2004 Sportster LE DI won't start

[tbusic2004]

Newbie to the Jet boat world here. Sorry about long post but I have tried some stuff and may be creating problems. It was running fine first half of summer after buying it, and replacing battery and some cooling hoses.

Then went into what I believe is limp mode. Engine started and sounded fine but wouldn't go more than 5mph and long beep about every minute. Took it off the water and started it on the hose a couple times and seemed fine and would rev. Did some research and started again to measure voltage at battery to see if it was charging and time the beep, but then it died before I could get the multimeter on the battery. Wouldn't start again and battery was clearly dead.

I figured dead battery probably b/c of bad rectifier or charging system. Charged battery with plan to start and measure voltage to battery. Now, it won't start. Replaced plugs and getting good spark at both. I can spray some carb cleaner in behind them and the engine will briefly start.

So I figure fuel delivery issue now a problem too. I noted that the fuel pump doesn't make a noise like it is priming as it used to. So I order the HiFlow fuel pump in the tech manual by Sticky and installed it. Noted that the washers came out before I saw the order in the cannister. I have it from outer: Outside filter, cannister, rubber washer, metal washer, inner filter, grommet and then fuel pump. May have reversed the rubber and metal washer I am afraid. The darn spring also popped off and disappeared into the engine. Looked for an hour with no luck. Bought as close of a replacement as I could find without ever actually seeing the thing. New spring may be too hard to compress if anything.

Put the cannister back in the tank. Now it primes, and clearly is delivering fuel but won't start. Good spark. Took off fuel injector and it pulsates squirting some fuel when trying to start. I just don't know if is enough or if there is another problem. Seems like gas + spark should = fire in engine.

Problems I am suspicious of:
1. Reversed washer order in cannister slowing fuel.
2. Spring too tight.
3. Do I need to fill the fuel pump cannister with fuel or pressurize/bleed lines somehow?
4. Black cannister fuel filter in fuel line could be plugged. Champion G6384 part number but Google search shows nothing like it for sale. Also, I am not sure how it is attached and don't want to just rip it loose. Doesn't seem to scew off easily.
5. Fuel line problem. I don't have a tool for the fuel line quick connects. Any workarounds?
6. Injector problem.
7. Beats me if none of the above. Once I get the thing to start I still need to check the charging system. I am cautiously optimistic a failing fuel pump was drawing a lot of amperage and killed the battery, but I don't know if that is possible.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Dr Honda]

Unfortunatly... on a Di engine... there no guessing. So... that means, the right tools.


So.....


1) Don't know. Send a PM to the person who wrote the pump swap instructions.

2) Same

3) Nope. The pump will push the air out quick.

4) if you are talking about the fuel filter... it's part of the high pressure hose. It has to be replaced as a unit.

5) Buy the disconnect tools. A plastic set is only a few $$$, and most auto parts stores have them.

6) could be. But you can check them with a meter, or send them out to be serviced.


7) With a Di engine... you have to achieve proper fuel pressure, and air pressure to be able to get fuel into the engine. So... put it together, and check the pressure on both. (I would do that before chasing anything else)


Finally... get a compression check. I don't think it's an issue... but it's a quick test to find the health of the engine. BUT... I do have a feeling all your (original) problems came from low voltage, and a bad regulator. It's a known problem on the Di engines.

 

[Lightningtruck]

Newbie to the Jet boat world here. Sorry about long post but I have tried some stuff and may be creating problems. It was running fine first half of summer after buying it, and replacing battery and some cooling hoses.

Then went into what I believe is limp mode. Engine started and sounded fine but wouldn't go more than 5mph and long beep about every minute. Took it off the water and started it on the hose a couple times and seemed fine and would rev. Did some research and started again to measure voltage at battery to see if it was charging and time the beep, but then it died before I could get the multimeter on the battery. Wouldn't start again and battery was clearly dead.

I figured dead battery probably b/c of bad rectifier or charging system. Charged battery with plan to start and measure voltage to battery. Now, it won't start. Replaced plugs and getting good spark at both. I can spray some carb cleaner in behind them and the engine will briefly start.

