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2003 GTI LE RFI Hard Starting

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bfairweath

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Hello everyone. Bought a 2003 GTI LE RFI a few weeks ago. I'm new to PWC, but know my way around Bombardier products via Ski-Doo snowmobiles.

The problem I'm having is very hard starting in the water. Starts and runs fine on the trailer with or without the hose. I did check the compression before I bought it. Both cylinders were about 130. I know, a bit low but both sides were exactly the same and my compression tester is not top of the line. When I can get it started, it runs great. Runs up to 7200 RPM - about 55 MPH. But, when I shut it off, it won't restart.

Plugs are wet after cranking and no start. However, when I did get it started yesterday and ran around the lake wide open for about 15 minutes, I pulled the plugs and the ground electrode had a white crust on it (brand new plugs). Water in the combustion chamber?

It will occasionally sputter while cranking. When I can get it started after a lot of cranking, seems like it belches out a cloud of white smoke (again, water in combustion chamber?). Engine has 180 hours on it. Seemed quite low to me, but some of the posts here say I might be approaching a top end rebuild. 180 hours would be nothing on a Ski-Doo snowmobile. You'd be at 8000-10,000 miles before thinking about doing a top end. I have a Ski-Doo with 8500 miles on it and has 150# of compression. Apparently, these Sea-Doo's are a different animal.

I've been searching this forum and reading the service manual. I've tried:

- New plugs. Old ones were pretty new but gap was really tight. Way less than 0.020"
- Pulled the fuel rail and injectors and ran the fuel pump (by plugging in the fob). No leakage. I was thinking the wet plugs after cranking was signally flooding from leaking injectors.
- Checked the resistance on all the engine management components per the service manual. All in spec.
- Checked the rotary valve clearance. Good - about 0.010".
- Haven't checked the fuel pressure yet. Built a test apparatus for 5/16" fuel line (this forum and others said that's what it should be). It's actually 3/8" so I have to get some more fittings. Interestingly, there's a Schrader valve in the fuel line. The service manual makes no mention of this. The Schrader valve has a label on it that says something like "This test port should only be accessed by a Bombardier technician..." so it's a Sea Doo part but maybe not stock for this model.
- Pulled one of the RAVE valves to look at the piston skirt. I do see some scoring but not horrible. The piston dome does have some carbon build up so there are not excessive amounts of water entering the combustion chamber. Incidentally, the RAVE valve was covered in oily sludge.
- I have a cheapo borescope that I stuck down the plug holes. I can see some minor scoring on the walls, but I can also see crosshatching. There also looked like there was some rust on the cylinder walls.

Any ideas? Am I looking at a top end? Anything I should try before going down that road? Hard for me to believe that's necessary when it runs so well at WOT when I can get it started. Replace/rebuild injectors?
 
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Do a compression check using a reliable gauge first off. Next move onto fuel pressue then you migh want to check the rotary valve or cover for wear or deformation. Good Luck
 
How sensitive are these things to the battery? I've read the RFI thread and it seems like they're pretty sensitive. Previous owner said the battery was new. I did check the voltage with the engine off while troubleshooting last weekend (12.3 volts) and with it running (~13.5 volts) so I don't think I have a rectifier problem.

Reason I'm asking is that I took the battery home because I noticed that the cells were really low on electrolite - like 1/2 to 3/4 low (only 1/4 full in some cases). Filled the cells with distilled water and charged. It took over 10 hours to charge (with an automatic 2 amp charger). Now I have 12.6 volts.

Can't imagine the 0.3 volts makes that much of a difference, but I'm thinking the amperage output must have been way low with the cells so low on electrolite. It did seem to crank okay so I wasn't thinking battery but might contribute to the issue with it starting fine on the trailer but starts really hard in the water and runs great when I can get it started.

What do you guys think? I won't be able to test it until next weekend. I have a new compression tester on it's way to test that again as well.
 
They are sensitive to voltage but you didn’t check it completely.

You also need to check voltage when cranking (shouldn’t drop below 12.0V) and at 4,500 rpm (should be between 13.5-14V).
 
I did test once while cranking on the trailer. I wouldn't call it a good test (meaning I only cranked it for a couple seconds). It did go below 12 (barely - 11.8 maybe). I would imagine it would have gone way below 12 if cranking with it in the water due to the extra load.

Maybe I'm on to something here....

