2003 Seadoo GTI SE PTO boot and bearing replacement

[lmarkie74]

How do you pull the steel and carbon seal back to get to the "C" clip? Not much room to pull it off the smooth face steel.

Any tricks?

 

[POPPS]

Okay,,,bear with me,,,of course you pull the rubber cover backwards,,,sometimes I put a zip tie around it because it tends to flip back…
Then,,,I find the right thickness of wood,,and I have this long pry bar with a 45 degree head and try to pry/force back the lip if the stainless sleeve,,,sometimes I am able to force/push the sleeve back…if the bellow is weak…
If the bellow keeps going back with the drive shaft,,WHICH ALWAYS HAPPENS,,,,,I pull the pump,,.I remove the damper on the end if the drive shaft,,,I remove the rubber boot in the prop,,I separate the pump from the Venturi,,,then I put about 3 nuts and or washers in the prop,,,install the pump,,,of course it will not go fully on,,,you want the right number of bolt washers spacers so that you have enough threads to start the pump retaining nuts,,,the issue being that the drive shaft slides back into the prop,,,then you can go back into the hull,,,force the sleeve back since the drive shaft is secured by your nut/washers spacers,,,I put grease on the spacer arrangement to keep them together when I put them into the prop so they don’t fall out when you install the pump…you can also use crazy glue for that,

Now I know this takes extra time,,,but how much easier it makes the job without the special expanding tool is worth every extra minute,..
Not sure if yours is SC’d,,,just remove whatever is in the way that prevents your access,,,getting/making the right pry fulcrum and angle on the pry bar is the key,,,now I have my favourite pry bar and wood fulcrum for this job.
Incidentally,,,I did buy the expanding tool and it bloody well broke,,so now it’s the pry bar and spacer pump washers…works every time,,,

Now for that bearing,,when you remove the drive shaft,,,the bearing usualily comes out with it,,,no problem,,,for the reinstallation,,,I thoroughly clean the runner boot that holds the bearing,and the bearing exterior,,,,,now since you had to destroy the German ear clamp that holds the bearing and is very thin it fit into the narrow slot that the bearing lies in,,, steal a clamp from the bellow,,,I thoroughly clean the bear exterior,,,brake cleaner etc…no grease or oil at all,,,I put crazy glue around the exterior surface of the bearing,,,slide it quickly and properly,,,and let the glue do its magic,,,use only good glue,,,not dollar store crap,,,you can then tighten the narrow clamp around the bearing collar,,,

I like to slide the stainless sleeve over the drive shaft back and forth to “work the “o”rings” to make shaft install easier,,,I will put my German narrow clamp (it has to be narrow or the bearing will squeeze out,),,,,so,,,therefore you will do a “dry install” of the bearing into the rubber retaining boot,,
After the install of the bearing into the boot with the glue and the clamp secured,,,let it cure for some minutes first,..have a beer,,,,,i will often clean the shaft with light sand paper to help it slip in,,,
Now you can slide the shaft in without worrying that the shaft will force the bearing out of its holder…which is a death blow,,,
Make sure to put rags
under the bellows etc when install the “circlip”,,,..if it falls under the engine,,,good luckl
I may have been too detailed,,,but the technical notions that I use can be expanded or condensed by you,

 

[lmarkie74]

Okay,,,bear with me,,,of course you pull the rubber cover backwards,,,sometimes I put a zip tie around it because it tends to flip back…
Then,,,I find the right thickness of wood,,and I have this long pry bar with a 45 degree head and try to pry/force back the lip if the stainless sleeve,,,sometimes I am able to force/push the sleeve back…if the bellow is weak…
If the bellow keeps going back with the drive shaft,,WHICH ALWAYS HAPPENS,,,,,I pull the pump,,.I remove the damper on the end if the drive shaft,,,I remove the rubber boot in the prop,,I separate the pump from the Venturi,,,then I put about 3 nuts and or washers in the prop,,,install the pump,,,of course it will not go fully on,,,you want the right number of bolt washers spacers so that you have enough threads to start the pump retaining nuts,,,the issue being that the drive shaft slides back into the prop,,,then you can go back into the hull,,,force the sleeve back since the drive shaft is secured by your nut/washers spacers,,,I put grease on the spacer arrangement to keep them together when I put them into the prop so they don’t fall out when you install the pump…you can also use crazy glue for that,

Now I know this takes extra time,,,but how much easier it makes the job without the special expanding tool is worth every extra minute,..
Not sure if yours is SC’d,,,just remove whatever is in the way that prevents your access,,,getting/making the right pry fulcrum and angle on the pry bar is the key,,,now I have my favourite pry bar and wood fulcrum for this job.
Incidentally,,,I did buy the expanding tool and it bloody well broke,,so now it’s the pry bar and spacer pump washers…works every time,,,

Now for that bearing,,when you remove the drive shaft,,,the bearing usualily comes out with it,,,no problem,,,for the reinstallation,,,I thoroughly clean the runner boot that holds the bearing,and the bearing exterior,,,,,now since you had to destroy the German ear clamp that holds the bearing and is very thin it fit into the narrow slot that the bearing lies in,,, steal a clamp from the bellow,,,I thoroughly clean the bear exterior,,,brake cleaner etc…no grease or oil at all,,,I put crazy glue around the exterior surface of the bearing,,,slide it quickly and properly,,,and let the glue do its magic,,,use only good glue,,,not dollar store crap,,,you can then tighten the narrow clamp around the bearing collar,,,

I like to slide the stainless sleeve over the drive shaft back and forth to “work the “o”rings” to make shaft install easier,,,I will put my German narrow clamp (it has to be narrow or the bearing will squeeze out,),,,,so,,,therefore you will do a “dry install” of the bearing into the rubber retaining boot,,
After the install of the bearing into the boot with the glue and the clamp secured,,,let it cure for some minutes first,..have a beer,,,,,i will often clean the shaft with light sand paper to help it slip in,,,
Now you can slide the shaft in without worrying that the shaft will force the bearing out of its holder…which is a death blow,,,
Make sure to put rags
under the bellows etc when install the “circlip”,,,..if it falls under the engine,,,good luckl
I may have been too detailed,,,but the technical notions that I use can be expanded or condensed by you,

What did you use for a pry bar? I have looked on the internet and thought maybe a tie rod (pickle fork) separator might work. The inside of the fork must be no smaller than 1-7/16 (1.4375). They come in 12"-15" length. Wonder if 12" would be enough? I did order the tool. Suppose to get it July 5th or so. Great write up!