6AMP "6-minutes to start" Battery charger

[scooper77515]

I just bought a Schumacher 6 amp charger, model SC-600A ($30 at Wal-Mart), and the box says it has a function called "6 minute charge to start". I am pretty sure this isn't safe for the computers and electronics on the XP, but would it be safe to use if I detached the battery cables and hit the battery directly?

Otherwise, this charger offers 6, 4, and 2 amp charges, which should I generally use for the XP for a once-a-month overnight boost?

 

[scooper77515]

Cmon guys. Simple question. Can I detach the battery and do a quick 6-minute charge for starting purposes...?

No responses all day long...I expected more from you all:boxing_smiley:

Otherwise, what setting should I put the charger on...I am guessing the lowest 2A setting...

 

[Dennis]

Charging

Hi SCOOPER,
The best way to charge a battery is 2 amps for about 5 hours. If it's a good battery then this will be plenty. People tend to over charge batteries and that leads to early failure. I don't think I would do the "6 minute quick charge " method unless there is no other option. Have the battery disconnected. If you have doubts about the battery being good just replace it. Most MPEM failures are do to people using "jump boxes" cause their in a hurry or too cheap to buy a new battery.
DAWG

 

[robin savell lloyd]

Hi SCOOPER,
The best way to charge a battery is 2 amps for about 5 hours. If it's a good battery then this will be plenty. People tend to over charge batteries and that leads to early failure. I don't think I would do the "6 minute quick charge " method unless there is no other option. Have the battery disconnected. If you have doubts about the battery being good just replace it. Most MPEM failures are do to people using "jump boxes" cause their in a hurry or too cheap to buy a new battery.
DAWG

:agree: :agree::agree:

 

[seadoosnipe]

Jump boxes?.....

Scooper, we've all had this conversation a few times about the importance of not jumping the Seadoo's.......This may result in electrical failure due to shorting.......but that's where it ends for me.
I'll have to disagree with DAWG on the jump boxes, because it's the same thing as having two batteries in the boat and using a selection switch to run one, both or off.
The issue with jump starting the engine has to do with the electrical system of what your jumping from. When you hear the phrase, "do not jump start". This is entirely based on the idea that jump starting is done with the other engine your starting from is running. This is where the electrical failure can come from. Because the battery itself holds about 12 vdc, it's o.k. to jump from that battery, with that vehicle off. But running, that vehicle's charging system comes into play with your electrical system, which is now sending 14 vdc to that battery your jumping from.
If you jump start your craft, make sure tha vehicle your starting from is off. Then, you can safely jump start.
Now, I know there will be a lot of debate about this but I, myself have done this many, many times with no problems. I have also used my charger on high amps to get a quick charge for a start.
We all talk about these electrical systems and the damage that can be done. But there not that tempermental. They also have fuese to help protect them, including the most important, the MPEM. There is risk of electrical back feed into the mpem, but hell, you can do that yourself from your own battery while messing with your system.
The last note.........I do agree with Dawg again on "don't be so cheap, buy a damn battery!"..............:cheers:

 

[scooper77515]

You guys finally woke up?

I got worried that I ticked someone off, because it took over 24 hours to get a response. I guess I am just a little paranoid:ack:

Thanks for the feedback. Kinda what I was thinking, but wasn't sure, and didn't want to mess anything up.

The battery is new, bought it in November or so after the old battery needed a charger on it overnight before all trips out. This one only got weak after sitting for 3 weeks without running, and it eventually did start, but was slow cranking at first. Restarted strongly after riding for 20 minutes, so I guess I can safely assume my charging system is strong.

My fear was that when it first didn't start, I would not have been able to ride again until I let it charge for the day, and around here, after the wind picks up, it is very difficult to ride off the beach, and I had a 2 hour window of ride time. So if it had to recharge, I was done for the weekend without riding.

I don't have the guts to try to use it to start the ski, but I would have no problem doing the 6-minute charge on a disconnected battery.

