2008 Seadoo Wake 215 hull drains vs flush ports

[Boater59]

Just picked up 2 of them (package deal I couldn't refuse) identical and just getting myself familiar with all the needs to know. I’m a lifelong boater of many types including twin V8 offshore powerboats. I’ve ridden many skis owned by others but never had squat to do with them out of the water. That said…
I have many hurdles to jump before even splashing for a test run on each registration & insurance aside. I’ll list in order of my preference to tackle first etc:
#1 - They came with two water hose quick disconnects and they’re located on both sides of the “jet” in the rear. Plus what looks like hull drain plugs on both rear sides of the hull with screw in plugs. Well I cleaned everything up including engine bay but water is not draining from what I percieve as the two drains with plugs even with trailer tilted up? Are they the hull drains, and are what looks like two flush ports for flushing? Manual I downloaddd doesnt mention how to use to flush?
#2 - Only one came with a DESS key lanyard. Other could not be found. In my mega youtube/google searches it appears I have to take the skis to a dealer with either after market keys, or purchase from them and have “programmed” to each ski or even program both sets to work with both skis. Any gouge on that?
#3 - Each ski came with roughly half full tanks. Registrations expired 3 years ago so I know I have fouled fuel due ethanol phase separation etc. Besides pumping out the tank, are there any other steps to take to clean out old fuel?
#4 - Supercharger! Also in my searches multiple skits about rebuilding the SC every 100 hours. I’m still waiting on feedback from previous owner on any maintenance history whether it be off the warranty or beyond. My approach with anything used is start from scratch to establish a baseline going forward. Any information, links, gouge, lessons learned on that for this model would be great.

These four would be a great jump start to whip these into worry free riding shape. The hull and seat vinyl are in excellent shape, they just sat on a nice twin ski trailer with extras like covers, multiple vests and spare trailer wheels. Again a deal I couldnt walk away from despite really having no interest in owning one much less two.

Finally they both came from the space coast of Florida area (Merritt Island, so they were operated in saltwater. I’m only scratching the surface of what I got myself into…LOL

 

[ski-d00]

1. The pair of orange quick disconnects are to fill the ballast tanks which apparently you didn't get. These come with a pair of gray ballast tanks that attach to the rear that adds weight to make a bigger wake for the wakeboarders, hence, wake edition. They only made these for a couple years and helped a little but not enough to create a bigger wake which is why I think they were discontinued. The flush port is actually in past the disconnects on the upper left side where you will see a black pipe coming out with a female threaded garden hose connection. Very hard to reach on these models but you can put it in reverse which gives a little easier access. The 2 drain plugs are at the bottom and have a check valve which can clog if the inside of the hulls are dirty.
2. Yes, it takes software to program keys by dealer or individuals with software. That key might be programmed to both skis. You will know by the beeps when attached. 2 beeps means it's programmed. Single long beep no go.
3. Easiest way to drain fuel tank is to disconnect fuel line at the fuel rail which has a squeeze quick disconnect and use a large cup. Each time you put the key on you will get like 12 ounces of fuel pumped out so tank can be emptied in 20-30 cycles usually. Or, put a hose down the fill tube and siphon out but is difficult to get all the fuel out so you'll probably end up doing the other way anyway.
4. Rebuild your superchargers as you stated so you know they are good.

 

[Boater59]

Ok…good start. Drain plugs (inside) could be dirty causing lack of drain. So do I blast them with a hose disrupt any debris? Is the check valve like a ball or something where one could push a long screwdriver or equivalent thru to push the ball out of the way?
Nothing external in terms of ballast tanks. Haven't peeked inside rear looking for them just got back off my boat doing what I do normally. So should I just remove those connectors, and if so what if any repercussions are there?
Right now I have wash/cleaning water I want to drain out. Havent tried the one key on the other yet. Gotta put batteries back in and see whats what. But the one and only DESS key I have is worn and no doubt a new one for both.
Just eyeballed the flush port on the port side “inside” portside with female fitting. You’re right, PIA location. So I have (YT) viewed start motor turn water on roughly 2-3 minutes, water off then couple throttle pulls then shut off. Does that hold true for these?
The turbos/superchargers pending any maintenance history info and total hours, whats the best/economical rebuild kits found for these (what actually are they called i.e. model) I may or may not attempt myself (I’m a long time DIY mech guy).
Other “basics” I’ll get to later once I have bead on gameplan going forward.

