Could someone please help, I was removing my fuel pump from the canister for cleaning, and both red and black cables came out of the plug does anyone know which way they go around, there is ABCD written on one of the plugs, my old pump work both ways but one way seem to be more powerful.
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2001 Seadoo GTX DI Fuel pump
- Thread starter aaronm
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Cant you just look at the connector it plugs into and match the colors?
I would look at them if they were the same colours, but they are different colours that go into the top of the pump
DooWacka
Active Member
A couple of pics from the DI fuel pump Replacement Guide show the wire order in the plug.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?61195-Seadoo-DI-(Direct-Injection)-Fuel-Pump-Replacement-Guide&p=325621#post325621
The smaller gauge green and black wires are the inner pair for the fuel sensor.
The larger gauge red and black wires are the outer pair for the fuel pump.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?61195-Seadoo-DI-(Direct-Injection)-Fuel-Pump-Replacement-Guide&p=325621#post325621
The smaller gauge green and black wires are the inner pair for the fuel sensor.
The larger gauge red and black wires are the outer pair for the fuel pump.
Thanks DooWacka, pump is now working since I replace with a HFP-343 pump, took ski out for a ride after about 5 minutes maint came up on screen, took back to shore restarted ski and it stalled maintenance came on again and would not crank after investigation found the most forward 15amp fuse blown, had a look at wiring diagram and checked all resistances of parts that run off that Amp connector and they all checked out ok, found the wires above after coming out of plug were abit loose so I sealed them in with hot glue to stop any movement not sure if this would have cause the blown fuse or not
DooWacka
Active Member
It is hard to say what the problem is.
Here are some guesses.
I have not heard of anyone running a 343 pump yet. I would bet that it draws at least 16A current. Most people are rebuilding with pumps that draw 12A or even 9A. See the fuel pump Guide in the "How-To Tech articles" that I pointed to in the last post. The magneto only puts out about 18A, so if you use most of the power running a pump, the MPEM gets "starved" and acts up in a number of ways.
I assume you are talking about the fuses on the MPEM up front, not fuses in the electrical box in back. If so the most forward 15A is for the injectors, while the 15A at the back end is for the fuel pump. It obviously won't start without either. If you mean it won't crank (ie. won't even turn over) possibly the MPEM is not allowing starter solenoid actuation. I don't know what you mean about all the resistances off connector #4 checking out OK, since there are a bunch of unrelated components.
If the fuel module plug individual wire connectors are not staying put, the metal connector "prongs" are damaged or not bent the right way. The wires should stay (click) in the connector and not need glue. Also once the connector is plugged in, if they don't stay firmly attached to their counterpart then they are damaged, and should be repaired or replaced, not glued.
Here are some guesses.
I have not heard of anyone running a 343 pump yet. I would bet that it draws at least 16A current. Most people are rebuilding with pumps that draw 12A or even 9A. See the fuel pump Guide in the "How-To Tech articles" that I pointed to in the last post. The magneto only puts out about 18A, so if you use most of the power running a pump, the MPEM gets "starved" and acts up in a number of ways.
I assume you are talking about the fuses on the MPEM up front, not fuses in the electrical box in back. If so the most forward 15A is for the injectors, while the 15A at the back end is for the fuel pump. It obviously won't start without either. If you mean it won't crank (ie. won't even turn over) possibly the MPEM is not allowing starter solenoid actuation. I don't know what you mean about all the resistances off connector #4 checking out OK, since there are a bunch of unrelated components.
If the fuel module plug individual wire connectors are not staying put, the metal connector "prongs" are damaged or not bent the right way. The wires should stay (click) in the connector and not need glue. Also once the connector is plugged in, if they don't stay firmly attached to their counterpart then they are damaged, and should be repaired or replaced, not glued.
From what I have been told by the HFP pump is that it only draws 9amps at 100% I haven't check this yet.
I just took it that the front fuse was for the Amp connector 4 as the wiring diagram states the components on that plug including the fuel pump, I need to get a new plug as the connectors will not clips plug is broken, ho glue was just a temporary fix, in the wiring diagram is states what components are run off connector 4 like injectors and it explains under fault finding in the manual how to check the resistances of all the electrical components and the check good. The pump I got was the HFP-RTN
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DooWacka
Active Member
OK, you have the correct pump (HFP-RTN, not 343) and from my measurements on my two, it does use only 9A.
