2002 seadoo gtx 4 tec questions?

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Cassmanbearcat

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just bought this seadoo not running for super cheap, 250hrs, guy said had broken rod not sure what that meant im assuming the piston rod any one with advice tell me,,,thanks ,,,,

been reading that these have 155 hp but my boat reg from him says its 150hp? the manuel says it can have a 5573 5574 5593 5594 engine how do I tell what kind my has in it? I see motor plate is on front right of motor I looked at it but it did not have these numbers on it.

im going tear in the motor myself cause it cost to much to have dealer look at it, all I have is owner manuel so im going order a repair manuel so I will know more about the motor and how to tear it apart...

whats the first thing I should do on tearing in to it? take the head off? im been reading and some say see if the motor will turn over first as a sign if it will that's good and if it don't then that's bad, but im scared to do that afraid I might tear something else up what do you think?
guy said it would turn over but battery is dead got it on charger now.
 
Check oil first. If you have oil, pull the spark plugs. Look at them. Are they smashed, steam cleaned ect ect. Leave them out. See if it will crank? If not, what does it do? Try, just click, ect ect.

Tells us these things then we will guide you based in your answers.
 
oil check half full,
pulled plugs they look brand new, had little oil on first one pulled, the middle one had little more oil on it, and the last plug had just small amount oil on it also?

tried the to start and the engine did nothing, no click click nothing, when I push start button sounds like I hear power going to starter but starter doesn't engage,,,, there is two constant beeps whole time, beep beep pause beep beep pause
 
The beeps are normal; it's the ski telling you you have battery power going to the MPEM, and if you leave the key on the DESS post, it will drain your battery.

Do you have voltage to the starter when you press the start button?

Have you had the battery tested?
 
battery didn't have enough juice, charged it and it cranked fine only let it crank one time cause im scared to mess something else up, but thats a plus it cranked correct...

edit- it shot two of the spark plug tubes things out in yard and third was about half way out of tube hole
 
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Sorry, "spark plug tube things"? Post a picture plz.

I mailed that item today. You should have it in a day or two.
 
Sorry, "spark plug tube things"? Post a picture plz.

I mailed that item today. You should have it in a day or two.

ya, I pulled the plugs last night, had no battery with full charge, so I stuck the spark plug tubes that fit down over the plugs back in the plug holes to keep anything from getting down the spark plug holes, today when I had good full charge I forgot they was in there didn't even think about them, when I hit the start button it shot them out like I said above, meaning I think that I got real good compression in two of the cylinders and some still in the other, but im no expert at all,, need help and advice from the experts...on what I should do next . thanks

edit thanks for the mail drop,,,
 
The items you described are your ignition coils. Good idea to keep foreign objects out of the cylinders; bad that you forgot the coils were still in there when you cranked it. Let's hope you didn't damage them.

Ok Next step. take that battery to your local auto parts store and have them test it. There should be a sticker that lists the cold cranking amperage (CCA). If the battery is good, the next thing you'll need is a compression tester. When you get the manual I sent, and only after you've read the instructions, perform a compression test and the leak down test (special tester required). Post the results.
 
Don't mess around with a broken rod. Get a manual for those engine and pull it. Make sure none of the inside is damaged otherwise it's a new crankcase.
 
ok did compression test, if I let it turn over one time from front to back was 65 70 70, if I let it turn over twice they was 100 105 100, I thought first ones was awful low that's why I let it turn over twice to see what it would do...which one is the proper reading?

edit-- after proper test from member on here it is 150 155 130 thanks for the Great help,,,


The items you described are your ignition coils. Good idea to keep foreign objects out of the cylinders; bad that you forgot the coils were still in there when you cranked it. Let's hope you didn't damage them.

Ok Next step. take that battery to your local auto parts store and have them test it. There should be a sticker that lists the cold cranking amperage (CCA). If the battery is good, the next thing you'll need is a compression tester. When you get the manual I sent, and only after you've read the instructions, perform a compression test and the leak down test (special tester required). Post the results.
 
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so to do a leak test said I need this (P/N 529 035 820 which says is impeller tool to rotate crank shaft? says to remove drive shaft first? why? is this so I can rotate crankshaft with the impeller tool? I thought impeller is what turns drive shaft which turns crankshaft if I do this then how will the impeller tool work to rotate crankshaft? am I all wrong about this? what am I missing,,, thanks


edit---the motor has a caathudd caathudd knock when turning over so I will read up on how to remove motor and tear into it to see what can find.....
 
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