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2007 GTI 155 SE shuts off

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DualSportDad

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I am having a issue where I'm riding the ski and it just shuts off. I have noticed I can't restart it unless I remove the key from the post and reinstall it. It's random when it happens but always seems to happen after running for 20+ minutes. I have scanned the ski with candoo pro and there are no codes. One time when I restarted it tho it had a very hard miss in the engine. I brought it back to land, checked the ecm connectors for corrosion and put it back in the water and no more miss. But after an hour of running it does 2 times.
 
I'm on vacation in the keys, ride it today from the start side of Marathon to almost sombrero reef and it shut off. Rode it for a couple more hours and I shut it off when I started it back up it shut off when I have it throttle. Started it again and ran like it was low on power. I shut it off again and safe thing in restart. I started it a 3rd time and ran fine back to the dock.
 
Ran the ski some more last night. A friend was riding it and as he rode off you could hear a long beep like a code was being set. It did shut off a couple times when my buddies were riding it. I scanned it today and there were no codes. It's like the ECU is resetting. If the battery is disconnected on these skis does it clear the codes?
 
DESS post is replaced. I took it for a ride yesterday and it shut off once when I jumped a decent wave. I went over the ski and found my charging voltage jumping around a little so I wired the upgraded fh020aa regulator directly to the battery and have a steady 14.4 volts now. Oil pressure sensor will be here Wednesday.

PXL_20220620_144419753.jpg
 
Went through the grounds today, found the main ground a little dirty so I replaced it. I cleaned the grounds on the engine block, the connectors themselves and the washers and bolts. I also wanted to rule out the 12v feed to the fuse block out so I cut it where it goes into the main 12v feed and the wire was black. I cut it back till I got some "less black" write and soldered Ina new wire and connected it to the battery. I did not replace the oil pressure switch today as my socket isn't deep enough.

I took the ski out for a short ride in some local fresh water canals and it's worse. Ski started running really bad (maybe limp mode?) But this time no matter how many times I shut it off and restarted it it still ran bad. Then after a while it started running better but was still shutting off randomly. Then once I got to a wide open area I let it eat and it ran good. Maybe the high rpm kept the oil pressure switch happy?

Do we know for sure that there ecu will shut the engine down with no long beep or any codes being stored if the oil pressure goes low? Also how do I disable DESS? I tried with candoo and after pressing the " disable DESS" tab nothing happens and it still shows it's enabled.

PXL_20220623_162417528.jpgPXL_20220623_163212907.MP.jpgPXL_20220623_200006558.MP.jpgPXL_20220623_210947862.jpg
 
I keep finding more wrong with the ski but nothing fixes the ski shutting down. Yesterday I replaced the oil pressure sensor, found a chaffed knock sensor wire and I missed 3 grounds on the engine. I cleaned all the grounds and replaced the knock sensor and she still shuts off after about 30 minutes of run time. I did find my rectifier is getting very hot and the 3 phase wires running to it are so hot I can't touch them. This whole issue started right after I fixed my charging issue.

PXL_20220624_164352584.jpgPXL_20220624_195701636.jpgPXL_20220624_195748234.jpgPXL_20220624_200953741.jpg
 
Yup,,,get all your connections nice and clean…if the oil switch is leaking at all,,,it will be an electrical gremlin for you.
 
Oil switch was replaced yesterday. Today I eliminated the 3 phase stator connector at the rear of the engine by soldering the wires together. I was thinking last night about how the ski runs fine then just shuts off. I work on cars and it seems like a similar symptom when a 2 wire crank sensor fails. When looking at the wire today for the CPS I noticed it was chafing against the engine like the knock sensor was. New CPS will be here tomorrow.
PXL_20220625_162142263.jpg
 
Are you checking resistance in the wires when cleaning and replacing connectors. Hot wires and rectifier sure sounds like corroded wiring which when gets hot increases resistance and will eventually stop conducting electricity.
 
All the wiring for the charging system is new. I upgraded to a 2008 style rectifier and rewired the complete system. Everything is soldered at this point. I took the ski for a ride today and it shut off 2 times in 2 hours. I still think I have a bad CPS but I am waiting for it to get here today. Forecast calls for rain later so I might not be able to test it again for a while.
 
Tried to replace the crank shaft position sensor today and someone else has already been in there, the bolt is rounded off and very rusty. Looks like I have to pull the engine out the PTO cover needs to come off..... Maybe both. Anyone have any tips for which is the best way to go at this?
 
You don't need to pull the engine. Try vise grips or the internal torx thread first but you may have to grind/cut the head off the bolt. Then pull sensor out, then use vise grips to get what's left of the bolt out. There will be plenty to grab.
 
I have tried all of that except grinding the head off. I have ordered a set of small bolt extractors, hopefully they will be able to bite into the bolt head. If they can't I'll try grinding the head off but space is limited.
 
I think I found the problem, it was the battery. I changed the battery when I upgraded the charging system. The service manual even states something alone the lines of noise in the electrical system will cause the ski to stall and not set codes.

I put my old battery in and immediately I could tell power was up, top speed was back up. Bad news is I lost cylinder 2. I did a leak down tonight and found 65% leaking through the exhaust valves. While performing the leak down test I found some sand in the intake boot at the throttle body, anyone know if a intake system with a filter that will fit this ski?

Edit: ordered cam and crank alignment tools, hope to have a new head install in a couple weeks.
 
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New cylinder head is here. Hopefully I'll have it back together Sunday and in the water next weekend so I can be 100% sure it was the battery that fixed it. PXL_20220730_004703861.jpg

PXL_20220730_004725487.jpg

Edit: I put the head on Sunday and the ski fired up in the garage and fan for a few seconds just fine. I cleaned out the stock intake, there wasn’t as much sand as I thought. Hopefully I’ll get to ride the ski all weekend and verify without a doubt that it was the battery that fixed my issue.
 
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This will be my last post on this subject. I wanted to come here and say that I have more ridden the ski 2 times for over an hour without it shutting off on me. It was the battery. I was running a brand new Chrome brand battery off Amazon and that was causing the stalling. I put three old die hard brand battery back in and she runs fine.
 
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