Again, thanks for the feedback, and hope this starts a debate, because you learn so much from listening to others debate a point.:cheers:

 

[robin savell lloyd]

Scooper, we've all had this conversation a few times about the importance of not jumping the Seadoo's.......This may result in electrical failure due to shorting.......but that's where it ends for me.
I'll have to disagree with DAWG on the jump boxes, because it's the same thing as having two batteries in the boat and using a selection switch to run one, both or off.
The issue with jump starting the engine has to do with the electrical system of what your jumping from. When you hear the phrase, "do not jump start". This is entirely based on the idea that jump starting is done with the other engine your starting from is running. This is where the electrical failure can come from. Because the battery itself holds about 12 vdc, it's o.k. to jump from that battery, with that vehicle off. But running, that vehicle's charging system comes into play with your electrical system, which is now sending 14 vdc to that battery your jumping from.
If you jump start your craft, make sure tha vehicle your starting from is off. Then, you can safely jump start.
Now, I know there will be a lot of debate about this but I, myself have done this many, many times with no problems. I have also used my charger on high amps to get a quick charge for a start.
We all talk about these electrical systems and the damage that can be done. But there not that tempermental. They also have fuese to help protect them, including the most important, the MPEM. There is risk of electrical back feed into the mpem, but hell, you can do that yourself from your own battery while messing with your system.
The last note.........I do agree with Dawg again on "don't be so cheap, buy a damn battery!"..............:cheers:

I also :agree: with louis's statement on jump starting as once both engines are runing at the same time as both will be trying to charge batteries it could cause problems to mpem or any thing else elictronic. but I can always be wrong. as for 6 amp charge for 6 minutes I would think that the battery would have to be very good and drained just a little below its starting ability for that idea to work. :cheers:

 

[scooper77515]

I agree, I doubt 6 amps for 6 minutes would fully charge a DEAD battery, but that is what it says on the box. I am guessing they think it would be used on a just barely dead, or weak battery, and that charge would give it just enough boost to turn the motor over.

Someday, if I actually let the battery get weak again (3 weeks without riding), I will try it and see if it works like they say.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Dead cells....

If your losing a charge over three weeks, then you probably got a dead cell or two. Batteries aren't forever and if you get 2 years out of a jet ski battery, that's sayin alot.
Being on the lake, river or open ocean is no place to take a chance with a week battery.
Take it to Advanced Auto Parts or Autozone and have it load tested.:cheers:

 

[scooper77515]

Even after only 6 months?

When I was at the beach, it would click, but not turn over the motor.

Put the charger on yesterday and it said "full charge" after only 30-45 minutes at 2 amp charge.

I think I need to focus more on the battery contacts. Might be getting corrosion there giving me a weak connection, and when I put the charger clips on and wiggled them to make them connect, I think it made the wire contact the battery posts better making it turn over.

I will be monitoring the battery closely. I don't plan on swimming to shore with a jet ski tied to my waist...

 

[kustomkarl]

Scott, what you could do to is get some spray for the terminals to coat them to protect them from any water getting under the connections and making it a poor connection.

Karl

 

[scooper77515]

That is what I was planning to do. Take the terminals off first, sand them down with something to just scuff the surfaces, then reconnect and coat to seal them.

 

[kustomkarl]

That will work...I forget the name of the product...I even checked my garage shelf but couldn't find the proper name. I know it is red in color and you just spray it on. Bakingsoda/water, works real good to clean the terminals. Than no sanding that way.

Karl

 

[seadoosnipe]

......crc

I use the CRC brand cleaner, which has an acid detectant in it, that turns color if it comes in contact with a battery acid leak, then after cleaning, I use the "red stuff", also by CRC called Battery Protectant.
It's pretty good stuff....before the days of white corrosion all over the post...:rofl:
But I'd also look further than your battery Scott..........I'd look at the other end. Check for cleanliness and tightness where your ground and postive wires come in contact to the starter.
I had a problem such as yours and found my postive battery wire at the starter was saturated with oil (not on my boat). I cleaned it real good and tightened it back down and it worked good after that.

 

[scooper77515]

I will check that as well. Thanks for the pointer:cheers:

 

[scooper77515]

Good call guys!!!

Of course I didn't doubt you one bit...

Plan on using the seadoo tonight or this weekend, so I went out to start it this morning to be sure it will start. It clicked, but acted like it was not getting enough amperage to turn over the starter. It eventually did turn over and started quickly, but seemed like a weak turn over.

I started to mess with the battery end connections, and the ground was almost loose enough to take off by hand.

There was no corrosion, but there was oxidation, so I pulled off all connector, sanded them down with 320 wet/dry, and put it all back together.

I have the red corrosion protectant, so I used it.

Put on the key and it starts right up, really strong pulls on the amperage now.

Thanks for the help...:cheers: