2011 RXT 260 prop came off, now told it needs new engine.

DWinTulsa

Member
I have a 2011 Seadoo RXT X260 with 146 hours. A few weeks ago I took it out and it ran well for a while then died. When I looked in the engine compartment I saw there was a lot of water. I took it home and drained the water out and hooked up my hose to it and started it but I could not see where the water was coming from so I took to a local non-authorized dealer who told me I should not have hooked it up to my hose and ran it so he flushed something out and told me it was all good.

I took it out again only to have the same thing happen again. I took it back to the repair shop and was told the prop came off the drive shaft because it probably was not fastened well at the factory 13 years ago. He replaced the drive shaft and said it he took it to a lake and tested it without taking if off the trailer (the lake did not allow motorized boats of any kind, and he did not have a tank at his shop). He did give me old drive shaft and I could see where the threads were stripped.

I took it out again and it seemed to run well in normal mode, but when I tried in sport mode it died and would not run or even start. I had to have TOW USA tow me back for $250!

I took my seadoo back to him again and he called me later to tell me he removed the oil filter and saw metal shavings in it and that my engine needs to be rebuilt at a cost of $2k+. He told me this is almost always happens when the props come off the drive shaft.

I have Never had any issues with my seadoo before this and now I am out over $500.

Does this sound reasonable?

Should I take it somewhere else for a second opinion?

Thanks for any feedback!
 
Small pieces of metal in the oil filter are normal. This occurs every time the bendix gets jammed into the flywheel. The impeller threads stripping doesn't have anything to do with needing an engine rebuilt. Stripped threads on driveshafts do happen on occasion but isn't anyone's fault especially 13 years ago. I wouldn't trust anything that mechanic says or does. There is nothing you describe that would require an engine rebuild. The taking on water is normal when the impeller threads strip due to imbalance and the carbon seal leaks. Was the impeller also changed? If not, it's quite possible that you stripped another driveshaft. They both need replaced once one strips.

What exactly is it doing? Does crank and not fire? Does it turn over at normal speed? Do you get the normal 2 beeps? Does it sound normal while cranking? When was the last time the supercharger was rebuilt. Need very specific information to diagnose.
 
Hi ski-d00, I just called the shop. He said he was able to tap the impeller so it fit on the new shaft just fine and it was still on the shaft. He could get it to start but it would die at idle. Because he saw a lot of brass shavings in the oil filter he believes it may be the crank shaft thrust washers, but he will not know until he is able to remove the engine and take it apart some time next week. He could not recall it he got the beeps since it was over a month ago when I dropped it off.

Not sure what this mean, I am just repeating what he told me.

I believe the supercharger was replaced about 5 years ago when it froze up during the winter. I remember paying about $1200 for that.

Hope this makes sense.
 
WTH ... tapping an impeller? How do you tap something that is a splined joint? Dwin, I'd run away as fast as possible from this "mechanic."

Thrust washers made of brass? Hummm!

Once that original drive shaft stripped its splines you probably needed a new driveshaft, impeller, and carbon seal. Any misalignment of the driveshaft will quickly damage the carbon seal.

Skidoo, what is your recommendation for jet pump removal so owners can lubricate the driveshaft splines. I know on my skis, I do it annually, but that may be too often for most owners.
 
Thrust bearings aren't really brass but the normal metal pieces in the filter do have a brass look to them. The mechanic thinks that since the impeller came off that it forced the driveshaft into the engine and ruined the thrust bearings. I think he is misinterpreting these shavings which are normal. I would ask him if any metal shavings in the oil filter is normal or acceptable? If he says that no metal is acceptable, go to someone else since he has no clue about the 4tec engines. I suspect he just doesn't have the experience and knowledge needed on the 4tecs and he is about to do a whole bunch of unnecessary work by pulling an engine that is perfectly fine.

He should not be tapping on the impeller, ever. That tells me the impeller splines were chewed up and it's just a matter of time before it strips again. I've seen well greased driveshafts strip and rusty driveshafts strip and my opinion is that it really is more just a factor of time, usage, balance, and alignment than how well greased it is but definitely is a good idea to keep them greased every few years anyway.
 
Thrust bearings aren't really brass but the normal metal pieces in the filter do have a brass look to them. The mechanic thinks that since the impeller came off that it forced the driveshaft into the engine and ruined the thrust bearings. I think he is misinterpreting these shavings which are normal. I would ask him if any metal shavings in the oil filter is normal or acceptable? If he says that no metal is acceptable, go to someone else since he has no clue about the 4tec engines. I suspect he just doesn't have the experience and knowledge needed on the 4tecs and he is about to do a whole bunch of unnecessary work by pulling an engine that is perfectly fine.

He should not be tapping on the impeller, ever. That tells me the impeller splines were chewed up and it's just a matter of time before it strips again. I've seen well greased driveshafts strip and rusty driveshafts strip and my opinion is that it really is more just a factor of time, usage, balance, and alignment than how well greased it is but definitely is a good idea to keep them greased every few years anyway.
thanks guys. I am calling around to other shops now. I honestly do not know how a shop can properly diagnose an issue without putting it the water and riding it, or at least putting it in a tank.
 
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