• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

2008 speedster 150, no start...will not crank :(

Status
Not open for further replies.

71cuda2

Premium Member
Premium Member
Hi...I'm stumped.

I took my boat out yesterday...son wanted to wakeboard...he said the water was cold...hahaha.

Anyway...got to the river and it started right up...battery seamed a little sluggish, BUT the
engine caught immediately and fired right off. The digital cluster would not come on at all...
first time that happened...it is really sun faded and is terrible to read even on the best of
days...but first time it didn't turn on...I figured it might be related all of the humidity around
here the last few weeks. But the boat ran well...I love how this boat runs... :)

He was in the water for about 30-40 minutes and I shut off the engine for him to get
into the boat...and then??? I assume it was just the battery had died...engine turned over
really slow...then nothing.

Paddled the boat to shore and took her home...hooked up the charger and this is where it
starts to get very odd.

Just to quiet any fears...
I only charge with the battery selector in the 'OFF' position...
I have NEVER tried to 'JUMP' the boat to start it...

I'm careful...never want to fry my memp...

Anyway...

Turn battery on...put key in...get my two beeps...later 4 beeps...
I hear the fuel pump prime...BUT it is rather loud though...
all I hear is a click from the solenoid...it will not turn over.
I try it a few more times and now no more click...

I jump the solenoid and the engine cranks normal...
I try another battery...no change.

I examine all the fuses...all are good...the fuel pump relay is good...

I changed out the solenoid, no change...no clicks, no crank...
I jump the solenoid again...cranks normal.

I take out the start/stop button...tests good with multimeter.

The only thing that is really odd in my book is...
now everytime I press the start button...the fuel pump
primes...Is this normal?? I just don't remember...and
since it is louder I hear it...maybe is was doing this before and I
never heard it because the engine was running.

Thanks is advance...
 
I have just checked out the neutral indicator switch, it tests good with a multimeter...
and I sanded down all the grounding 'fuses' in both fuse boxes...

Next retest all of the grounds on the engine block...
probably be tomorrow on that, I need to get some
dielectric grease to put on those too...

This sure is frustrating... :(

oh...still no gauge activity???
 
OK...so I did find time tonight to dig into the engine grounds, all 7 of them.
They are all sanded down, block cleaned and covered with dielectric grease...
but they all seamed tight anyway.

Still no click, no crank, no gauge indication...in fact it no longer lights up with
the rest of the switches either???

I tried another memp on the engine...just to see if it would do anything...
but nothing changed at all...

Has anyone had their digital gauges go out before???

Is there some sort of 'post' check needed by the gauges to the memp
in the starting process??

I'm stuck...any thoughts?? :)
 
Hi...yes, there is no corrosion on the dess connection or gauge cluster.

I also took apart the grounding bar there too...sanded all the wires and
The grounding bar too...covered in dielectric too.

There are 4 wires that connect the gauges...but I couldn't find any voltage
To light up the dash when you turn them on...not sure why.

Thanks...
 
Yea...I know the starter is ok...

But I do wonder if the gauges offer feedback to the Memphis
Before the ignition sequence...

Thanks again... :)
 
Yea...I know the starter is ok...

But I do wonder if the gauges offer feedback to the Memphis
Before the ignition sequence...

Thanks again... :)

there is a "CAN" communication wire that connects the ecu, gauges etc. there is a fuse for that wire connection.
 
the fuel pumps prime when the lanyard is connected, maybe faulty lanyard connection some where
 
Hi...

I will have to look for the CAN communication for a fuse...

The lanyard...I think is still communicating with the ECU/MEMP, I still get 2 beeps...

I am beginning to think...Maybe a part of the ECU...if that is possible...BUT I have
An ECU out of a 2008 ski that I got when I changed engines out...
When I put that one in I got no crank...but I don't think I paid any attention
To any beeps...

What happens when there is a key mismatch???

Does anyone know if it CAN EVEN start without a gauge cluster???


But I have to finish up my son's Civic first...putting in a new front seal in the engine...
With luck it will be finished by early aafternoon...

Thanks everyone :)
 
Well...just to frustrate me some more...
After I finished my son's car I tried the boat
Again for kicks and giggles...

AND it started right up... :(

So we took it out and pulled my grand children on a tube
For around an hour...after we got home...

It's back to no start...no crank...
Beats me???

But I'll definitely have to get a new gauge...absolutely
Nothing showing up there...

I'm guessing something is loose in the wiring...or corroded...
I'll get to the bottom of it and will be in touch...might take
A little time but I'll figure it out... :)
 
An intermittent problem is going to be frustrating to solve. At least it will not be an expensive fix. Good luck.
 
You may want to open every electrical connection you can find, clean it with CDC Contact Cleaner, and then try again. I had an intermittent no start. It turned out to be the Crank Shaft Position Sensor. However, my gauges (analog) were operable. I also remember you posting something about switching computers. I believe the keys are programmed to the ECU.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top