I got my ski out of storage and it seemed to idle fine on the waterhose so I put her in the water. She idled fine out the channel and at low RPM, then I got to WOT for about 2 minutes and it just died. It is able to restart and idles rough like it is going to die, and will die if I give it gas or sometimes just dies while idling. No codes or MAINT light came on. Later that day, I changed the plug to some used ones on hand and it did the same thing. Started and idled fine and then once I got in the water, it did the same thing, dying out after running good for a few minutes. I got new NGK plugs and the same thing happened all over, and I only ran at half throttle, never at WOT. Still no MAINT lights or nothing. I was going to check the fuel filter, but it has meatl clamps and is inline. My dealer sells only the entire hose/filter assembly from tank to the DI rail for like $100 bucks, so I am not sure how to proceed. Plugs look fine. I did find out the dealer did not replace my plugs last fall when they winterized it, so I wonder if they did anything. Could bad gas cause this issue? Any thoughts on where I may start for troubleshooting? Thanks.
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2002 GTX DI running/stall issue
- Thread starter jdogg6
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Bad Gas
Does anyone have any ideas about what could be causing this problem? What about bad gas? Are the stalling problems symptoms of bad gas? Or could it be the fuel filter? Would the MPEM shut down the engine without going into limp mode or giving a MAINT light or anything?
Does anyone have any ideas about what could be causing this problem? What about bad gas? Are the stalling problems symptoms of bad gas? Or could it be the fuel filter? Would the MPEM shut down the engine without going into limp mode or giving a MAINT light or anything?
oceanrider
New Member
I had a similar issue last year with my 2001 GTX DI. Same symptoms, engine rough and vibrating. I replaced the fuel filter ( some special pliers are needed for the special clamps), cleaned the RAVE valves, new spark plugs, but nothing helped. Problem seemed to be worse in the water than out. Then I ran a diagnostic at the dealer and it was a defective injector. According to the manual, you have replace both at the same time and there are some O-rings needed in addition to the injectors. That fixed it. Installation is not difficult but you need to be careful with the injectors. But I suggest you get that confirmed at the dealership because your problem may be something else.
oceanrider
New Member
Also, gasoline changes composition after about 4-6 weeks. It jellyfies and I add some additive every winter to stop that from happening. Could be that you gas is a bit old too.
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
From what i have read the di takes the high octain gas only. That leads me to believe that old gas may cause severe engine damage. but I can allways be wrong. I may not understand this octain thing correctly from what I have been told the higher the octain the lower the flash point or the explosion this seems backwards to me. I have read that is how it keeps the predetination from hapening please someone elaberate on this only if you know for a fact and if you could please show a sourse of info so that we all know :cheers:
Thanks guys for the input. I bought a siphon last night and will try to switch out the gas and add some conditioner. Is STA-BIL good? Is it alright to put fuel injector cleaner into these DI models? Also, I have never used high octane gas in this DI. I did not see anywhere that said it ran on premium. Where does this information come from? Lastly, how will the dealer be able to tell if the injector is bad when there is no MAINT light coming on? I would think the light would come on if this was the issue and the computer knows about it. I am concerned that the dealer did not even winterize my ski last year. They left the old plugs in even though I clearly paid for new ones. Now I wonder if they put anything in the gas and changed the pump oil, etc. I think they just gave it back to me and charged me without doing any work.
oceanrider
New Member
Mine is 2001 DI and it definitely needs high octane fuel. It's in the manual. From the various posts I've seen about this model ( and I think the 2002 has only minor changes to the design) there is a possibility of some serious damage if high octane fuel is not used. I think it was discussed in some detail here in the Seadoo forum here http://www.pwctoday.com/forums.php .
It's always hard to prove whether the dealer did what they should. I wouldn't sweat the plugs, that's not likely to cause any damage and it's a cheap enough item.
If you have another dealer nearby, have them run a diagnostic. They hook up the ski to a computer and analyze the error codes - pretty much like car mechanics do. This is one of the problems with the DI models. They are a bitch to diagnose without the BUDS system. My dealer charges about $75 for a diagnostic. You are then free to fix the problem yourself and source the parts.
Good luck!
It's always hard to prove whether the dealer did what they should. I wouldn't sweat the plugs, that's not likely to cause any damage and it's a cheap enough item.
