2001 seadoo islanda

[curt00]

Hey there just having an issue with my boat , after 10 to 15 minutes it doesn't want to run at full power then after that it tends to jump into full power off and on. Is there anything I should be looking into before I just start to dig into wiring? This is a vertical v6 2 stroke engine

 

[hfgreg]

Usually not too long. Has anyone replied?

 

[curt00]

Not yet, just wasn't sure if I was doing something wrong.

 

[curt00]

Hey there just having an issue with my boat , after 10 to 15 minutes it doesn't want to run at full power then after that it tends to jump into full power off and on. Is there anything I should be looking into before I just start to dig into wiring? This is a vertical v6 2 stroke engine

Just to clarify this is a 240 murcery 2 stroke v 6

 

[Tim75]

Hey there just having an issue with my boat , after 10 to 15 minutes it doesn't want to run at full power then after that it tends to jump into full power off and on. Is there anything I should be looking into before I just start to dig into wiring? This is a vertical v6 2 stroke engine

When it starts messing up, shut it down. While it's still hot, check the trigger. 6 wire connector, on top of engine, just aft of flywheel. open the connector. Wires are checked in pairs. 3 pairs. All pairs should have the same resistance. Don't remember the value. Looking for hot soak failure.

 

[curt00]

Hey thanks for the reply! So that actually makes quite a bit of sense those wires were actually bare coming out of their and I replaced them and it was still doing it so I figured there must be a bad coil or something. I'll check see if I can do that test

 

[Tim75]

Hey thanks for the reply! So that actually makes quite a bit of sense those wires were actually bare coming out of their and I replaced them and it was still doing it so I figured there must be a bad coil or something. I'll check see if I can do that test

Bare wires????
Seems like you found your problem. The original old stock triggers had terrible insulation that crumbled and fell off over the years.
Time for a flywheel puller and a new trigger. Mercury OEM or CDI electronics.

 

[curt00]

Thanks a bunch! I appreciate your expertise! I'll try that see if it works!

 

[curt00]

Bare wires????
Seems like you found your problem. The original old stock triggers had terrible insulation that crumbled and fell off over the years.
Time for a flywheel puller and a new trigger. Mercury OEM or CDI electronics.

Hey there thanks for all you have done for me but I finally got this thing replaced and now I still have the same issue, what Else should I be looking for?

 

[ripcuda]

The jumping of power off and on... would make me suspicious of the TPS (throttle position sensor). As they start to go bad, they give bad readings to the ECU... to include jumpy readings instead of smooth readings as throttle changes. These bad reading cause the ECU to alter fuel injecting pulse widths. I would also look at the starboard cylinder head temperature sensor. It ties in with the TPS for readings to the ECU. Temp sensor can be ohm tested. TPS can be volt tested.

 

[curt00]

The jumping of power off and on... would make me suspicious of the TPS (throttle position sensor). As they start to go bad, they give bad readings to the ECU... to include jumpy readings instead of smooth readings as throttle changes. These bad reading cause the ECU to alter fuel injecting pulse widths. I would also look at the starboard cylinder head temperature sensor. It ties in with the TPS for readings to the ECU. Temp sensor can be ohm tested. TPS can be volt tested.

Thanks for the response I have been trying to locate the sensor is there a good u tube video that shows it ?

 

[ripcuda]

The TPS is on the intake manifold... driver (starboard) side... down low... under/behind the fuel filter. Round shape with two retaining screws and a 3-wire connector.

 

[curt00]

Thank you this is supper helpful do you know where I can find the voltage specs?

 

[ripcuda]

Testing TPS

The connector to the TPS needs to be connected so the ECU and send the supply voltage to the TPS and we can read the signal/return voltage to determine if the sensor is working proper. Mercury sells a 3-way test connector, but I have used an easier way. Get a couple inch long piece of multi-strand wire. Remove sheath on wire and separate 3 individual, thin, wires. Unplug TPS connector and insert a thin wire into each female connector... then plug connector back together (don't let thin exposed wires touch). Now you can test voltages across all three wires.

- Unplug starboard(passenger) side cylinder head temp sensor
- Turn ignition key to ON (but do not start... ensure good battery)
- Find wire with supply voltage to TPS.
- Find wire with sensor return voltage Low-to-Hi (other wire will be Hi-to-Low)
- With throttle at zero/idle... read return voltage... should be 0.20 - 0.30 volts
- Slowly advance throttle to full/wot... observe voltages while doing... smooth voltage transition expected
- if voltages jump all over the place while moving throttle... likely bad TPS.
- Put throttle to full/wot... read return voltage... should be ~ 7.46 volts
- loosen TPS fasteners and adjust/rotate TPS (small changes)... adjust until correct volts low/hi read.
- tighten TPS fasteners, recheck, remove thin wires in connector, replug connector, done.