2013 RXT X260....heat issue causing limp mode?

[FLgator]

I've had this 2013 RXT X260 (104 hours) for almost two years and always an issue. Runs great when it runs, but after about 20 minutes, the check engine light and IBR lights go off and it goes into limp mode and I crawl back to the dock. Have had two shops look at it and they can never clear it up. Last visit to the dealer said the meter is bad ?, had 13 counts of ECM failure and IBR codes. They found cables to the battery loose and corrosion in the IBR connector. They cleaned things up and updated softwear to the ECM and IBR. Again, runs great for about 20 minutes if I run it hard (long runs at 70 mph, full throttle launches, etc)....then goes into limp mode. I have a brand new battery, wear ring, jet pump, new plugs and oil change too.

Today I tried a test of just going 4,000 RPM just cruising around and NO limp mode after 25 minutes. . I then pulled the seat completly off and ran it harder (6-7,000 rpm's) with NO issues.

Could be a heat issue and wondering if there is a heat sensor(s) (radiator or exhaust) that could be bad? I don't have a manuel, so I'm looking for help in identifying the components that monitor heat. It doesn't feel hot when I raise the seat, but this is my first PWC, so no temperature experience there.

The instrument cluster is totally faded and pretty much unreadable, so if there is some kind of code or warning other than beeps and check engine/IBR lights, I can't see them. Dissipointed in this PWC as being limited to 20 minute rides and no confidence makes for a frustrating day. Thanks for any assistance

 

[jj119crf]

Here's the cooling system flow chart for your ski. I think your thermostat is likely defective, providing you aren't low on coolant or something like that. The thermostat should open @188*F (Overheat alarm sounds @~210*F) and coolant should flow to the ride plate, which operates as a heat exchanger, and then back to the water pump/thermostat.

You can check this by getting the engine up to operating temp and then either grabbing the hose going from the water pump to the ride plate to see if hot water is flowing through it, or alternatively you can just feel the ride plate to see if it's hot. If the thermostat is bad, no water will be flowing through there and it won't be very hot.

There are a couple other possibilities as to what is causing your problem (wear ring/impeller damage, pump bearings, eng. alignment etc), but the thermostat is the most likely I think. Good luck!

 

[FLgator]

JJ, Thanks for the idea and I will test it very soon. I did have a new wear ring and jet pump installed in Feb due to a stick that was stuck in the impeller, so I hope this is the issue. Will reply back with findings

 

[Digdog]

I wonder if your fuel tank is not getting air , next time it slows down try removing the fuel cap temporarily to let air in and see if that helps it.

 

[FLgator]

Here's the cooling system flow chart for your ski. I think your thermostat is likely defective, providing you aren't low on coolant or something like that. The thermostat should open @188*F (Overheat alarm sounds @~210*F) and coolant should flow to the ride plate, which operates as a heat exchanger, and then back to the water pump/thermostat.

You can check this by getting the engine up to operating temp and then either grabbing the hose going from the water pump to the ride plate to see if hot water is flowing through it, or alternatively you can just feel the ride plate to see if it's hot. If the thermostat is bad, no water will be flowing through there and it won't be very hot.

There are a couple other possibilities as to what is causing your problem (wear ring/impeller damage, pump bearings, eng. alignment etc), but the thermostat is the most likely I think. Good luck!

JJ, Very tight back in there, but after getting it to operating temperature, all the hoses were hot except one. See picture...The hose that was not hot is the the T-section coming the very back of the engine. Not sure about the ride plate, but this hose was cool.
How hard is it to replace the thermostat? I've worked on motorcycles over the years, but these PWC's can be a challenge. Thanks

 

[FLgator]

I wonder if your fuel tank is not getting air , next time it slows down try removing the fuel cap temporarily to let air in and see if that helps it.

DigDog, I took it for a longer ride with the cap open and it never cut out or went into limp mode. I didn't read your post correctly, so next time I will keep the cap tight UNTIL it cuts out, and then open it to pinpoint if the lack of air is the problem. Thanks for the idea.

 

[dcm0123]

Had the same problems with a car. It ran ran better with the cap loosened for a couple of months then the pump finally went. This could be signs of a weak pump.