of .62 on old valve n new valve taking probably 20 measurements on each

 

[GGuillot]

So what is thickness of the valve suppose to be?.......I just got an average of .62 on old valve n new valve taking probably 20 measurements on each

I'm not sure how your measurement is coming up with .62 or .062 I think you mean. My new WSM RV measured at .024 (24 thousandths) I had the machine shop verify also, .024. My old one had a rust spot (engine sat with water in it), but I think it was about .023.

After installing the engine, becoming a little anxious, I almost didn't check it, but I was way out of spec, but went with the RV out method, which isn't right. I had .006 (6 thousandths) milled on the cover edge and oring seat, but according to my RV in measurements it still needs about .003 removed to be in spec at .014

It starts fine, hasn't hesitated, no hard starts, and doesn't quit, so I'm leaving it alone for now, maybe in about 50 hrs I'll recheck and see where I'm at.

 

[ghostboner]

 

[ghostboner]

.62mm=.024inch

 

[GGuillot]

.62mm=.024inch

Ok, miscommunication, you didn't reference mm, I was referencing in thousandths of an inch, within spec is .014 or 35mm with RV in. The machine shops I've always dealt with on automotive bearing clearances, boring, etc, talk in inches not mm. So when I told them take off 6 thousandths they understood.

 

[mikidymac]

Stay away from the WSM rotary valves as the teeth cut in them are not eccentric like the OEM ones so you can’t get the 1/2 tooth change by flipping them over to get the timing perfect.

 

[GGuillot]

Stay away from the WSM rotary valves as the teeth cut in them are not eccentric like the OEM ones so you can’t get the 1/2 tooth change by flipping them over to get the timing perfect.

Maybe some old batches had a problem, the new WSM RV I bought worked perfect, and flipping it does get the 1/2 tooth change. I laid it on top the stock one and couldn't see any difference. Now only if some scavenger people didn't want more for an imperfect 20 yr old RV over a new one it would make choices easier. But I think the false rumor spreading isn't helping, I saw your recommendation before I bought it but decided to role the dice, I wasn't paying more for a used one, maybe they'd take it back if true. But it's fine...

 

[mikidymac]

It’s not a “false rumor”. I had an argument with them 2 years ago and even sent pictures and they still argued that it’s impossible to make one eccentric although somehow seadoo managed to.

If you have confirmed they have changed the way they make them and have first hand experience they are now eccentric just like OEM I am fine with that and am glad they finally looked into it and corrected the problem.

Also in a few other threads you are coming of a little combative, keep in mind some of us have been doing this a long time and might know a thing or two about what we are saying and actually seen first hand what we are sharing with others. Things change and we welcome the shared knowledge so no need for comments like “false rumors “.

 

[GGuillot]

It’s not a “false rumor”. I had an argument with them 2 years ago and even sent pictures and they still argued that it’s impossible to make one eccentric although somehow seadoo managed to.

If you have confirmed they have changed the way they make them and have first hand experience they are now eccentric just like OEM I am fine with that and am glad they finally looked into it and corrected the problem.

Also in a few other threads you are coming of a little combative, keep in mind some of us have been doing this a long time and might know a thing or two about what we are saying and actually seen first hand what we are sharing with others. Things change and we welcome the shared knowledge so no need for comments like “false rumors “.

Point taken, no need for the comments, but neither are comments telling people to "stay away from" something when in this case it's no longer true.

I'll pipe down, I'm taking a break off the forum for a little while and going do some riding...

 

[ghostboner]

K.....all that "stuff" when my original ??? Was why manual states use.8 mm solder....why 1mm wouldn't wrk or will it harm something or am I overthinking ...used feeler gauge method...32mm.....So if anyone knows....I'm curious!!!!

 

[mikidymac]

Just use what you have

 

[etemplet]

I've never used solder as a machinist. we always used plasti-gauge. My concern with using solder on my ski was that I didn't want to use to large a diameter solder. You want to get a proper reading but I believe there is a point where it can be "too thick". Not sure where that would be. I've cut my solder in half to check the piston squish.