Yes, you do need to fix the fuel pump plug somehow, to assure you get good connections, even when bouncing around on the water.
The front most fuse is for the injectors, not the entire #4 AMP connector. The back most fuse is for the fuel pump, which is also on connector #4 (upper larger gauge wires).
You said "would not crank" -- do you mean did not "turn over", or just did not start?
Since you obviously have a Shop Manual, based on your resistance measurements, you need to follow the troubleshooting section starting on page 3-01-1.
The "MAINT" (maintenance) on screen could be unrelated and something as simple as -- it's time for a jet-pump oil change. If that is the case try resetting by pressing and holding the SET button for 2 seconds (page 10-05-4).
If the MAINT is accompanied by the red LED and buzzer, then you go to the section starting on page 6-04-4 to decipher the buzzer codes, and figure out what the problem is.
Yes, you do need to fix the fuel pump plug somehow, to assure you get good connections, even when bouncing around on the water.
The front most fuse is for the injectors, not the entire #4 AMP connector. The back most fuse is for the fuel pump, which is also on connector #4 (upper larger gauge wires).
You said "would not crank" -- do you mean did not "turn over", or just did not start?
Since you obviously have a Shop Manual, based on your resistance measurements, you need to follow the troubleshooting section starting on page 3-01-1.
The "MAINT" (maintenance) on screen could be unrelated and something as simple as -- it's time for a jet-pump oil change. If that is the case try resetting by pressing and holding the SET button for 2 seconds (page 10-05-4).
If the MAINT is accompanied by the red LED and buzzer, then you go to the section starting on page 6-04-4 to decipher the buzzer codes, and figure out what the problem is.
Hey guys first time posting, On another site i am on, This may be highjacking a thread,If it is i am sorry, But...Since this thread is about the pump I need, I am going to ask if anyone looking here since they may be more apt to know about this pump, I am interested in a purchase, Also I learned allot from this thread already , because I will be going thru the change soon i hope 
Thank You , Please pm me if anyone has one they would like to part with, I noted the wires here, You can bet your boots this will happen to me, All the best and good luck
Thank You , Please pm me if anyone has one they would like to part with, I noted the wires here, You can bet your boots this will happen to me, All the best and good luck
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Thank you DooWacka, your information is fantastic, when I say ski wont start, it wouldn't crank as soon as I press start button maintenance light would just come on with red light no beeps, how can I know if my injectors are operating correctly, I was really impressed with the detail information of fitting new fuel pump worked well, and it did solve my bogging problem
So I am guessing my problem is not related to my pump but perhaps my injector rail.
So I am guessing my problem is not related to my pump but perhaps my injector rail.
EMR, the fuel pump I purchased it from High Flow Pumps USA www.highflowfuel.com the pump is a replacement for the seadoo pump costing around $150 it delivers the right pressure with the right current draw just needs a few mods done to attach to the fuel canister DooWacker has very detailed information and photos as seen during this thread.
DooWacka
Active Member
Aaron, first "reset" the system by removing the lanyard key from the post. When you re-install on the post do you get the familiar 2 short beeps? This would be good, if not then troubleshoot the DESS system (page 6-04-2). You should also hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds when first putting the key on the post.
Also, make sure the battery is fully charged. If charged, you can check the solenoid in the rear electrical box. I think the motor should crank even if the injectors have problems. If the solenoid is receiving current from the MPEM it should provide power to the starter. You can test the starter by jumpering the solenoid.
Replace the bad fuse, and verify your fuel pump wiring. You need to figure out why it is not cranking before any further troubleshooting, or worrying about the injectors.
Ok so I think we may have mixed this up, after the ski stopped I found a blown fuse the 15amp most forward on MPEM I replaced it and ski does start, just un sure why fuse blew that's why I have been checking the other components like the injectors etc, other then resistances it doesn't suggest other ways of testing my injectors, and resistances are good according to the manual, just not sure what has blown the injector fuse, have double checked the pump wiring but you stated that the pump is off the back fuse, thanks for all you help, I am contemplating purchasing CanDoo Pro as I am new to jet skis and other then basics not sure about complicated issues
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