I just don't want to accept that this thing needs a top end rebuild when it runs so well once started. I do have all the fittings now to test the fuel pressure too. Next weekend...
 
Can you post pics of the plugs?,,,The initial voltage after riding should be at least 12.6 volts,,,12.3 is low,,,yes,,,the injected doos are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations.,,since uou messured the rv clearance,,,then we assume the rv and rv case are in good shape,,not scored as templet suggested,,,,white spots on the plugs usually indicate water injestion,..
 
I'm fairly confident the RV is okay. I did spin it around a couple of times while I was checking the gap and it looked okay. No scoring. I didn't take the cover off so I don't know it's condition for sure.

I'll take some pictures of the plugs this weekend. I inspected them several times, but didn't take any pictures. I do suspect water infiltration may be a problem. Big cloud of white smoke one of the times I got it started and there were white spots on the plugs one of the times I checked them.

New compression tester arrived today....
 
Not sure what to make of this thing. I'm up at the lake doing testing.

First thing I did was top off the battery and put it in the lake (the Doo, not the battery) without changing anything else. Started right up no problem. Ran around the lake for about 10 minutes and came back to the launch. Shut it off and tried to restart. It started hard but I was eventually able to get it started. Seems like if I hold the throttle about half way open while cranking, it will sputter and eventually start. Again, runs fine when started. Idles perfect at about 1700 RPM.

We've been using it all weekend. Sometime it starts right up, sometimes it sputters and I have to get on the throttle to get it going. One interesting thing - I can only get about 6800 RPM out of it now. I was able to get the full 7200 a few weeks ago. One other thing - it seems to hesitate alot around 4500 RPM. If I keep on the throttle, it will take off about at about 5000 RPM (RAVE valves activating maybe?)

Here's a picture of the plugs. Last time I ran it, I noticed some white spots. Now, I would consider this picture normal. Maybe a little rich. Plugs are almost brand new. They maybe have two hours on them. The previous owner was not running SeaDoo synthetic. He filled the tank before I picked it up. Thanks very little. I'm going to drain it and refill with synthetic when I find a easy way to do it.
IMG_2026.jpg

I also tested the compression with my new OTC Deluxe Compression Tester. 150 psi on both cylinders (engine warmed up, both plugs out, throttle wide open).

I also tested the fuel pressure. 58 psi with the pump running. It decays to about 52 after the pump stops.

Any ideas on other things to try or look at? I'm thinking maybe rebuild (send to fuelinjectorguy.com) or replace the injectors. It seems usable the way it is. Maybe I should leave well enough alone. I just feel like a fuel injected engine should start right up without having to work the throttle. It's acting like one of my carbureted snowmobiles.
 
I would start by changing tot he correct oil and change the oil filter.

Next I would change the two fuel filters in the tank.
 
I did buy a new oil filter but didn't tackle changing it last weekend. I suppose I could let the oil drain from the tank out the hose that goes to the inlet of the filter while I'm changing it. I already have the synthetic oil (the SeaDoo/SkiDoo dealer in my area sells bulk synthetic injection oil - $38/gal vs $52/gal).

I also ran the gas down to the "low fuel" warning level. The gas was mostly whatever the previous owner had in it. I did put 5 gal of non-ethanol in when I first bought it. I have been thinking old gas or water in the gas may be contributing.

I might get one more shot at troubleshooting this season. It already felt a bit like fall this past weekend here in NE Wisconsin. The two fuel filters might have to be be the first thing I do next season. It looks like a real b*** to get the fuel pump assembly out of the tank on this one, but I agree it has to be done. I'll bet it's never been done.

I have to tackle changing the jet pump oil in the next month or so too. Bet that hasn't been done in a long time either.
 
Continuing to run it lean from dirty filters will ruin the engine. So many engines have died this way.
 
Hi, I think you really need to check your ground cable as that’s what feeding you the amps.
check the connection is tight, not corroded and make sure you are using a star washer and not locating ground on a painted surface.
hope this help you out
Cheers
Jason
I did test once while cranking on the trailer. I wouldn't call it a good test (meaning I only cranked it for a couple seconds). It did go below 12 (barely - 11.8 maybe). I would imagine it would have gone way below 12 if cranking with it in the water due to the extra load.

Maybe I'm on to something here....

I just don't want to accept that this thing needs a top end rebuild when it runs so well once started. I do have all the fittings now to test the fuel pressure too. Next weekend...
 
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