2010 Challenger 210 SE - Engine won't start-code u0100

[bhziii]

Hello,

I need your help. My port engine won't start. Boat stored at Marina. Went to start it and only starboard side would start. Turned around, turned it off and then it started.

Fast forward to this weekend picked it up, started up no problems. Used it all day yesterday for wake boarding and tubing with no problems. Went to turn it on this morning to return to marina and port wouldn't start. The hours are not showing up in the display. I found the following default codes:

U0100 - ECU could not establish CAN communication with partner ECU
U16bd - CAN Timeout or Check sum error of synchronization messages (Twin engine vehicles)
U16bs - couldn't find this one
U16b7 -Port ECU - CAN Timeout error-Missing CAN ID 017h
U16b9 -Port ECU - CAN Timeout error-Missing CAN ID 01Bh
U16bb -Port ECU - CAN Timeout error-Missing CAN ID 1A2h
U1301 -Software / Data compatibility error between starboard and port ECUs

Any thoughts? Sea Doo dealer is over an hour away and my trailer is broken. I am not mechanically inclined but I am open to trying and learning.

Thanks in advance.

 

[pete63]

the CAN is the communication between the ecu and display, also as you can see the port has trouble communicating and sync. i think there is a fuse for the CAN, check loose connections.


better check gauge/display connections as well.


check fuses

 

[bhziii]

Pete,

Thank you for the response. I am going to try heading out to the marina today and have them put it on a dry stack so I can look at it.

Where would the connections be? Behind the dash?

Where is the fuse box? Had the boat for 5 years never had to mess with it.

 

[go_panthers]

When you open the engine hatch, there are two fuse blocks. One on the starboard side, forward of the battery, and another on the port side (in the same mirrored location). There are fuses there. The gauges are accessed from behind the starboard bow seat back (behind a black curtain snapped in place). Lay a pillow or live vest down on the fiberglass, because your head and shoulder will need to be in that compartment to get to all the gauges. The ECU is on the top of the engine. You can't miss it. No fuses there, but two connections to check.

 

[bhziii]

Update: Went to the marina today and go figure the engine would allow me to turn it on. I opened the fuse box and wiggled them around checked connections on ECU and the engine would stay on (showing up in the display). All the default codes were gone.

Not sure what to do now.

 

[pete63]

Update: Went to the marina today and go figure the engine would allow me to turn it on. I opened the fuse box and wiggled them around checked connections on ECU and the engine would stay on (showing up in the display). All the default codes were gone.

Not sure what to do now.

did the port engine start? try starting the engine and power off each time, say 4 to 6 times.
sounds like a loose connection/fuse.

 

[bhziii]

Yes it would start. I was on a dry stack so I didn't want to start it up completely but the hours would show up on the display, but I did push the button and it would have started. I will have to go back and have them put it in the water and try again and then see if I can find the loose connection somewhere. I wiggled a wires and connections in the engine compartment and behind the dash.

 

[pete63]

some have had loose or corroded connectors at back of the display console and/or fuse block

 

[Eclipse1701d]

Open each connection behind dash and in engine compartment. Clean with CDC Electrical Contact Cleaner. Let dry. Dab some dielectric grease in each connector and close.

 

[bhziii]

Cleaner

Open each connection behind dash and in engine compartment. Clean with CDC Electrical Contact Cleaner. Let dry. Dab some dielectric grease in each connector and close.

Will something like this work to clean...http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CRC9/05103/N0439.oap?ck=Search_N0439_-1_-1&pt=N0439&ppt=C0090

And then this to grease...http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CRC0/05109/N0941.oap?ck=Search_dielectric+grease_-1_-1&keyword=dielectric+grease

BTW thanks in advance to everyone for their input. Truly appreciated.

 

[Eclipse1701d]

Yes and yes! Perfect.

 

[bhziii]

Ok guys. So boat ran perfect last week. Went tubing started and stopped no problem.

Put the boat in the water yesterday again no problem.

Then tonight had guest over to take them for a cruise and watch fireworks and as we were getting everyone settled in (ignition key on) both motors ready to start I hear a beep and the left engine disappears from the display.

