2021 GTI SE 170 - Changeable Oil

[BCBoy]

Question about the "Changeable" Oil Quantity.

I have 2 x 2021 GTI SE 170s, with about 20 hours on both. End of the season means time for oil changes and winterization up here in Canada.

I did the all the necessary work last weekend, and when I changed the oil, I got 4L of oil out of both machines. I used the proper procedure of having the engine warm, used a siphon pump, drown mode 3 times, and a total of 4L came out.

The manual says only 3.2L is changeable with the filter, and the total volume is 4.8L. Most people on YouTube seem to only get ~3L out. As most of you probably know, the BRP Oil Change Kit only came with 3.5L per kit...

Wondering if this has ever happened to anyone? Is it likely a case of the dealer over-filling (no faults all season) or did my pump manage to suck out "too much" oil?

Unfortunately, I fogged the cylinders before I did the oil change so I am going to wait until the spring (or at least a few weeks) to start it up and check the oil level. Removing the backplate to re-fog the cylinders is just annoying enough.

 

[etemplet]

I'm not a Seadoo 4 stroke guy but I do know oil. It is best to run the engine after the oil change so that the additives in the oil adhere to the places they were meant to protect. If you don't run the engine you merely coat the oil pan with all the expensive additives. Not to mention the oil system is much easier to maintain its prime when you quickly start it back up. Good idea to run an engine for about 15 minutes after oil change. If I were you, I'd run it a few minutes at least and then refog. In the future I'd wait for Spring to replace the oil. Anyway.... good luck.

 

[xspook]

I'm not a Seadoo 4 stroke guy ... Good idea to run an engine for about 15 minutes after oil change... If I were you, I'd run it a few minutes at least and then refog.

Do not run the ski for 15 straight minutes out of the water. Ever.

2 minutes at most while on the water hose.

 

[etemplet]

Do not run the ski for 15 straight minutes out of the water. Ever.

2 minutes at most while on the water hose.

Agreed !!

 

[skiasylum]

A simple first step anytime we “replenish” are oil would be to do an accurate oil quantity check, warm engine, ski level, etc. We then would have a reference point on how much oil to put back in the ski. The quantity between the hash marks is very close to 1 L. Also be advised liquids change volume with temperature, you should be removing warm oil and probably adding cold. So don’t go to the top of the hash mark with cold oil. The last step in the oil change process should be to always do a accurate oil quantity check before the ski is put back into service. That is part of the preseason prep in the spring. I always leave a note on the seat, “check oil quantity” after the fall storage process.

 

[Coolride17]

I go about a 1/4 inch below the full on the stick (Cold)after a few second to fill the filter also, and when it warms up, it's on the full.

 

[Poormanracing]

Like stated never run on hose for more than a few minutes 2 is a little quick 5 min is max.always run the ski after oil change for a few min get oil warm then check it.also before sucking oil out I like to rev the motor to around 2600 rpms then shut the ski off to get as much oil out then do drown engine a couple times.i like to change the oil before storage to get the by product of combustion out of the oil to prevent any long term problems plus to get rid of any condensation out of oil.dont fill it to the top of oil mark bring it 3/4 below full mark.

 

[ski-d00]

On the full is too full. Half way up the dipstick. Optimal performance is diminished on full.

 

[acooper]

There are many or most Harleys that do the oil range deal, rather than a specific quantity. The most important thing is the "normal running temp" static check, as it says on the ski or in the service manual. Mid-range on the stick when warm, within a few minutes after shutting down, is what they are looking for. You should not ever run it with the oil over full.

 

[ddudley]

Do you own a 2018 or newer Sea Doo with the LinQ ski pylon attachment? I have contacted BRP inc. (Sea Doo) management and board members to approve an additional accessory and investment of adding a seat post and swivel seat to the ski pylon. Would you like to have this accessory and option of the ski pylon as a seat pedestal and swivel seat?

Also does anyone have the 2022 Sea Doo Fish Pro Trophy with the new swivel seat? Sea Doo must have understood that without a swivel seat, with the wave or current action spinning the ski around it could make it hard to cast for fish.

Great to have a swivel seat accessary even if not just for fishing and seems clear that they spent much time on R&D and money on remanufacturing the body shell and seat for the pedestal attachment points.

I haven’t been able to inspect the new Trophy swivel seat, so would be interested to get owners opinions, it looks like there is a key type attachment insert of the pedestal to the body shell of the ski, and a round fit of the pedestal to the seat. I have a question if these types of attachments might have some looseness or play in them? If there is not solid attachments to the pedestal and seat the motion of the water can make this looseness or play even more irritating or annoying? What do you think? Would you like to have the option of an accessory that uses the ski pylon as a swiveling seat pedestal on this Fish Pro Trophy so that 2 people could use this at the same time?

 

[Coolride17]

On the full is too full. Half way up the dipstick. Optimal performance is diminished on full.

Shouldn't effect performance too much seeing it's a dry sump engine.

 

[skiasylum]

• improved oil quality. When oil sloshes against the crankshaft and other high-speed spinning parts, it causes a "hurricane that whips the oil in a wet-sump engine into an aerated froth like a milkshake in a blender".[5] Aerated oil protects engine components far less effectively. A dry-sump system minimizes oil aeration, and also de-aerates oil far more effectively by pumping it first into a remote reservoir.
• Increased engine power. In a wet-sump engine, oil slosh against spinning parts causes substantial viscous drag which creates parasitic power loss.[5][6] A dry-sump system removes oil from the crankcase, along with the possibility of such viscous drag. More complex dry-sump systems may scavenge oil from other areas where oil may pool, such as in the valvetrain. Power can be further increased if the dry-sump system is designed to create a vacuum inside the crankcase, which reduces air drag (or 'windage') on moving parts as well.
• The more oil you add to a dry sump system the more it acts like a wet sump system, milk shake effect or oil aeration, decreasing engine power and oil quality. So anywhere between the lines on your dipstick, the BRP recommended oil quantity, is the compromise quantity between good lubrication and good performance.