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2001 SEADOO ISLANDIA 240 MERC ENGINE OE390883 Ser# S721P52

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Joe2tek

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Good Morning All

I have owned this boat for the past few years. Ever since I purchased this boat, I have had problems with it. I have several years of Engine rebuilding experience across a huge array of engines.

To keep it short and to the point here is the issue I am having.

To start, it has a new engine, so all of the cylinders have 135 - 150 lbs of compression. It had this problem before the engine change as well, so I don't believe its mechanical.

When we initially start the boat, it runs like a raped ape. Plenty of power and will run for hours. When I shut the engine down to dock, fuel, etc, when I try to re-start the engine, it cranks and wont start. Let it sit for several minutes to an hour, turn the key, and it starts.

I noticed if I manually hold open the throttle plate, she will start up as well. I have changed the Port Side Temp sensor, put some grease on it and it still does the same thing. It is the only issue I have had. I have had all the injectors and reed vales changed and rebuilt. Vapor canister etc. I have since noticed that when I started the engine yesterday, it seemed to rev up very high without idling.

Could this be the TPS? It is really driving me crazy. Maybe you can explain the correct steps to take to eliminate this problem, I have pretty much checked everything but hesitate to change TPS due to the extreme cost of it.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Joe
 
Good Morning All

I have owned this boat for the past few years. Ever since I purchased this boat, I have had problems with it. I have several years of Engine rebuilding experience across a huge array of engines.

To keep it short and to the point here is the issue I am having.

To start, it has a new engine, so all of the cylinders have 135 - 150 lbs of compression. It had this problem before the engine change as well, so I don't believe its mechanical.

When we initially start the boat, it runs like a raped ape. Plenty of power and will run for hours. When I shut the engine down to dock, fuel, etc, when I try to re-start the engine, it cranks and wont start. Let it sit for several minutes to an hour, turn the key, and it starts.

I noticed if I manually hold open the throttle plate, she will start up as well. I have changed the Port Side Temp sensor, put some grease on it and it still does the same thing. It is the only issue I have had. I have had all the injectors and reed vales changed and rebuilt. Vapor canister etc. I have since noticed that when I started the engine yesterday, it seemed to rev up very high without idling.

Could this be the TPS? It is really driving me crazy. Maybe you can explain the correct steps to take to eliminate this problem, I have pretty much checked everything but hesitate to change TPS due to the extreme cost of it.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Joe

Time to check the tps. Many threads here about it. Tps controls fuel to about 3/4 throttle. If it's bad, ECU can dump lots of extra fuel into engine. Agreed- it is stupid crazy expensive.

When engine was rebuilt, were the bleed system hoses replaced? That old rubber hose cracks and can cause a vacuum leak that can cause an uncontrollable idle. I used tygon weed eater fuel hose as replacement.

Check vst fuel pressure. Should be 36psi.

How long ago were the injectors serviced? Were they tested on a flow bench?

Take a close look at the wires from the trigger. 6 wires come out from under the flywheel on starboard side going to a connector aft of flywheel. Is the insulation good or crumbly? If crumbly, you need a trigger, too.
 
Tim,

Thanks for the help. I will check those items you mentioned. All the hoses were replaced. I was personally not there when they tested the fuel injectors, but they billed me and provided a flow sheet after the rebuild.
I know they changed all of the reeds, and checked the Vapor canister and other fuel pumps.
When the boat won't start, if i go to the port side of the engine and manually hold open the throttle plate, it will start right up. I also noticed that if I cold start the engine, let it run a few minutes and shut it down, the port side exhaust emits a white smoke after the engine is turned off. Definitely fuel. I will check the fuel pressure tonight, but I have several times. Like I said, when the engine runs on the water, it runs flat out without any issues. Tons of power and speed, no cavitation at all.
This past weekend, when I started the engine to winterize the boat for the season, the engine upon start up raced for several minutes. Linkage was fine, no binding. It has to be the TPS, or one of the other items you mentioned.
I will keep you posted. Thanks for your help Tim.

Joe
 
Hi guys. Off engine topic but I need help with where a drain line goes to that is beside sink drain line behind drawer and storage compartment. Mine has disintegrated and I can’t see where it is supposed to go. It is 5/8 ID. Any ideas? Thanks
 
Good Morning All

I have owned this boat for the past few years. Ever since I purchased this boat, I have had problems with it. I have several years of Engine rebuilding experience across a huge array of engines.

To keep it short and to the point here is the issue I am having.

To start, it has a new engine, so all of the cylinders have 135 - 150 lbs of compression. It had this problem before the engine change as well, so I don't believe its mechanical.

When we initially start the boat, it runs like a raped ape. Plenty of power and will run for hours. When I shut the engine down to dock, fuel, etc, when I try to re-start the engine, it cranks and wont start. Let it sit for several minutes to an hour, turn the key, and it starts.

I noticed if I manually hold open the throttle plate, she will start up as well. I have changed the Port Side Temp sensor, put some grease on it and it still does the same thing. It is the only issue I have had. I have had all the injectors and reed vales changed and rebuilt. Vapor canister etc. I have since noticed that when I started the engine yesterday, it seemed to rev up very high without idling.

Could this be the TPS? It is really driving me crazy. Maybe you can explain the correct steps to take to eliminate this problem, I have pretty much checked everything but hesitate to change TPS due to the extreme cost of it.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Joe
I am just amateur, I do things on my own. I had similar problems with engine only start cold and it was the oil pump hose that I accidentally reverse while doing some work. Check the conduction for the oil to the pump easy to misplacey there is one for air and another one for oil. Hope that’s help
 
Tim,

Thanks for the help. I will check those items you mentioned. All the hoses were replaced. I was personally not there when they tested the fuel injectors, but they billed me and provided a flow sheet after the rebuild.
I know they changed all of the reeds, and checked the Vapor canister and other fuel pumps.
When the boat won't start, if i go to the port side of the engine and manually hold open the throttle plate, it will start right up. I also noticed that if I cold start the engine, let it run a few minutes and shut it down, the port side exhaust emits a white smoke after the engine is turned off. Definitely fuel. I will check the fuel pressure tonight, but I have several times. Like I said, when the engine runs on the water, it runs flat out without any issues. Tons of power and speed, no cavitation at all.
This past weekend, when I started the engine to winterize the boat for the season, the engine upon start up raced for several minutes. Linkage was fine, no binding. It has to be the TPS, or one of the other items you mentioned.
I will keep you posted. Thanks for your help Tim.

Joe

Have you visually checked your throttle plate action? All 4 butterflys fully open at full throttle from the helm? More concerning- are they closing completely (that is, too far) at idle? As you pull throttle lever to idle, engine should run 1100-1200 rpm in the water. RPM on land is irrelevant. If butterflys are not open a tiny amount, there is no way for the engine to "breathe" at idle start.

Another check- on the injectors. I know, they were serviced. Let's check them anyway. Easy. With the pressure gauge installed, key ON, engine OFF. What is your pressure? With hose-pinch pliers, pinch off the hose coming up out of the vst. What happens to your pressure? If it drops instantly, you probably have one or more leaking injectors. Leading to engine flooding and hard starts.
 
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