So, I got tired of my 2002 Seadoo GTX hydrolocking on oil. The seal had gotten so bad that if the ski sat for me than about 3 days, i'd have to pull the plugs and turn the motor over with a towel sitting over the holes to clean it out. It'd take me about 2 hours to get all of it and then I had the huge mess in the hull to deal with afterward. So, figuring I needed a crank anyway due to the seal placement, I decided to try something a little bit out there. I knew from experience that seal conditioners in high mileage branded oils worked by softening rubber seals to help them seal better again. so, I decided to try it.
1) here are the parts and chemicals I decided to use. The hose is 1/2" silicone. DO NOT USE IT FOR A PERMANENT SOLUTION. It gets rock hard after exposure with oil. Not what you want for your oil injection system.
2) The line with the pipe clamp is where the oil supply line is on the exhaust side.
3) The line in the pic above with the pipe clamp is on the return on the intake side of the engine.
4) Disconnect the oil lines and seal them off temporarily. I chose the "bend and zip" method. Be prepared for the oil mess that goes into the bottom of the ski.
6) Connect ~2 feet of hose to the input side and attach your funnel to it. The fittings are smaller than 1/2" so you'll need to use a zip tie or something to keep the hose secured.
7) Run 5 -6 feet of hose from the output fitting down to a bucket or other suitable oil catch basin.
8) I didn't catch pictures of it, but, I then mixed about 10 oz of oil to about 1/2 the container of the Bars Conditioner. I poured that into the funnel and used the turkey baster to help force it through a bit. I then turned the motor over with the starter 5-6 times (spark plugs removed). I let the mixture sit in the motor for 10 minutes. I then blew through the input hose to get as much out as I could. I repeated the process with another 10oz of oil and the rest of the Bars conditioner. After blowing it out the second time, I then poured 10-20 ounces of oil through the lines to purge as much of the conditioner as I could. I rotated the motor a few times in the middle of pouring just to help get the stuff out. I reconnected the hoses and called it done.
I took the ski out to the lake and ran for about 3 hours. It ran fine, smoking like crazy when I first cranked it up. Nothing new there. Today is Friday and I last drove it this past Saturday. Normally, by now the engine wouldn't turn over due to the oil filling the cylinders. I went to crank it today and it fired right up. I ran it for a 10-30 seconds and no smoke! When I've done that in the past, the smoke was basically a solid column coming from behind the ski. I will take it to the lake in a week or so to try it out. Right now I'm calling it success. Worst case, the seal expands too much rips itself apart and I'm back to needing to replace the crank.
Maybe this helps somebody. Maybe it gets bad comments from the purist ("fix it right the first time!"). For me though, i'm pretty stoked.
1) here are the parts and chemicals I decided to use. The hose is 1/2" silicone. DO NOT USE IT FOR A PERMANENT SOLUTION. It gets rock hard after exposure with oil. Not what you want for your oil injection system.
2) The line with the pipe clamp is where the oil supply line is on the exhaust side.
3) The line in the pic above with the pipe clamp is on the return on the intake side of the engine.
4) Disconnect the oil lines and seal them off temporarily. I chose the "bend and zip" method. Be prepared for the oil mess that goes into the bottom of the ski.
6) Connect ~2 feet of hose to the input side and attach your funnel to it. The fittings are smaller than 1/2" so you'll need to use a zip tie or something to keep the hose secured.
7) Run 5 -6 feet of hose from the output fitting down to a bucket or other suitable oil catch basin.
8) I didn't catch pictures of it, but, I then mixed about 10 oz of oil to about 1/2 the container of the Bars Conditioner. I poured that into the funnel and used the turkey baster to help force it through a bit. I then turned the motor over with the starter 5-6 times (spark plugs removed). I let the mixture sit in the motor for 10 minutes. I then blew through the input hose to get as much out as I could. I repeated the process with another 10oz of oil and the rest of the Bars conditioner. After blowing it out the second time, I then poured 10-20 ounces of oil through the lines to purge as much of the conditioner as I could. I rotated the motor a few times in the middle of pouring just to help get the stuff out. I reconnected the hoses and called it done.
I took the ski out to the lake and ran for about 3 hours. It ran fine, smoking like crazy when I first cranked it up. Nothing new there. Today is Friday and I last drove it this past Saturday. Normally, by now the engine wouldn't turn over due to the oil filling the cylinders. I went to crank it today and it fired right up. I ran it for a 10-30 seconds and no smoke! When I've done that in the past, the smoke was basically a solid column coming from behind the ski. I will take it to the lake in a week or so to try it out. Right now I'm calling it success. Worst case, the seal expands too much rips itself apart and I'm back to needing to replace the crank.
Maybe this helps somebody. Maybe it gets bad comments from the purist ("fix it right the first time!"). For me though, i'm pretty stoked.