If you have another dealer nearby, have them run a diagnostic. They hook up the ski to a computer and analyze the error codes - pretty much like car mechanics do. This is one of the problems with the DI models. They are a bitch to diagnose without the BUDS system. My dealer charges about $75 for a diagnostic. You are then free to fix the problem yourself and source the parts.
Good luck!
Thanks. I am looking for another dealer here around Toledo, Ohio. Anyone recommend a good one? On the octane rating, I found this quote, but I will look for my manual when I go home tonight.
When you combine technology with luxury as well as the Sea-Doo GTX DI has, you make having fun an indulgence. So much of an indulgence, that it took PWI magazine’s “2001 Deluxe 3-seater Shootout” and Watercraft World magazine’s “2001 Deluxe Cruiser Shootout” awards home, hands down. Equipped with Orbital Direct Injection technology, fuel efficiencies have been improved 23% for 2002 engines versus 2001 engines, and the octane level has been reduced from 91 to 87.
oceanrider
New Member
The plot thickens a bit here. My original manual for 2001 states that a minimum 91 octane fuel is required. I also have the shop manual for 2002 (meant to be an identical machine but with OPAS) and that states that 87 octane fuel is required. Your quote above muddies the waters a bit more because my machine is also equipped with the Orbital fuel injection system. Maybe there are other differences. The bottom line is that YOUR Seadoo is fine with the 87 octane fuel and other than cleaning the RAVE valves, I'd look at the injectors. I am not sure if you can use injector cleaner in these machines. I took my injectors out and attempted to clean them manually with the injector cleaner, but it did little good. One needed replacing. This was last year with about 180 hours on the clock
Okay so I drained the gas, put in some STABIL and added 6 gal of new gas. At $4 gal to boot....Same issue; runs fine idles good. About 100 yards WOT and then it boggs down and dies like it is not getting gas or something. No MAINT light, no limp mode nothing. It starts after 3 tries and I idle back. It stalled twice but did idle back to the trailer. I did check the plugs right before going out and they were blacked already. Seemed a little moist too, and did not have a heavy gas smell at all. These plugs were new last weekend when I tried to run it and only had ;ess than 5 minutes of run time. I dont understand why they would be so black. I did clean them with a wire brush and like I said it started and idled fine at first. Any other thoughts here?
oceanrider
New Member
First, Im not a mechanic so anything I can suggest is based on some experience I've had with my Seadoo. There are no guarantees it will work. I would, at this point look at the RAVE valves. They can get clogged with muck and carbon and need cleaning every so often. Also make sure that they move freely. Then the symptoms seem to point towards the injectors or the fuel pump. You can waste more time trying to figure all that out or have a dealer run a diagnostic for about $100.
RAVE valves cleaning
Thanks for the input oceanrider. I can look into the RAVE cleaning. Is this hard to do? I can also get a compression testor to get those numbers. Any tips on cleaning the RAVE valves on a 2002 GTX DI would be appreciated. Thanks. Oh and I go to the dealer Monday morning, hopefully they will get a dignostic done.
Thanks for the input oceanrider. I can look into the RAVE cleaning. Is this hard to do? I can also get a compression testor to get those numbers. Any tips on cleaning the RAVE valves on a 2002 GTX DI would be appreciated. Thanks. Oh and I go to the dealer Monday morning, hopefully they will get a dignostic done.
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oceanrider
New Member
Send me an email to karel@bouncingczech.com and I'll send you a pdf extract from the shop manual that deals with the RAVE valves
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
Very good point thanks for sharing that with us. I will try and remember that about octane. :cheers:Thanks. I am looking for another dealer here around Toledo, Ohio. Anyone recommend a good one? On the octane rating, I found this quote, but I will look for my manual when I go home tonight.
RAVE valves and OCTANE
Okay guys. Thanks for all the help. The DOO is running SWEET.... I cleaned the RAVE valves, after finding the 2002 VOL 1 manual on this site. ANyone seen 2002 VOL 2 which covers the GTX DI?? Anyhow the cleaning did the trick and no stalling. Must have run about 30 minutes really nice feeling.
My SeaDoo has 80 hours on it and the compression tester I borrowed gave 90 on each cyclinder. Not sure if I did it right, but thats what I got.
I also looked at the owners manual, and the 2002 owners manual does say 91 octane, but the 2002 GTX DI supplement says regular gas, minimum 87 octane.
Thanks again for all your advice. You got me running again. I will still let the dealer look it over on Monday as planned to be sure.
