2003 Islandia - Newbie

[MarkShex]

Hey guys,
I'm so new to Seadoo Boats that I don't officially own this boat yet. I have been given a great opportunity (I think) to buy a 2003 Islandia with the 240 Mercury EFI. It was left in dry dock for about 2 years without the fuel being cleared out and needs work. It currently doesn't start and the shop told the previous owner that the fuel pump and lines need replacing. If that's the only problem I could get on the water for about $4500. Does that sound like a good deal or am I delusional that the fuel pump will be my only problem. Are these boats prone to trouble?

 

[Coastiejoe]

The Merc engine is a bit of a strange creature. I would be shocked in you need fuel lines. I am betting he THINKS that the boat has Grey Tempo lines which thousands of the Seadoo PWC did have, but boats never did. They have a weird fuel system that is the normal issue with a no start. There is a pump that either moves or pressurizes the fuel (I don't recall which) and then the fuel pump itself. [MENTION=16022]Dr Honda[/MENTION] is the resident expert on the Merc engine. I would NOT buy the boat without an accurate compression test at the very least. If you do buy it not running, it is BEST to assume that the engine is junk. This is so that if you need to spend 2 grand, it is not a shocker and it financially makes sense. I do not know what the boat is worth, but I would not pay 4 grand for a non running boat that needs work.

 

[MarkShex]

I am actually paying 2k with and estimate from the shop for 2500 to replace the fuel pump & lines. because its not running they couldn't do a full diagnostic work up. I was running when it went into storage.

 

[Coastiejoe]

If you search CL ads for example, you will find hundreds that say something like, "It runs perfect, only needs a (fill in blank here), battery, starter, MPEM ect ect. The second most common line is, it ran perfect the last time we used it and then put it in storage..... My point is, you really have to assume the total cost of an engine if you buy it non-running. If it is anything less than that, then consider it a bonus.

 

[MarkShex]

First of all, thank you so much for responding to my post. You're giving me the dialog I need. Now for a little clarification: this boat belongs to my neighbor and I have good knowledge that it was running the summer he last used it. Assuming this is true, would $2500 even be a reasonable price to replace the fuel pump/lines? Is the fuel pump something a mechanic can do without the diagnostic equipment?

 

[Coastiejoe]

I wasn't trying to scare you, just wanted to make it very clear about how to look at a non-running ski/boat. I think 2500 sounds high personally. Hopefully someone that has done it or paid for it to be done will hop in and give you good solid information. I would look up the cost of the parts and then double it. This will give you a clue as to what the price should be.

 

[MarkShex]

No worries. I will proceed with caution on your recommendation. As far as the parts: I'll check that out. I have an estimate for the work somewhere and hopefully its got the parts listed. There is only 1 dealer in this area that "specializes" in these boats and I think they are taking advantage of that.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I also think they are taking advantage as well.. Though it gets slow here in the winter time, I am certain we can help you solve this on your own. This will do two things, help you learn your boat and fix it much cheaper. And both of these are priceless !!! Especially true if [MENTION=16022]Dr Honda[/MENTION] gets involved...

 

[MarkShex]

Is there a reason why seadoowarehouse.com does not have Islandia 2003 listed? Are the parts equivalent with 2004?

 

[MarkShex]

results from being looked at by a local shop

Hopefully Mr. Honda will give his 2 cents before too long.....

the description from the shop was:
no fuel pressure from vst
found high pressure fuel pump faulty, must be replaced before
any further diagnosis can be done.
compression 120/195/120/120/120/120


I found this on ebay for $172.89:
Mercury New OEM Sport Jet 240 EFI M2 Fuel Pump Kit 852521A13

 

[biffdotorg]

That does sound high for the fuel pump and labor. That being said, this boat should be worth $9K in working condition assuming all other things are in good condition. (trailer, seats, hull, lights, pumps etc)

So, worst case, if you are in it for half that in good condition, you are doing good. If you get into it for $2K with no engine, would be a good deal in my book. But that's just my opinion.

 

[Dr Honda]

When they sit... all kinds of bad things can happen. But, if you are going to buy an older Merc boat, you have to be willing to do all your own work. If not... they will get too expensive.

The fuel pump could be bad. But if it were my boat... I would pull the VST, and clean it out. AND... I would check the pump directly with a battery. The high pressure pumps don't go bad very often... but a VST can have all kinds of issues caused by rotten fuel, and the rust that comes with it.

You may find that a good cleaning will get you up and running again.


As far as the compression numbers. The 195 has to be a fluke. 125~135 psi is the normal range. SO... the 120's are OK for a totally dry engine. Personally... I would mix up a squirt bottle with a little 25:1 pre-mix... and shoot a little into each spark plug hole, and see if it fires. Then... re-check the compression.



FYI: The part number you posted is for the "Lift Pump" and not for the high pressure pump.


Last thing... since it's a 2003... we need to know what engine it has. There are basically 2 different 240 EFI engines, and 2002/2003 was the switch over for seadoo.

Offically, the switch happened in 2001-1/2 for Mercury, but Seadoo had a big supply of engines. So... my 2002, still has the early engine in it. 2003 could be either.

So... is the top engine cover (plastic part over the flywheel) round and only coving the flywheel... or is it larger, rectangle, and coving most of the top of the engine?

If the cover is missing... a picture of the engine, or better yet... the engine serial number will tell me what you are looking at.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Thanks for getting to this post. I asked him to be patient,,,

 

[igneous]

Your situation sounds exactly like mine when I stole my merc seadoo. Got mine off a friend for 2k... he got it as a repo and didn't want to work on it so I gave him what he paid it for. Mine sat for years too and I did exactly what the Dr. said, drain all gas and clean VST. The fuel pump you need sits in the cylindrical part of VST tank, not the one you have listed on ebay. - I bought the fuel pump for $400 and it started right up.

