2011 GTI Limited - What to look for?

[KyleW2]

Finally making the jump to the 4 stroke world. I found an insane deal on a 2011 GTI 155 Limited that I'm picking up this weekend (pending in person inspection). That said, I'm used to the 2 strokes - what should I be checking for on the 4 stroke skis or the 2011's in general?

It does currently need work on the IBR system (stuck in reverse) which is the reason for the discount and needs a new wear ring.

Looking forward to making the jump to a newer ski. Thanks everyone for any input or advice!

 

[ski-d00]

You should assume it will need a new ibr which is very likely and costs over $1000. Since you can't ride it, expect to put another $500 in impeller and pump rebuild.

As far as engine running, make sure it revs strong in sport mode but it may be in limp mode with the ibr problem. check all the codes and make sure it is just ibr related. Check oil level, look for leaks, underside of oil cap for milkiness, coolant level, coolant leaks, coolant system pressurizes.

What many times seems like an insane deal ends up only be a decent price on a beat-up high hour machine after you spend thousands on it. I wouldn't pay more than $2500 for it if it's nice and I buy them like that all the time.

 

[KyleW2]

You should assume it will need a new ibr which is very likely and costs over $1000. Since you can't ride it, expect to put another $500 in impeller and pump rebuild.

As far as engine running, make sure it revs strong in sport mode but it may be in limp mode with the ibr problem. check all the codes and make sure it is just ibr related. Check oil level, look for leaks, underside of oil cap for milkiness, coolant level, coolant leaks, coolant system pressurizes.

What many times seems like an insane deal ends up only be a decent price on a beat-up high hour machine after you spend thousands on it. I wouldn't pay more than $2500 for it if it's nice and I buy them like that all the time.

Thank you for your input on this.

As far as price that’d about what I’m paying for the machine after I sell the trailer it’s on. The trailer is a Triton LT aluminum in great shape so I’m hoping to get top dollar for that.

Machine itself is a one owner and the guy got a quote by dealer to replace what’s wrong and it does have the IBR listed as being bad. I can do the labor myself minus programming (too bad Candoo can’t program it). The dealership quote also had the wear ring on there which again I can do myself. I don’t really trust the dealers in this area so I’m going to check everything out on my own before spending any on parts, but it gives me some piece of mind that those are the issues they found and aren’t pushing more items on the diagnosis.

How many hours would be considered high hours?

Thanks!

 

[xspook]

How many hours would be considered high hours?

300+ would be considered "high" by most, but a well maintained 1503 seadoo engine can last well over 1000 hours.

 

[POPPS]

Listen to ski-do and opt. for a non ibr non supercharged machine and save tons of money.

 

[KyleW2]

Listen to ski-do and opt. for a non ibr non supercharged machine and save tons of money.

Save tons of money is relative. They are all overpriced in my area, hell I even sold a 96 GTI for nearly 3K. I’m essentially paying 2 stroke prices for a 4 stroke for my area, that is. Pay more upfront for a lesser machine or pay the same in the long run for an upgraded machine

Previous owner did say it’s not in limp mode. 200 hrs. I go see it Sunday and if all goes well it will come back with me. I know several people who’d buy it from me for what I’m paying so not too concerned if I buy it and change my mind

 

[lamajama]

2011 iS models had sinking issues (!)
intercooler failures were very common
timing chain failures - there was apparently a warranty recall for this so check this

 

[xspook]

2011 iS models had sinking issues (!)
intercooler failures were very common
timing chain failures - there was apparently a warranty recall for this so check this

His model is not an iS model.
It's not supercharged, so no intercooler.
Models affected by the recall: GTI SE 155 30BA, 30BB 3 GTI LTD 155 39BA, 39BB

A call to the dealer with the VIN should verify if the recall work was completed.

 

[KyleW2]

His model is not an iS model.
It's not supercharged, so no intercooler.
Models affected by the recall: GTI SE 155 30BA, 30BB 3 GTI LTD 155 39BA, 39BB

A call to the dealer with the VIN should verify if the recall work was completed.

Unfortunately dealer is closed but the guy is the original owner so he should have record of that. I’ll ask him in the morning. I have read a lot about the timing chain issue. I assume this recall is probably long expired by now?

 

[KyleW2]

Picked it up today. It was in excellent shape and fired right up as promised. No issues other than the IBR.
It has the following codes: U0129, U16A4, and U16A5. I have read it can be something as simple as a battery to needing a new actuator assembly.

