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240 M2- 00' Speedster

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do you know if your buzzer(s) work? just curious if you are getting alarms and don't know it. maybe overheating?
 
We discovered on another thread, that not all boats have the throttle guardian. I don't know how to tell if a specific boat has it or not. Mine is in the driver's helm box, next to the fuse block.

When you stall and restart, does it run at full power or does it seem to be low on power? Trigger coils could be getting hot and failing. They can be checked with an ohm-meter. Older coils had terrible insulation that crumbled and caused intermittent failures.

There are 3 fuel pumps on the engine. The final one, called vapor separator tank (VST) should put out 35 psi at the shrader valve on top of the vst. Obviously, it must be able to maintain pressure at WOT. There is a filter (inside) the bottom of the VST that may be clogged.
 
Had a similar thing being caused by the kill switch. They go bad and start shorting with the vibrations which kills engine.
Mine would happen most when doing fast right turns. Replaced it no problems this year with boat. If you unplug it at the harness and see how she runs.
 
Had a similar thing being caused by the kill switch. They go bad and start shorting with the vibrations which kills engine.
Mine would happen most when doing fast right turns. Replaced it no problems this year with boat. If you unplug it at the harness and see how she runs.

I never thought about that! Any way you can send a pic of where to find this at the harness? Or explain where to look? I obviously see it next to the steering wheel and the "plug" always stays on with the pin pushed all the way in. I'd like to eliminate this as well as it's just another area for the issues.

Let me know on the harness!
 
Tim, I searched high and low for the throttle guardian and cannot find one on my boat. Either didn't have one or previous owner already disconnected it.

Stalls and once come to a stop I crank it up and runs like a raped ape for another 5 mins then stalls again. It's an abrupt "engine kill" type feeling as if it's electrical not a "steady stall out" if that makes sense.

Previous owner said the fuel pump had been rebuilt few years back (I just called him on a last ditch effort).

This leads me to the trigger. I'm going to replace this. After doing some research I found the PN to be 96455A18

So here is the link on eBay. Will this work? https://m.ebay.com/itm/Trigger-for-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Also, what is the darn main nut size for the crank/flywheel? None of my deep wells are fitting and I'm trying to take advantage of this 80 weather we've been having in OH right now!

That is what it looks like. You will need to transfer the throttle link to new ass'y. Be aware-- that affects ignition timing.

It has been a long time since I had the flywheel off mine. Not sure about size of nut- maybe 15/16? If you are using impact sockets, there may be a problem- socket walls too thick. Do you have a Merc flywheel puller? Cheap on ebay, really makes the job easy.

As for the kill switch- do you still have the OEM switch? The rubber on the cap sometimes fails and cannot hold the center plunger all the way down. Also, I believe you can disconnect the wires from the back of the switch and engine will continue to run. Test that on a hose in the driveway. Remember- RECONNECT switch.
 
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I never thought about that! Any way you can send a pic of where to find this at the harness? Or explain where to look? I obviously see it next to the steering wheel and the "plug" always stays on with the pin pushed all the way in. I'd like to eliminate this as well as it's just another area for the issues.

Let me know on the harness!


Wires out of the switch are only about 6 inches long so harness plug is just behind the switch. Come in the back of the dash and you should see it. I replaced mine with an aftermarket one.
 
We discovered on another thread, that not all boats have the throttle guardian. I don't know how to tell if a specific boat has it or not. Mine is in the driver's helm box, next to the fuse block.

When you stall and restart, does it run at full power or does it seem to be low on power? Trigger coils could be getting hot and failing. They can be checked with an ohm-meter. Older coils had terrible insulation that crumbled and caused intermittent failures.

There are 3 fuel pumps on the engine. The final one, called vapor separator tank (VST) should put out 35 psi at the shrader valve on top of the vst. Obviously, it must be able to maintain pressure at WOT. There is a filter (inside) the bottom of the VST that may be clogged.

Thought of something else that happened to me once-- However, it happened at any speed. But, easy check and cheap fix.

On the VST fuel pump motor terminal, (front of unit). The wires corroded loose. In choppy water, the engine would stall. Sometimes easy restart, sometimes hard restart. 20 cents for new connectors. All is good! Careful-polarity of the wires matters.
 
Thought of something else that happened to me once-- However, it happened at any speed. But, easy check and cheap fix.

On the VST fuel pump motor terminal, (front of unit). The wires corroded loose. In choppy water, the engine would stall. Sometimes easy restart, sometimes hard restart. 20 cents for new connectors. All is good! Careful-polarity of the wires matters.

Tim, appreciate the feedback. Is there any possible way to include a picture of this? Feel free to text it to my phone- 419-265-5240.

Thanks in advance sir.
 
Tim, appreciate the feedback. Is there any possible way to include a picture of this? Feel free to text it to my phone- 419-265-5240.

Thanks in advance sir.

Sorry, no way to get pix now.
However, don't give up. Looking down on the engine, port side. There is a cast metal housing (curved, to blend under an engine cowl). Again, there are 3 fuel pumps on this engine. Inside this housing is the final, high pressure pump. 35 psi at the schrader looks like a tire valve. Merc calls it the vapor separator tank (VST). Where the top of the vst meets the front of the vst are the 2 wires for the pump motor. While on the water, when the engine quits, leave the key ON. Pop the cover, put your hand on the vst to feel if the motor is running. Watch for hot parts!

I think you are right about your problem being electrical. Unfortunately, you have the dreaded "intermittent problem". You may have to check EVERY connector. Start with disconnecting each one. Look for green corrosion, or burned pins.

If you don't have the service book for your engine, you have a good reason to get one. Avail on this site.
 
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