2001 Mercury 210 Carb 2.5 Utopia 185

[Mikum1968]

So I have this beautiful little boat. I've been going through it meticulously to restore everything to near new condition. It runs fantastic. But it has an intermittent problem that is getting worse. After running for some time it'll just cut out like it's been shot in the head with a 50 caliber rifle. The problem wasn't so bad last year or this year until recently. Now even idling out of a no wake zone as soon as I give it throttle it dies. The Boat Shop replace the stator last year. I've replaced the fuel pump relay and the electric fuel pump and rebuilt mechanical fuel pump. When the boat runs which was as recently as two weeks ago, it runs like a bat out of hell. 50 miles an hour at 6000 RPM. Could not be happier with the way the boat runs when it's running. When it dies. It will not start. When I trailer at home and wait it'll start right up in my driveway the next day. It's very odd. Anybody have any ideas?

 

[Mikum1968]

Not sure if this is how to reach out, but here goes.

I've been having the same recurring problem with my boat for a year-and-a-half now Dr Honda. I do not know who to reach out to. I bought the boat used. I've gone through every system on the boat. Brand new fuel filter (spin on type with water separating feature), brand new fuel lines, brand new fuel pump, brand new fuel pump relay. Running either Sea Foam or Quickleen to keep the carburetors and engine clean from deposits.

The boat runs great when it's running. 5700 rpm screaming at 50 mph.

Last year, I took the boat into a local Marine shop because it was dying - - stalling like somebody turned off a switch - - intermittently when under power. The boat started right back up but the stalling became more and more frequent until I found myself just inside the no wake zone with no start. The engine would crank but it would not start. Had to get a tow in from a fellow enthusiast.

Took the boat to a local Mercury certified shop. Within a few days the shop told me the stator was bad. I was told the boat was only running on three cylinders and that they tested the ignition system by switching out the boxes to confirm the stator and not the boxes were the problem.

This made no sense to me since the boat was running awesome when it was running. It did not feel like it was running on three cylinders. But, I trusted the shop and OK'ed the repair. $850 later, I picked up the boat and hit the lake. SAME PROBLEM! Argh!

I returned to the shop and was given a copy of the boat's main electrical harness. The shop recommended that I start the boat at home and jiggle the wires until the boat died. I did, jiggling every wire. I could not get the problem to duplicate itself.

This year, I've had several uneventful trips to the river and to Lake Mead. I;ve been obsessed with this problem since I do not have confidence to go far from the marina out of fear the boat will leave me stranded. I even bought tow insurance to ensure i would not get stranded.

I thought I might have a fuel problem since the boat dies all of the sudden, with no sputtering or rough runnning. I ordered a new fuel pump relay and installed it.

I hit the lake (Sunday morning), eager to see if the problem was resolved. The boat ran perfect for an hour and a half. I've never had so much fun with the boat. I thought I had solved the problem! Then the boat died just like before. It started up just like before. I headed back to the marina, fearing the problem would continue to get worse like the year before and leave me stranded. And, just like last year, I barely made it to the no wake zone and the boat died and would not start back up.

I tried waiting, I tried switching the battery switch off and back on. I tried and tried. The boat cranked but would not start. It would sputter a bit at first and die but then it would just crank and crank. Another enthusiast towed me in.

I figured the age of the boat justified a new fuel pump so I ordered and installed one (Tuesday night). The boat started right up in my driveway.

Wednesday, I hit the lake again (COVID-19 quarantine has cut into my work load). The conditions were rough and I had three 200 pound boys in the boat. We tried tubing and the boat died just like before. It started right up just like before. However, this time the progression to total no start was much faster than before.

I did notice the tachometer did not show any RPMs when I tried to crank the boat. Since my son was with me, he confirmed the impeller was engaging when cranking and confirmed the fuel pump felt like it was engaging when the starter was engaged.

The boat would crank and crank, but not start.

The boat tow insurance paid off as the Lake was not busy and we had to gt an official tow -- $0.00 charge.

I downloaded the Mercury Service Manual for the boat and started digging. I figure the problem must be spark since (1) the fuel system has been 100% replaced and (2) the boat is carburated (fuel and air). I also though the problem bust be with a component or wire before the ignition is split to the two 3 cylinder banks.

I wonder if my Sunday trip to the Lake at WOT for an hour plus has accelerated the demise of the culprit component (the ignition trigger? the voltage regulator?)?

Any thoughts?

I've see a lot about the temperature sensors on these boats. The sensor appears to work since it beeped at me when I started the boat in the driveway.

I removed the oil injection system and I run 50:1 premix. I'm using Pennzoil XLS.

Any ideas?

I'm happy to pay you for your time. I can Zelle or PayPal you if you'd be willing to maybe talk about this be phone?

I'm in Las Vegas.

Michael

702.336.4552

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Participants2Replies0Last reply dateJul 24, 2020Last reply fromMikum1968
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1. [IMG alt="Dr Honda"]https://www.seadooforum.com/data/avatars/s/15/15851.jpg?1513547890[/IMG]
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2. [IMG alt="Mikum1968"]https://www.seadooforum.com/data/avatars/s/96/96806.jpg?1560657373[/IMG]
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[poppie]

It could be as simple as your safety kill switch. I have mine unplugged under the helm since it seems a little silly to have. Try unplugging it and see what happens. If it turns out to be the problem and you would rather keep it the part is cheap and installation is quick and easy.

 

[poppie]

Also check the black with yellow stripe wire. This is the kill wire. If its chafed any where and grounds out your engine will die instantly.

 

[dblackstone]

Now that you have it posted someone will likely be able to help you with the issue.

 

[Mikum1968]

Also check the black with yellow stripe wire. This is the kill wire. If its chafed any where and grounds out your engine will die instantly.

Thank you Poppie. I found an internet resource suggesting i unplug the ground from the switch packs next time it happens and see if the ground is at fault. A new switch and harness is only 160.

I'll hit the lake Saturday and see if the ground is my problem..

 

[Mikum1968]

It could be as simple as your safety kill switch. I have mine unplugged under the helm since it seems a little silly to have. Try unplugging it and see what happens. If it turns out to be the problem and you would rather keep it the part is cheap and installation is quick and easy.

As far as i know, the kill switch was bypassed by the previous owner. I've never attached a lanyard. Thank you.

 

[Mikum1968]

Now that you have it posted someone will likely be able to help you with the issue.

Thanks brother!

 

[Dr Honda]

OK..... first.... STOP PUTTING CHEMICALS IN THE FUEL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

They are solvents, and WILL displace the oil. In turn, shortening the life of the engine. Only thing that should go in the fuel is a good stabilizer to keep things fresh, and to help pass water. (I use Marine Sta-Bil)

Second... From your story... the stator was fine. If it was on 3 cyls... it would not peak at 5700. Probably 3700 to 4000 tops. BUT... the system doesn't run like that... it would be 2cy' at a time if it was a trigger... and unlikely a single cyl would go bad due to a bad ignition coil, since they ballast each other. SO... as normal... and as you can see in my signature line... ALL SHOPS SUCK !!!!!

I hope the shop gave you your old parts back... because they are still good !!!!

Third... stop paying for labor that is obviously retarded !!!

And finally............. From this end of the keyboard.... I'm guessing you have a bad lanyard post. They go intermittent, and do exactly what you are describing. (engine dies like someone flipped a switch) OR... you have a bad throttle guardian. Either way... that boat is big enough to not need them. Cut the lanyard loose.... and look for the guardian. If you see it... cut all the wires, and tape the ends.

 

[Mikum1968]

Thanks Dr. Honda!

I discovered yesterday that the kill switch is connected but I've never used a lanyard. Weird.

The kill switch connects via a 2 wire harness. Can i just disconnect it?

Michael

 

[poppie]

Just unplug the harness and your good to go.

