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240EFI M2 motor and jet drive STUCK!

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Bkopsick

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My new-to-me 2003 utopia 205's jet drive needs a new impeller and the wear ring is in terrible shape, I'm talking 1/4" gouges. The previus owner thought the cavitation he was experiencing was "normal to jet boats".... So now that I have it, I knew to inspect the wear ring, and found the impeller is beat pretty bad as well.

While attempting to disassemble the drive to change the wear ring, I had every bolt fight me even with soaking them in penetrating oil for days. When I finally got down to the (4) stator bolts that go thought the wear ring, they wouldn't budge. Breaker bar, 1/2" impact gun, nothing... This dive was in salt water all of its life and by the looks of it, wasn't maintained well at all.. So I decided to explore replacing it. So I got a used drive that had a new wear ring and was in 10000x better shape than mine. Now the fun begins...

After removing the (11) nuts that hold the motor, I attempted to hoist the motor to expose the (4) nuts that hold the lower drive. I started slowly raising the motor but it wouldn't break free... In fact, the boat started lifting off of the trailer.

So, I thought of Plan B. I was able to grind down the box end of a 15mm wrench enough to be able to fit it into the tight spot where the lower drive nuts are. I was able to remove them(long and tedious, 1/4 turns at a time). At this point I have a jack under the drive to support the weight while I remove the (4) nuts holding the drive. When I get them off, the drive won't budge either. I've tried hoisting the motor up a little(the whole boat moves with it) and banging the lower drive with a rubber hammer. Nothing.

So now I'm at a point where the motor is completely unbolted and the drive is completely unbolted but neither will break free. Does anyone have any experience with this or have any other tips?
 
It seems that just the gasket and seals are holding me up. I can't drop the jet drive or raise the motor. What should I do to be able to break the seal?
 
I'm sorry I missed this one before.


OK... you can't get the pump section out, until the engine comes off the top. The reason is... there is an "Adaptor" plate, that does the clamping, and some of the bolts that hold the engine, and adaptor in place, are cast into the lower unit.


So... from inside the hull... there are 11 nuts (10mm studs) that need to be removed, that are all on the same level. (Bottom of the engine case) Once the engine is up... then there are 4 more nuts that are a little lower on the adaptor flange. Once those are off... then you can tap the studs, to get the adaptor plate free.


But... with all the salt... it's all going to be stuck. (As you already know) But once the engine is out of the way... it will start to be easier.
 
Here's a picture of the adaptor in my boat. It may help you see where the engine nuts are. (studs sticking up)

Once they nuts are removed... then put pressure on the engine, using a lift... and if it doesn't just lift up... then tap it with a rubber mallet, and I'm sure the seal will give. With the salt, I'm sure you are fighting corrosion around those studs.

Once you get the engine up, and remove that gasket... you will see the last 4 nuts.




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Yes, you are right on.. I have already removed the 11 nuts holding the engine.. And when I went to hoist the engine, the whole boat started to lift off of the trailer. I even went as far as hoisting the engine slightly(enough to take the weight off) then going up into the boat. Even with my body weight up there moving around it wouldn't break free.

Believe it or not there isn't any corrosion inside the hull or anywhere in the engine compartment.. Just on the outdrive.

I was able to remove the 4 nuts that hold the jet drive without removing the engine. And even still that won't drop either. Now I'm at a stand still.. Ive too busy to work on it lately but I've been soaking the studs in penetrant to hopefully help me next time have a chance to work on it and attempt to hoist the engine again.
 
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