240efi

[celler1]

Ich habe jetzt ein Smartcraft-Instrument installiert.
Die Motorkontrollleuchte leuchtet einige Sekunden nach dem Starten auf.
Der Wasserdruck war bei 0,0 bar, der Schlauch war verstopft, gelöst, der Sensor war noch defekt, neu gemacht, jetzt zeigt der auch den Wasserdruck gut an.

 

[poppie]

Check for spark on all 6 cylinders. Should be strong and blue. Next confirm you are getting fuel to all injectors. If those check out confirm the throttle is opening completely. If this is ok verify the timing.

 

[Tim75]

The throttle valve opens completely, of course, which I checked first. What do you mean by timing?

I agree with Poppie.

Check condition of six wires that come out from under starboard side of flywheel. The old original timing trigger base (under the flywheel) had terrible insulation that would crumble over the years and cause many problems. Check all your ground wires for connection quality. A tight screw does not insure a good connection.

Timing is the synchronization of spark and piston position. Actually not time, but degrees from piston top dead center. If spark occurs too early, you can burn a hole in the top of one or more pistons. If spark is too late, there is a lack of power and increased fuel consumption. While you have the engine running on water hose, feel the spark plugs. Are they all hot? Are some cold? The cold ones are not firing. CAUTION-- risk of shock- 40,000 volts. What spark plugs are you using? Use specified NGK brand plugs. They vary in price a lot. $6 - $15 each.

Are you sure all fuel injectors are working? Are any spark plugs wet with fuel? They should be brown and dry. But if an injector is not working, that spark plug will still be dry. CAUTION-- if injector is not working, you are not getting any oil into that cylinder. That can cause a piston meltdown. In an engine 19 years old, consider having the injectors serviced. Actually removed and tested on a flow bench. Liquids that you pour into gas tank don't work. These injectors are very expensive and worth servicing. My 240 EFI runs great after I had mine serviced. Your fuel pressure is a little high. Should be 36 psi = 2.5 bar.

 

[Tim75]

What I have also tested:
The engine sounds great and starts right away even after key turns, only it runs without power and turns in the water maximum 4000 rpm. I pulled the boot out of the water on the trailer and then once gave full throttle and it immediately turns 6000 rpm.
That’s why I had removed the stator and checked the impeller, also the pitch, it’s an original slope and almost no wear

When you had the stator off the jet, what was the clearance between impeller and wear ring? It should be about .5mm. More gap means loss of efficiency, and higher than normal rpm. If all spark plugs are all hot, that indicates they are all firing. Kind of points to ignition timing. Best procedure is to follow the service manual.

Very bad idea to rev your engine out of the water. It proves nothing. You could disconnect 5 spark plug wires and still reach 6000rpm. You could even destroy the engine.

You do not have to remove the flywheel to look at the trigger wires. You have a newer engine than mine and I believe you have a different timing setup.

 

[Tim75]

So the gap from the impeller to the wear ring is a maximum of 1mm, if that were worn, then the engine would also rev over 6000+ but not build up speed.
That is certainly not the reason.
By the cable from the ECU to the ignition coils you mean this in the photo?
Do you think under the sheathing is the isolation defective? Should I cut the sheath hose?

If you have the old style timing trigger, the wires come out from under the flywheel. Just lean over and look. No need to cut anything.

Just because you have a larger than specified gap between impeller and wear ring does NOT mean that engine will rev to 6000rpm. Maybe as much as 10% higher than normal. The biggest issue causing over-revving is an air leak on the suction side of the pump. That does not seem to be your problem.

 

[Shortrun]

There are no cables coming out from under the flywheel.
What are they for? The engine has an external generator via a flat belt.
I work with a translator, I think we have a communication problem.
Could someone post an example photo of what I should be looking for?

See post #9 for picture that I think Tim is talking about. (he will let us know if I am wrong)
https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/210hp-m2-rebuild-not-starting.114333/

 

[Tim75]

See post #9 for picture that I think Tim is talking about. (he will let us know if I am wrong)
https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/210hp-m2-rebuild-not-starting.114333/

# 9 is what I am thinking about. If you have no wires coming out from under the flywheel, you don't have that system. Different set of problems. Still seems to be ignition timing issue.

 

[poppie]

The timing is adjustable via the throttle control arm. The screws adjust the idle position, spark advance pick up, and maximum spark advance. The throttle cam and tps also need to be set as part of the procedure.