So I figure fuel delivery issue now a problem too. I noted that the fuel pump doesn't make a noise like it is priming as it used to. So I order the HiFlow fuel pump in the tech manual by Sticky and installed it. Noted that the washers came out before I saw the order in the cannister. I have it from outer: Outside filter, cannister, rubber washer, metal washer, inner filter, grommet and then fuel pump. May have reversed the rubber and metal washer I am afraid. The darn spring also popped off and disappeared into the engine. Looked for an hour with no luck. Bought as close of a replacement as I could find without ever actually seeing the thing. New spring may be too hard to compress if anything.

Put the cannister back in the tank. Now it primes, and clearly is delivering fuel but won't start. Good spark. Took off fuel injector and it pulsates squirting some fuel when trying to start. I just don't know if is enough or if there is another problem. Seems like gas + spark should = fire in engine.

Problems I am suspicious of:
1. Reversed washer order in cannister slowing fuel.
2. Spring too tight.
3. Do I need to fill the fuel pump cannister with fuel or pressurize/bleed lines somehow?
4. Black cannister fuel filter in fuel line could be plugged. Champion G6384 part number but Google search shows nothing like it for sale. Also, I am not sure how it is attached and don't want to just rip it loose. Doesn't seem to scew off easily.
5. Fuel line problem. I don't have a tool for the fuel line quick connects. Any workarounds?
6. Injector problem.
7. Beats me if none of the above. Once I get the thing to start I still need to check the charging system. I am cautiously optimistic a failing fuel pump was drawing a lot of amperage and killed the battery, but I don't know if that is possible.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Like Dr. H said, you gotta have the tools for the DI engine. To try to answer some of your questions (and back up Dr. H's thoughts)...

1. I am very familiar with those fuel modules. I believe you got the right order of things. Think of it this way - that washer arrangement is just a check valve. The rubber seals with the inner bottom metal part of the canister. I think you did fine.

2. Too tight isn't going to be a problem. That spring aids in the "bottom referencing" of the fuel module to the bottom of the tank. It takes up all of the height variation in manufacturing of the fuel tank and fuel module canister parts. Too loose would be a problem, because it would not be able to fully "plant" the bottom of the canister to the tank floor.

3. Nope, self-bleeding. Air burps through the pressure regulator within two or three seconds.

4. Could be a fuel filter problem. It's a Champ Labs filter, the part number you mentioned. Right now it's a part of a crimped-together hose assembly, and BRP is super super super proud of it $$$$$$$$$$$. However, I have razor bladed the hose to ditch the original filter, then used two Oetiker clamps on both sides. That will hold, IF the barb fittings are cleaned of all oil and the proper clamp size is used. Unfortunately, I don't have the clamp size info any more. You would have to measure with calipers the hose OD after it was installed on the filter and then you could choose the clamp size. Then pull it back apart to slide the clamps on. Oetikers are crimped with a special tool, also.

5. I highly doubt it's a fuel line problem. The DI system hose is not the same junk that was used on the carb applications. And yes, like Dr. H said, buy the tools. They come as a set and are not high-dollar. Any auto parts store will have them. Also, like Dr. H said, plumb some gauges to it and see what pressures you have. This is important. The DI engines are real finicky about fuel and air pressure, and especially battery voltage.

6. It is possible, but I would check the pressures first before spending a bunch of money on new injectors.

7. One thing I will say is that the DI systems are very very very very very voltage sensitive. You probably know to NEVER jump start it, or you will fry the MPEM. After that, check harness connections for corrosion. Open the power box in the rear (over top of the drive shaft) where the coil packs are. You'll see some power leads in there and also a large in-line blade-type fuse. Check it. Mine was green with corrosion. That's the main power to the MPEM. Voltage regulators do go bad, also, like you said.

Do a search on my user name and you will see some of the troubleshooting saga I had with my boat. It was the same model as yours ('04 LE DI Sportster).

Have fun,
Kevin