2003 Challenger X W /250 Opti

[svtjoe98]

Hey guys,

I've been a member here for a while. I just got back into a Jet boat (previously had a 97 Speedster, Yammy LX2100, S150, S200)..

I recently purchased a low hour (I think it sat for the last 5-7 years)..engine starts on first click. Interior was trashed from FL sun..and the black hull needed a quick sand and buff (looks great..with almost zero nicks).

I fired it up for a second while on the trailer... I hooked up the water source on the flush port and immediately noticed the bilge filling with water. I turned off engine and inspected where the water is coming from. It turns out there is a chunk missing on the bottom of the flush port (where the hose barb x threaded part screws in).

I ordered a Challenger X manual to see if I could get a Optimax cooling diagram. Unfortunately, this isn't the manual I need. It looks like I'll have to create another flush port to inspect if water can even pass through the cooling passages. I bought the boat because the engine purred great and it fires up every time. I was able to get the interior completely redone as well for a reasonable price. I am hoping I don't have to get a new Optimax engine due to the cooling lines being blocked. It is a South Florida boat and was used in Salt water..but the condition and originality of the boat tells me it sat and sat for a while...with low hours.

Thoughts on where I can "T" into the cooling system to see if I can get water coming out of the jet..or the Pee hole?? (I think this boat has a outboard type Pee hole..correct?

Thanks!
Joe

 

[Dr Honda]

I'm traveling for work today... but I will try to give it a look over tonight for you.

BUT....

Even if you put the flush hose somewhere else... you will need to fix where the hose fitting is now. Otherwise, water will just come out there, and sink the boat.

Post a pic of the damage if you get a chance.

 

[svtjoe98]

Thanks! I have ordered the opti 250 jet manual. It should arrive next week. I will Marine-Tex the area where the old flush port is. That should block off that area. I will try to get a pic of what I am seeing down there. The adapter piece (barb) was still screwed into hole, but the bottom of the housing seems to be missing (not a huge chunk).

I can T in somewhere... I'll send a pic of my engine and maybe we can identify if there is a thermostat in this engine. I think I saw one towards the port stern side.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[svtjoe98]

Here's what we have. I could feel the small opening in the flush
port towards the front of the engine. Obviously this is a South Florida boat that sat... . Engine does fire right up with no alarms.. I do need to get water going to it before I drop it in the water this week. Any thoughts on the easiest way to do this? I see the small pee hole out the back..but I want to make sure I get water coming out of the jet with the hose before I launch the boat and get the overheat alarm due to no water.. I could add a hose barb "T" somewhere in the system to get water flowing...

Thanks,
Joe

 

[Dr Honda]

Sorry.... I forgot about this one.


Anyway... the original thought about moving the flush port is irrelevant now. Your adaptor plate is rotten, and needs replaced. Unfortunately... it's not going to be easy... and I'm sure you will find other issues as you dig into it. Basically... the engine has to come out, and that plate needs removed. Since it's corroded so badly... I'm sure nothing will move easy. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

 

[svtjoe98]

Thanks for your reply. Bad news indeed. I see many adapter plates for sale for the 240. Will that one work? Any idea where to find the adapter plate for the 250? I've pulled engines before.. but a outboard jet is new to me.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[Dr Honda]

Nope... the 240 and smaller sport jets are based off the 2.5L Merc Outboard. The 250 is the 3.0L engine. So, the pump and adaptor flange is different.

Assuming that the bottom of the engine isn't too badly corroded... you basically...

1) Remove the 10 nuts around the flange.
2) Remove the throttle cable(s)
3) Remove the oil and fuel hoses.
4) Disconnect the umbilical cord.
5) Lift.


I can get a Merc engine out of a boat faster than a SeaDoo Rotax. If you have a hoist and the lifting eye... AND if the holes in the flange are swollen tight with corroded aluminum... it will just pop out. but, after seeing that flange... I'm guessing it's going to be rough. SO... I would get the nuts off, and then soak everything at the flange with PB Blaster, and let it sit for a day. That will help break the corrosion. At that point... you will put tension on the engine... and then start tapping around the flange. Eventually it will give way.

 

[svtjoe98]

Thanks for the tips on engine removal. I'm sure I'll have to buy a new plate.. can't seem to find a used on eBay. I'm taking it to a shop on Monday's to read the hours and check all compression. Hopefully engine is healthy.

Cost of adapter plate is around $800. If I pay to have this job done.. what's a fair price to pay? $3k?

Thanks again,
Joe

 

[Dr Honda]

Probably. I would hope it would be less... but knowing that they will have to fight the corrosion... it may take a couple hrs.

 

[svtjoe98]

Dr. Honda,

They are looking at the compression and hours tomorrow. Hopefully I can find out if the engine is healthy. I also see that the adapter plate in early Merc's is prone to corrosion (even the used 240 units being sold on ebay don't look great).

I see how the adapter plate bolts to the engine and the pump. I see how the flush fitting forces water up through the engine..question is.. how does the raw water come into the engine? I know down by the pump I see small holes just aft of the impeller.. is that the water intake? Do those small holes feed through the adapter plate and up through a cavity in the engine?

Best price I found on the adapter plate is $880. I just hate to have the engine out and adapter replaced just to find out that the pump is all messed up. If pump is shot. Tines, tunnel and impeller looks to be in fine shape (boat was confirmed to be on a lift for entire life..but obviously it wasn't looked after). As mentioned before..batteries were original from 2002. With new batteries it fired right up. I should know more about hours and run time tomorrow.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[svtjoe98]

Is this the part number for the adapter plate for the 250?
880041A - it says "cover".

Thanks,
Joe