Wing Luong
New Member
Does anyone have any idea what kind of motor it got??
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2001 utopia 185
- Thread starter Wing Luong
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Wing Luong
New Member
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Wing Luong
New Member
Wing Luong
New Member
Also think boat is worth 6000?? Thinking of buying it
Murph_13
Active Member
That is the 210HP Mercury SportJet...carbureted motor...boat looks clean in the pictures...if the motor checks out to be good (compression test) and a water test goes well (should reach speeds of 45-50 mph on the speedometer (dreamometer) if the pump is in really good shape; at a minimum it should top 40 mph), I think it's a pretty good price at $6k...depending on weather and water conditions...the engine RPM should reach near 5800 RPM max...
Murph_13
Active Member
I have a 2002 Utopia 185 with the same motor...my pump is in really good shape and those are the numbers I see on my boat regularly with a couple people on board and fairly calm water...the boat you are looking at is the first generation and the hull is slightly different than mine, but numbers should be close to the same...
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Wing Luong
New Member
Seller haven't put it in water this whole year. He doesn't wanna do a water test "no time that's why selling for so low" I don't know anything about sea doo boat but do want a smaller boat. So was wondering if this is good. Also when u said compression test. How do I do compression test on it??
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Wing Luong
New Member
So looking at that does that mean if it's 5500 or so rpm at a speed of around 52 mph the compression is good??
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Murph_13
Active Member
Well since the seller isn't willing to let you water test the boat, the numbers above don't mean anything...I'd be leery of buying a boat without a water test...you never know what you're getting.
With that said, they do seem to be low on the price, so if you can do a compression test and run the motor with a hose hooked up for cooling (do not run it too long on the hose) and crawl underneath the boat to see the condition of the impeller and look in the backside of the jet nozzle to see what the stator vanes look like and that all checks out...then it may be a good deal?
To do a compression test you'll need a compression tester (may be able to rent/borrow one from a local auto parts store). To perform the compression test you'll remove all of the spark plugs, install the compression tester to each cylinder (threads into the spark plug hole) and crank the engine over with the throttle wide-open (the boat shifter will need to be in the neutral position to crank and you'll manually need to hold the throttle plates open while cranking)...after a minimum of four compression strokes record the highest reading for each cylinder...a good condition motor should be 120 psi or greater...a marginal motor will be above 100 psi...you should not see any variation between cylinders of 15 psi or greater, if so there is something wrong with the cylinder that is lower by 15 psi or greater...
With that said, they do seem to be low on the price, so if you can do a compression test and run the motor with a hose hooked up for cooling (do not run it too long on the hose) and crawl underneath the boat to see the condition of the impeller and look in the backside of the jet nozzle to see what the stator vanes look like and that all checks out...then it may be a good deal?
To do a compression test you'll need a compression tester (may be able to rent/borrow one from a local auto parts store). To perform the compression test you'll remove all of the spark plugs, install the compression tester to each cylinder (threads into the spark plug hole) and crank the engine over with the throttle wide-open (the boat shifter will need to be in the neutral position to crank and you'll manually need to hold the throttle plates open while cranking)...after a minimum of four compression strokes record the highest reading for each cylinder...a good condition motor should be 120 psi or greater...a marginal motor will be above 100 psi...you should not see any variation between cylinders of 15 psi or greater, if so there is something wrong with the cylinder that is lower by 15 psi or greater...
Wing Luong
New Member
Ok I'll go get a compression test tool from the auto shop and maybe a wrench to pull out spark plugs. When u test do u test one at a time or u yank all the plugs out??
Murph_13
Active Member
Yes, remove all of the plugs. There is a "kill switch" next to the ignition switch...there should be a lanyard that plugs onto the "kill switch" which will allow you to start the motor (switch depressed)...start the motor and pull the lanyard off of the "kill switch" while the engine is running to make sure it is functioning properly (the engine should shut off when you pull the lanyard). If it is functioning properly you will perform your compression test with the lanyard OFF of the "kill switch" (switch NOT depressed)...this will disable the ignition system so that you can perform your compression test safely...you want the ignition system disabled when you do the test.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Without a water run... you are just rolling the dice.
Tell him you will give him a $1k deposit, and you will take it out. If it runs... give him the rest of the $$$ and do the paperwork.
BUT, if he refuses outright... then he's probably hiding something.
Just be aware... even a half dead engine and drive will sound ok on the trailer. It takes a load on the engine to truly know if it's OK. Yes, it's cheap... but not that cheap.
Tell him you will give him a $1k deposit, and you will take it out. If it runs... give him the rest of the $$$ and do the paperwork.
BUT, if he refuses outright... then he's probably hiding something.
Just be aware... even a half dead engine and drive will sound ok on the trailer. It takes a load on the engine to truly know if it's OK. Yes, it's cheap... but not that cheap.
Wing Luong
New Member
I didn't take boat. He wouldn't let me do compression test. He said he doesn't have time to go on water. He doesn't want someone he doesn't know to just take boat. I told him I'll let him hold 2000 and if everything ok I'll give him rest he still doesn't wanna. He said 6000 boat is sold as is. He doesn't want hassle of me testing it and bringing it back saying I don't want it. So I told him if that's the case I'll give u 2000 cash for it as is and he said nope so I walked
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If he was that "NOT-user friendly", you probably didn't want the boat. Without a compression test and a ride-and-drive, do NOT buy anything without the assumption the engine will need serious repair and replacement.
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Wing Luong
New Member
I wanted the boat I drove 90 mins one way to check it out and hand cash in pocket. I wouldn't even wasted my time if he told me he wouldn't let me do compression test or test boat on water..... I did offered him 2000 toward end for boat as is... If worst comes to worst and engine is bad I think 4000 can fix it
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Good choice. It will probably be a long day at the beach before he sells it , if ever.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
That sux... but I think you did the right thing. There are a lot of boats out there for the $6k target, and if he wouldn't even let you do a compression check to find the health of the boat... then he is REALLY hiding something.
I know when I sell a water toy... The "Test ride" is always a pain. But the way I handle it is... I get a feel for the person who is coming to buy it... and in the case of this boat... I would have said...
"OK, give me $100 to cover the fuel and my time. If you buy the boat... it will come out of the price. If it doesn't run for some reason... I will give you a refund." That always weeds out the looky-loo's. Because the guy who really wants it... will agree to that. Let's face it... $100 is a token amount on $6k.
If it was a jetski... I ask for $50.
There is one last way of doing it... if you REALY like the boat.... ask if he will sign a small contract, that will allow a full refund if there are an "Major" issues.
I know when I sell a water toy... The "Test ride" is always a pain. But the way I handle it is... I get a feel for the person who is coming to buy it... and in the case of this boat... I would have said...
"OK, give me $100 to cover the fuel and my time. If you buy the boat... it will come out of the price. If it doesn't run for some reason... I will give you a refund." That always weeds out the looky-loo's. Because the guy who really wants it... will agree to that. Let's face it... $100 is a token amount on $6k.
If it was a jetski... I ask for $50.
There is one last way of doing it... if you REALY like the boat.... ask if he will sign a small contract, that will allow a full refund if there are an "Major" issues.
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