I checked all the fuses for that motor all look good, disconnected and connected what I could in the engine compartment and nothing.

I am pissed.

Where should I start with that electronic cleaner and di-electric grease? Any photos would be appreciated.

 

[bhziii]

Ok guys. What are these white buttons?

I pushed them in and was able to get my engine back online. Thoughts?

 

[pete63]

yeah connection problem
looks like the sealing plug

 

[Coastiejoe]

I be live they are just the slides that keep the plug pins in. They are not buttons in the traditional sense.

You would pull or lift them to disassemble the pins in the plug.

 

[Eclipse1701d]

Those are your electrical connectors. Carefully open, clean and dab some dielectric in them... If moving them fixed your problem, one of them has a bad connection...

 

[pete63]

Those are your electrical connectors. Carefully open, clean and dab some dielectric in them... If moving them fixed your problem, one of them has a bad connection...

manual says no dielectric grease inside plugs.



interesting was one the wires red/wire (can hi communication wire)

 

[bhziii]

So I have to admit I did clean it out and put di-electric grease before see the above post. What should I do? It has been turning on with no problem.

Now the problem is i picked up a lot of Seagrass and port side over heated. Let it cooled cleared it out and now I get a "port engine maintenance" message when I first turn it on. Feel like I can't win this summer.

 

[Eclipse1701d]

I have been following this advice, for years. I have never had a problem, however, I apologize. I did suggest a little, not a lot. The idea is to create a seal to help prevent salt air from corroding the connectors...

Sea grass is an issue. Sometimes, more than others. We went out Saturday, and it was like the ocean threw up. Sea grass, everywhere. I had to jump out three times, on the way back in. You have to get used to how the boat drives and sounds, without sea grass. If you are cruising, at steady RPM, and the speed begins to drop, it is from sea grass. It is best to turn the boat, and cut the engines. This will help get it out. If it is too bad, you have to jump out and remove it. If you slow down, and your engines are revving, and you are not moving very quickly, that is sea grass, blocking the flow into your grates. If flow is impeded, too much, and you continue to push it, the exhaust will overheat...

 

[Geodoo]

Same issue on 2011 SP210

Just joined forum as I have exactly the same issue on my 2011 SP210 with identical codes. (Note, BTW, that U16bs is actually U16B5 - all the last digits of these codes appear to be odd numbers in hexadecimal)

This cropped up once about 2 years ago and just fiddling with the electrical connectors behind the dash magically solved the problem and it didn't reoccur until today. Incidentally it was just after running the boat fast with tubers for the first time this season. This time fiddling with the connectors didn't fix it so I will be looking to follow the suggestions in this thread. Hopefully the SP210 is much the same as the Challenger. Running in fresh water so it won't be salt or sea grass

 

[Geodoo]

Well what do you know? Went out and bought electrical contact dryer spray - uncovered the boat after leaving it overnight, turn it on, and, without using the spray at all, all error codes were gone and both engines ran fine. Was able to get in a couple of really good wakeboarding runs. Obviously there is a weak electrical connection somewhere but how the heck I would find it I haven't the faintest idea.

 

[bhziii]

Geodoo - glad you got it working.

 

[gb387]

Just joined forum as I have exactly the same issue on my 2011 SP210 with identical codes. (Note, BTW, that U16bs is actually U16B5 - all the last digits of these codes appear to be odd numbers in hexadecimal)

This cropped up once about 2 years ago and just fiddling with the electrical connectors behind the dash magically solved the problem and it didn't reoccur until today. Incidentally it was just after running the boat fast with tubers for the first time this season. This time fiddling with the connectors didn't fix it so I will be looking to follow the suggestions in this thread. Hopefully the SP210 is much the same as the Challenger. Running in fresh water so it won't be salt or sea grass

How do you retrieve the codes from your 210SP with out a BUDS?

 

[Geodoo]

How do you retrieve the codes from your 210SP with out a BUDS?

(Answering without the benefit of being at the boat and having a fault occur) I repeatedly press the "M" button when there is a problem until it shows "Fault Code" (or something like that) and then (IIRC) I press the the other button ("S") repeatedly to get all the codes