fastredrat
New Member
My ski has operation has been essentially flawless for 7 seasons and 160 hours.
I considered selling it but then changed my mind and decided to do some pump and IBR maintenance.
I spent time reading the shop manual and viewing the YouTube videos.
I ordered wear ring, cone O rings, cone grease, a bunch of fasteners that are recommend to be replaced and the 4 plastic friction sleeves on the IBR trimming ring. After some minor struggles due to limited access the IBR assembly was removed and I commenced disassembly of the reverse gate from the trimming ring to facilitate ease of handling.
All the bolts have the factory scotch grip thread lock and they can be a pain to remove. The larger M8 bolts require a significant amount of torque to remove for most of the threaded section. They are large enough in diameter to withstand shearing off. The smaller diameter M6 allen head bolts were a different story. The first one broke loose without issue, but then after the first full turn was tight (like the M8’s due to thread locker). I was using a standard 3/8 socket with 5mm hex socket. I was into about the third turn and the bolt sheared off flush with the outer surface of the trimming ring.
Obviously pissed. Not any easy fix to attempt drilling a stainless steel M6 stud out of an aluminum component. Given that a replacement trim ring is $80 and my time is more valuable then hours of frustration I took the more costly but easier route.
Lesson learned and tested removing the 3 reaming bolts – Use penetrating oil (PB blaster worked for me) and an L shaped allen wrench to limit applied torque. Turn CCW half a turn and then CW a quarter turn. Continue the lefty loosey, righty tighty sequence with increased CCW until the bolt is removed.
The CCW/CW rotations create friction heat that aids in soften up the scotch grip thread locker. External heat may also work, but it may damage the paint.
For the record, the ski is operated 90% in fresh water, 10% in salt. Entire ski washed down after every outing. No visible corrosion on the IBR components.
I considered selling it but then changed my mind and decided to do some pump and IBR maintenance.
I spent time reading the shop manual and viewing the YouTube videos.
I ordered wear ring, cone O rings, cone grease, a bunch of fasteners that are recommend to be replaced and the 4 plastic friction sleeves on the IBR trimming ring. After some minor struggles due to limited access the IBR assembly was removed and I commenced disassembly of the reverse gate from the trimming ring to facilitate ease of handling.
All the bolts have the factory scotch grip thread lock and they can be a pain to remove. The larger M8 bolts require a significant amount of torque to remove for most of the threaded section. They are large enough in diameter to withstand shearing off. The smaller diameter M6 allen head bolts were a different story. The first one broke loose without issue, but then after the first full turn was tight (like the M8’s due to thread locker). I was using a standard 3/8 socket with 5mm hex socket. I was into about the third turn and the bolt sheared off flush with the outer surface of the trimming ring.
Obviously pissed. Not any easy fix to attempt drilling a stainless steel M6 stud out of an aluminum component. Given that a replacement trim ring is $80 and my time is more valuable then hours of frustration I took the more costly but easier route.
Lesson learned and tested removing the 3 reaming bolts – Use penetrating oil (PB blaster worked for me) and an L shaped allen wrench to limit applied torque. Turn CCW half a turn and then CW a quarter turn. Continue the lefty loosey, righty tighty sequence with increased CCW until the bolt is removed.
The CCW/CW rotations create friction heat that aids in soften up the scotch grip thread locker. External heat may also work, but it may damage the paint.
For the record, the ski is operated 90% in fresh water, 10% in salt. Entire ski washed down after every outing. No visible corrosion on the IBR components.