 

[Boater59]

Tried the one key I have with charged batteries and one gives the two beeps then one long one? Doesnt do zip on the other.

I’m “slowly” figuring out my approach to the supercharger rebuilds… Looking online for an reasonably priced rebuild kit for this model (‘08 Wake 215) as well as a pretty good DIY YT video.
What is a good OEM kit# to use as reference for to search the rebuild kit?

Today (amongst life’s many come at’cha’s with a family) was able to putz around a little and syphon out the soured gas in the tank/s one more gas than the other (some kind of pittance of progress as I learn these head-scratching machines). Still have cleaning water trying to drain out of the bilge (can’t see the drain plug area from top looking in) while I’m patiently waiting to get new keys programmed (so I can at least start and confirm they actually run) and research the turbo plan of attack.

**NOTE: I have very minimal investment thus far, and was gotten/picked up from a friend of the family in Florida (I live in Va Beach, VA) in anyone was wondering why I’m bothering with this scenario.

 

[ski-d00]

2 beeps followed by 1 long beep is a communication error with the cluster. Does the cluster come on when you put the key on? That means it is the correct key and will start it. Once you get that one running you can always switch the ECU to the other one and use that key to start that one. I would spend as little as possible until you get them both running and make sure they don't need new engines which is very possible so I would hold off on key programming for now.

If you put the key on the other one and it doesn't do anything then you either need to replace the 30A relay, bad dess post, ECU issue, or wiring problem. You should get a single long beep and the cluster turns on if it's the wrong key.
For the supercharger, you need the 420881102 OEM part number. Sent you a PM on this.

 

[Boater59]

The one with 2 beeps then one long doesnt light up the display. If I hit the start button it wants to crank. As mentioned using key on the other gets zero reaction. Guess later today will look at the relays and give a good cleaning and try again. Also will take a peak at any display wiring issues.

 

[Collinwake]

For your ski that gives two beeps and one long one, the display should light up and give your some information (check engine, code). If the ski sat in the sun and weather for 3 years you may need a new cluster. They are 800$ so may need to go to a dealer or someone who has diagnostic equipment before you go spending that kind of money. The cluster has a fuse, check that. I pulled the maintenance manual for this boat off the internet which could help you a lot. My son has a 2008 wake 215 and keeping it running has been a lot of work.

 

[ski-d00]

Or buy a China cluster for $250 which I've done many times.

 

[Boater59]

Yeah I was kinda concerned the cluster may be bleached out. Replaced some back screens on a center console with Yamaha OB’s and LED gauges, worked great and was cheap & easy. Not sure they have’em for these things. Anyway, I’ll figure that out in time.

 

[Boater59]

Quick update on my 2 ‘08 215 project Doo’s.

So I syphoned all the fuel out of each tank, pulled the fuel pump assembly’s, dried and vacuumed out some particles from wasted filters, and pulled the injectors and cleaned all.
One fuel pump assembly was totally wasted as in crumbling including the hoses and wire coating (hence needing the vacuum). Replaced with a brand new one. The other the pump assembly look good and cleaned up and replaced filters, then reinstalled both along with about 5 gallons each of fresh “treated” gas.
Checked all fuses one had a blown fuel pump #10 fuse (wasted assembly) the rest all good.
Fresh oil and filters/topped off batteries with distilled water trickle charged (one tested good the other lesser good soon to be replaced.
Took’em to local dealer (Va Beach Watercraft Center) and had new DESS keys programmed to work on both and seen one had 99 hours with 4 hours since serviced, and the 103 hours with 14 hours since serviced. Don’t know about the turbo maintenance if any just yet. Will have to call the original selling and servicing dealer near called Route-1 Motorsports in Malabar, FL.
Sooo, right now my next investigation will be digging into why the displays are not showing anything? Both Doo’s startup quickly. Any starting points on those would be welcomed.

Rick
Va Beach, VA