That estimate is high, buy your own fuel lines, get the lined Trident one from www.MMImarine.com. The fuel pump and line should only cost you around $500, keep the $2k for other stuff. Like Dr. said, you need to be willing to work on this engine/boat unless you have really deep pockets and know a good Merc. tech that don't mind standing on his head while working! ; ^ )

These are great boats but the Challengers and other smaller seadoo boats are not heavy enough to sit down in the water. The Islandia is heavier and will do better while anchored on windy days. I'll be lookin for a pontoon if the lakes ever fill back up here in N. TX
One other thing, no matter what boat you have, click on the link in my sig and find the nearest non-ethanol gas station and only use that in the boat. It stays good for years, runs much better and will not separate like ethanol gas.

 

[MarkShex]

Hi Dr. Honda. Thanks for replying! CoastieJoe kept me somewhat calm while we waited for you to return! Thanks CoastieJoe! I will finally have the boat in my driveway this evening. I'll get some pictures and info together so you can better understand what we are working with.

I am so thankful for sites like this and the people that make it run.

 

[MarkShex]

Your situation sounds exactly like mine when I stole my merc seadoo. Got mine off a friend for 2k... he got it as a repo and didn't want to work on it so I gave him what he paid it for. Mine sat for years too and I did exactly what the Dr. said, drain all gas and clean VST. The fuel pump you need sits in the cylindrical part of VST tank, not the one you have listed on ebay. - I bought the fuel pump for $400 and it started right up.

That estimate is high, buy your own fuel lines, get the lined Trident one from www.MMImarine.com. The fuel pump and line should only cost you around $500, keep the $2k for other stuff. Like Dr. said, you need to be willing to work on this engine/boat unless you have really deep pockets and know a good Merc. tech that don't mind standing on his head while working! ; ^ )

These are great boats but the Challengers and other smaller seadoo boats are not heavy enough to sit down in the water. The Islandia is heavier and will do better while anchored on windy days. I'll be lookin for a pontoon if the lakes ever fill back up here in N. TX
One other thing, no matter what boat you have, click on the link in my sig and find the nearest non-ethanol gas station and only use that in the boat. It stays good for years, runs much better and will not separate like ethanol gas.

Ingeneous,
Thanks for the tips. I need all the help you can spare....

 

[MarkShex]

Here are pictures from the 2003 Islandia that sat with fuel in the lines for several years...

 

[Dr Honda]

Wellllll............


As you can see... it's not a 240 EFI. (as you said in the first post) It's a 250 DFi. (Optimax) It's a totally different beast, and all the advice above is irrelevant. First of all... it does waste time... but more importantly... it may have changed the original advice we gave, on buying the boat. The 250 DFi is a good engine, but the parts are even more expensive. And in opposition to my quote above on "The high pressure pumps don't go bad very often." Well... that now changes to ... "Yes, the pump could be bad from sitting." The reason is... on this engine... you need around 100 psi of fuel pressure. So... the pump could be churning, but not putting out enough pressure to run.


You need to put your hands on a manual, and just start going down the list of things to check.

1) Compression
2) Fuel pressure
3) air pressure
4) Spark.


If it's been sitting... you may get lucky, and find that the belt is broken, and you don't have any air pressure.

 

[Dr Honda]

Is there a reason why seadoowarehouse.com does not have Islandia 2003 listed? Are the parts equivalent with 2004?

I missed this one before.

Yes, there is a reason. Seadoo and Mercury parted ways... and seadoo stopped supporting them back in 2006. SO... if you need parts for the drive... you have to go though a Merc dealer.

ALso... since it's a 12 year old boat... seadoo doesn't support most of the replacement parts. (since they realy didn't make much of it other than the hull) THe engine is Merc... the steering and controls are Telleflex... the electronics are Carling or Gest... the fixtures are southco.... the cooler was Iggloo... the potty was Dominic.......... And so on.


But yes... the 2003 is going to be close to the 2004 for the "Hard parts". (handles, seats, hardware, ect) But, I bet if you try to actually order a part... it won't be available. (from seadoo)

 

[MarkShex]

Thanks Doc. Yes, I'm not sure how I got mixed up on the 240 EFI vs. the 250 DFI. I'm looking at this manual from boatinfo website. I'm assuming it's the correct one....

 

[MarkShex]

Dr. Honda,
I got the boat checked out by a mercury mechanic and he fixed it much cheaper than that previous estimate. He cleaned the vst tank and the lines and it started up. but now the oil light on the fuel gauge is coming on along with the intermittent beeping. The main oil reservoir is almost full. any ideas?

 

[steenbeen]

I had that problem after winter storage, and the issue was a stuck oil level sensor in the oil tank that sits on the engine.

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep...

It could be a simple stuck float. But make sure there is oil in the tank.


Also... on the Seadoo's... the "Oil" light isn't really an oil light. It should have a bell icon, and it's a generic warning. (like the check engine light in your car) SO, you may need to have someone with a scanner to plug into the ECU and read the fault.

 

[MarkShex]

Thanks. I had a mechanic replace the oil sensor and no more beeping! But none of the gauges are currently working. I'm trying to diagnose where the problem is. We did think that the fuel sensor might be bad too but tach and speed aren't working either. I'm not sure where to start looking. All the connections seem good.

 

[Dr Honda]

I would grab a meter, and get behind the helm. There are some fuses to check... but you can pull the plug on the back of the gauges, and make sure they have power.