First step was pulling the battery and charging it fully. Same issue - should I go ahead and replace the battery? It’s dated 2 years ago.

Next I pulled the fuses and replaced the IBR fuse, same issue. Pulled the connectors off the actuator (man, what a pain that is!). I still need to check for corrosion at first glance they look okay. Will follow up soon

 

[KyleW2]

Also want to add that it doesn't seem like the lever does anything. I attempted several times to put it into IBR override mode and it doesn't seem to sense me pulling the lever

 

[skiasylum]

Charge and get the battery load tested always first step. Probably not the problem but you have to make sure it’s not the battery.
The IBR fault system is very sensitive to both voltage and current parameters.

 

[KyleW2]

Brought the battery in to have load tested after charging it up this morning. Showed 12.6 volts here but the battery tested “good, needs to be charged”. I left the battery with them on their charger and they’ll load test again once it shows fully charged on their end.

Would a bad throttle sensor on the brake side cause the codes I have? Not being able to get the machine into IBR override is making me think it may be the throttle sensor. I would think even if the actuator itself is bad, I’d still be able to get it into override mode(even if it didn’t function in override mode).

 

[skiasylum]

All the codes are CAN communication errors between IBR and the ECM, which usually means when the battery and its connections are declared good it is a bad IBR module. If the ECM can not communicate with the IBR it shuts down the IBR module which probably includes the override function.

 

[KyleW2]

All the codes are CAN communication errors between IBR and the ECM, which usually means when the battery and its connections are declared good it is a bad IBR module. If the ECM can not communicate with the IBR it shuts down the IBR module which probably includes the override function.

Good info, I didn’t think about it shutting down the override function. I threw a known good battery in it in the meantime and same errors. I decided to go ahead and pull the IBR out. All the wiring looks fine. I do have a diagnostics report from the dealership and they concluded it was the IBR module, guess I’m off to the part websites to find the cheapest new one.

 

[KyleW2]

Having a hard time finding a new IBR unit. Spoke with a few places who claim it’s been backordered for over a year which certainly isn’t what I wanted to hear.

Anyone know of any good parts companies? I checked with Westside but they wanted more than new part costs for used parts which I can’t justify yet.

Also - would a unit off a 2012 GTX work? It looks like that model just had some additional parts bolted to it that could be removed.

Also - BRP confirmed that my model was not one of the recalled units for the timing chain issue.

 

[ski-d00]

The older ibr units have been back ordered a long time. Yours is saying it's 6 weeks out but they will keep extending that I'm sure because it was 6 weeks out back in June as well.

If you buy used, it is a total crap shoot as to how long it will last. I've been replacing tons of the 2011-2014 ibr units the last few years.

The 2012 ibr unit should work but sometimes I have to tweak the coding in the ECU to get it to work without errors. You will need to marry any new ibr unit to your ECU using BUDS or similar software.

 

[KyleW2]

The older ibr units have been back ordered a long time. Yours is saying it's 6 weeks out but they will keep extending that I'm sure because it was 6 weeks out back in June as well.

If you buy used, it is a total crap shoot as to how long it will last. I've been replacing tons of the 2011-2014 ibr units the last few years.

The 2012 ibr unit should work but sometimes I have to tweak the coding in the ECU to get it to work without errors. You will need to marry any new ibr unit to your ECU using BUDS or similar software.

I found a dealer with the part but at almost $1800 shipped. Hard to swallow when it’s end of season. May just order from Partzilla just to be in line and look for used units. I have 3 leads on used units in the $500 price range, definitely a risk but may be worth it in the long run

 

[KyleW2]

Ended up buying a used unit. I realize it’s a risk, but it should get me through until the part comes off backorder.

That said, it isn’t giving me any error codes and works fine in override mode. Do I still need to have it married to the ECU? I was under the impression it wouldn’t function at all before being married to the ECU.

 

[ski-d00]

The older versions will usually function okay but it still should be married and then calibrated. You can try it and see how well it works and see if it throws any communication codes.

 

[KyleW2]

The older versions will usually function okay but it still should be married and then calibrated. You can try it and see how well it works and see if it throws any communication codes.

It seems to move all the way up and down fine but maybe I will just get it calibrated.

Good news is the one I bought, although used, is a newer part number - so it had been replaced once before