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2005 utopia 185 overheat alarm

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JBOD

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I have a 2005 seadoo utopia 185 with the 200 opti Max. I have a overheat alarm going off Any time I add the throttle. I used a thermometer and the engine is running at around 104 degree. I purchased a rinda tech mate pro to read the codes and it has 7 of them
listed : 41 air compressor temp high, 95 port ECT/Head temp high, Pitot Pressure (boat speed sensor low), 82 Oil level sensor high, 75 fuel level circuit high,104 Lake/ sea temp circuit High, 131 trim sensor circuit low. ive replaced the temp probe and I’ve checked the cyl temp probe with a ohm meter and it checks out I also changed the oil pump and fuel pump tracing down this issue. This all started last summer when I was stuck off the coast of Maine with a bunch of seaweed stuck in the intake so I think it did run hot for a few minutes. My first question is how do I erase the codes so I can start from scratch to see whats really going on now. Every time I try to erase them with the rinda they are are still there When I recheck without even running it again.
oh and of course no one will work on it I literally have called over 50 different boat shops in the northeast trying to find someone to help get this thing back in the water
 
Try grounding the postive and negative battery cables to each other for bunch of seconds,,,worth a try,,,worked once on a seadoo 4tec.
 
So good news I finally fixed my boat and I thought this might help someone like me who is scouring this website trying desperately to fix there boat. Of course it was on the last day of my vacation. I finally diagnosed the overheat horn. It turns out it was a bad alternator all along and had nothing to do with the codes. It turns out all the codes that read circuit high are all ghost codes for things that are not installed or in one case for me it was disconnected and weren’t causong the alarm. With the scan tool I noticed under load while the horn was going off the alternator was only putting out 9.9 volts. $120 alternator later and it runs great no horn. The low voltage was causing false codes. One other side note while I was diagnosing the horn my fuel pump failed so I threw in a $60 pump from the local auto parts store that was supposed to be a direct replacement. It worked at first but after the horn stoped going off the ending would die off at high power settings. (No horn) It took me a week to figure out that it was the pump and that the difference between this pump and the genuine one from mercury was that this pump didn’t have a rigid fuel filter. It came with one that attached to the line instead. I purchased a $8 threaded fuel filter that attached directly to the pump Kinda like thw original and now it rms great ( I did order the actual pump for $220 from mercury but it won’t be here doe three weeks)
 
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