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2010 Challenger 210 SE Question

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go_panthers

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Does anyone know the difference between the impellers on the port and starboard impellers on a 210 Challenger? The parts diagram shows different part numbers for each side. I took the pumps off to change the wear rings and noticed that the starboard side impeller has rounded "corners" on the leading edge, and the starboard pump has more of a square "corner" on the leading edge. I'm not sure if this is by design, or if the prior owner had the port side serviced at some point.

I do know the prior owner had sucked a ski rope into the port impeller and rode back to the dock on the starboard engine because the port engine had 25 hours and the starboard engine had 27 hours on them, so I asked why.

I have been trying to figure out why the port engine lags a little bit getting up to speed on a hard acceleration. I've gone through the engines and swapped plugs, coils, fuel injectors, oil levels, etc... The engines are running great. I'm not sure now if the impeller difference accounts for the slower port side acceleration (getting up to matching RPM with Starboard).

Anybody know if these impellers should look the same?

Also, are the stock wear rings blue? I was wondering if they were changed when the rope incident happened.
 

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solas and skat track have different shapes, or it may have been filed down after damage. take the impeller off to see the company and pitch.
i have heard the twins have different impellers per side, not sure though.
 
The impellers have filed look. Instead of looking at the impellers I wondering if you are sucking air on the port side. Do you hear any cavitation?
 
The wear ring on the port side is in pretty good shape. one small place with a very small gouge. I'm replacing both wear rings anyway, so that will be eliminated. I ran down to the dealership to get the impellers removed from the pumps, since I couldn't get them to budge with a 24" breaker bar - my vice was too weak. I asked the guy there said "yep, that could do it."

I think my current plan is to file the starboard one to match the port impeller profile and then reassemble with new wear rings and test. Worst case, I buy two new impellers...
 
I ran down to the dealership to get the impellers removed from the pumps, since I couldn't get them to budge with a 24" breaker bar - my vice was too weak.
LOL! My vise would not work either. I just laid the whole thing down on the driveway and used opposing breaker bars. That worked.
 
The wear ring on the port side is in pretty good shape. one small place with a very small gouge. I'm replacing both wear rings anyway, so that will be eliminated. I ran down to the dealership to get the impellers removed from the pumps, since I couldn't get them to budge with a 24" breaker bar - my vice was too weak. I asked the guy there said "yep, that could do it."

I think my current plan is to file the starboard one to match the port impeller profile and then reassemble with new wear rings and test. Worst case, I buy two new impellers...

sorry but i would bite the bullet and go two new impellers, costly but at least you know it will work. filling down could risk cavitation or performance loss.
 
Filing edges to smooth things out is fine. But if you need to file so much to change a profile I think you will get a vibration due to uneven weighted blades. As well as increased offs of cavitation.


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Here is an other idea. Is the power loss on one side so great that it bothers you? Is a driving issue? One my single engine I often have to keep the steering wheel one side (don't remember which side) to get the boat to go straight. Instead of "fixing" things maybe leaving it alone until you can replace both impellers.
 
Yesterday, I rounded the corners of the starboard side just a bit. I used a template I made to ensure I did it equally to all blades. Did not remove much material at all.

As far as what bothers me, it is the harmonic vibration caused when the engines are not synced to the same RPM. Not a huge bother, mind you, but something I want to understand. My Sportster 1800 had individual throttle controls for each engine, so I could sync them manually. The throttle control on the 210 doesn't allow for that, so I'm trying to understand what parameters affect the engine sync computer function.

At this point, my theory is that there is a threshold (say, 4K rpm) that is checked the first time it is crossed after startup. If the engines are within "x" delta, the sync function kicks in and works for the rest of the time the engine are on. If not, the sync function deactivates for the entire period.

I put about 35 hours on the boat the past two weeks at the coast and did a lot of process elimination. That's my current theory.


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