Okay guys. Thanks for all the help. The DOO is running SWEET.... I cleaned the RAVE valves, after finding the 2002 VOL 1 manual on this site. ANyone seen 2002 VOL 2 which covers the GTX DI?? Anyhow the cleaning did the trick and no stalling. Must have run about 30 minutes really nice feeling.
My SeaDoo has 80 hours on it and the compression tester I borrowed gave 90 on each cyclinder. Not sure if I did it right, but thats what I got.
I also looked at the owners manual, and the 2002 owners manual does say 91 octane, but the 2002 GTX DI supplement says regular gas, minimum 87 octane.
Thanks again for all your advice. You got me running again. I will still let the dealer look it over on Monday as planned to be sure.
I've got the same exact symptoms as above, but still no cure. It's been to the dealership twice but they still can't figure out what's wrong. Personally, I'm unimpressed with their knowledge thus far but won't go into details.
OK here's what's been checked and what I was told by the dealer
-Compression checked even in both cylinders (~140psig)
-Fuel pressure test was OK
-Air pump pressure test was OK
-Gas drained and new 93 octane gas put in
-New NGK ZFR4F plugs
-Rave valves cleaned and checked for function
-Ignition checked
When I first took it out, it ran great for about an hour, then it seemed like it went into limp home mode after misfiring during WOT. It had like 20 fault codes on it when the dealer was finally able to read it, then once cleared, it didn't throw a code again. UNSOLDE MYSTERY, any thoughts would be appreciated.
OK here's what's been checked and what I was told by the dealer
-Compression checked even in both cylinders (~140psig)
-Fuel pressure test was OK
-Air pump pressure test was OK
-Gas drained and new 93 octane gas put in
-New NGK ZFR4F plugs
-Rave valves cleaned and checked for function
-Ignition checked
When I first took it out, it ran great for about an hour, then it seemed like it went into limp home mode after misfiring during WOT. It had like 20 fault codes on it when the dealer was finally able to read it, then once cleared, it didn't throw a code again. UNSOLDE MYSTERY, any thoughts would be appreciated.
Blue Smoke too
What are the possible causes of the blue smoke in a 2 stroke Di motor like this (2002 GTX DI with 185hrs on it). I'm more of a car guy, so I'm used to smoke being a sign of worn rings which hsould also see poor compression, but in a 2 stroke, worn rings shouldn't make a difference on the amount of smoke right?
What are the possible causes of the blue smoke in a 2 stroke Di motor like this (2002 GTX DI with 185hrs on it). I'm more of a car guy, so I'm used to smoke being a sign of worn rings which hsould also see poor compression, but in a 2 stroke, worn rings shouldn't make a difference on the amount of smoke right?
LOWELL787:
My problem seemed to shut it down after about 5 minutes or so, not an hour. The RAVE cleaning seems to have fixed mine. Is your ski goign into limp mode with a beep warning and everything? If so, I would find another dealer in the area, because the computer should be able to detect the issue.
I think the bluish smoke is probably from the Synthetic oil used in the DI. If the smoke is excessive, it may be a sign of OIL INJECTOR failure which also may be causing the other problem. It seems if the MPEM cannot correct the mixture or spark timing, etc, it goes into limp mode. I am not sure, but it seems that way.
My problem seemed to shut it down after about 5 minutes or so, not an hour. The RAVE cleaning seems to have fixed mine. Is your ski goign into limp mode with a beep warning and everything? If so, I would find another dealer in the area, because the computer should be able to detect the issue.
I think the bluish smoke is probably from the Synthetic oil used in the DI. If the smoke is excessive, it may be a sign of OIL INJECTOR failure which also may be causing the other problem. It seems if the MPEM cannot correct the mixture or spark timing, etc, it goes into limp mode. I am not sure, but it seems that way.
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cut'n ride
New Member
How is your di running today? also, did your guages sometimes go out when it stalled?
cut'n ride
New Member
I have seen the same kind of incompetence with the dealers I've gone to. The whole Seadoo-has to be diagnosed with buds- engineering, coupled with the high price of parts, makes me wish I bought a Yami. Oh well, I've gone past the point of no return with my 2003 gtxdi. I HAVE to fix it.
cut'n ride
New Member
I had a bad fuel pump on mine and changed it out a few months ago. I don't think it's the culprit. Did yours ever completely stall out? IF so, what would happen? Would the guages cut out, too??? Would it restart? Would it get better after cooling off? Sorry for the questions... But, I'm kinda stumped over this one.
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