 

[Mikum1968]

I did it, the boat started up just fine. Thank you!

 

[Mikum1968]

Super weird the kill switch was never unplugged, no lanyard has been installed since the day i bought it and the boat was running (with the intermittent stalling issue) . Hope this is the end of my frustration with the boat's unpredictable stalling problem.

 

[Dr Honda]

Did you look for a throttle guardian? It's going to be a small black box with (as I recall) 5 wires coming out of it. It will normally be in the helm, behind the steering wheel... or where your fuse block is. My islandia started doing the same thing as yours after having it for 3 or so years. Disconnected both.... been perfect ever since. Besides... the way I see it is... if I get thrown off a 22' boat... I have other worries other than if I was wearing my lanyard. LOL. On my old 14.5' speedster... I always had it on.

 

[Mikum1968]

I saw a small black box mounted behind the drivers console. What does a throttle guardian do?

Is this little box (attached photo) the throttle guardian?

If it is, all I do is unplug it?

Michael

 

[Mikum1968]

OMG! Look at this rats nest I found inside the driver side console!

 

[Mikum1968]

Did you look for a throttle guardian? It's going to be a small black box with (as I recall) 5 wires coming out of it. It will normally be in the helm, behind the steering wheel... or where your fuse block is. My islandia started doing the same thing as yours after having it for 3 or so years. Disconnected both.... been perfect ever since. Besides... the way I see it is... if I get thrown off a 22' boat... I have other worries other than if I was wearing my lanyard. LOL. On my old 14.5' speedster... I always had it on.

I looked on the parts schematics and did not find that little black box that can be seen through the drivers side cup holder opening.

Based on the shenanigans of the previous owner, i wonder if that little box had something to do with the stereo. Seems odd.

Michael

 

[Mikum1968]

Did you look for a throttle guardian? It's going to be a small black box with (as I recall) 5 wires coming out of it. It will normally be in the helm, behind the steering wheel... or where your fuse block is. My islandia started doing the same thing as yours after having it for 3 or so years. Disconnected both.... been perfect ever since. Besides... the way I see it is... if I get thrown off a 22' boat... I have other worries other than if I was wearing my lanyard. LOL. On my old 14.5' speedster... I always had it on.

Here are a few L

Did you look for a throttle guardian? It's going to be a small black box with (as I recall) 5 wires coming out of it. It will normally be in the helm, behind the steering wheel... or where your fuse block is. My islandia started doing the same thing as yours after having it for 3 or so years. Disconnected both.... been perfect ever since. Besides... the way I see it is... if I get thrown off a 22' boat... I have other worries other than if I was wearing my lanyard. LOL. On my old 14.5' speedster... I always had it on.

Here's a picture of the wires coming out of the box that's behind the driver side console.

 

[Dr Honda]

The throttle guardian keeps the engine from reving too high in neutral or reverse. BUT... when they start to go bad... and they will... they cause all kinds of random issues, like low revs, or random shut downs. It's not needed, and they generally aren't even shown in the manual. BUT... not all the boats got them. (Strange) The box shown looks a little fat to be it... but the sticker is missing. If one of the wires is black with a yellow stripe... take it out. (Heck, just cut the black/yellow wire and be done)

Regardless... cleaning up any crappy wires should help.

 

[Mikum1968]

You are a beast! RPMs at 900-1000 at idle in the water. It did not die at idle once for the first time ever!. Problem solved.

The boat ran flawlessly and did not die after unplugging the 2 wire kill switch lanyard. LOOKS LIKE ANOTHER PROBLEM SOLVED!

Ill have my wife check for the colorsed wire. My color blindness is legend in the U S Military.

Thank you!

Here is a picture of the wires comi g out of that mystery box in the compartment behind the steering wheel.

 

[Mikum1968]

Did you look for a throttle guardian? It's going to be a small black box with (as I recall) 5 wires coming out of it. It will normally be in the helm, behind the steering wheel... or where your fuse block is. My islandia started doing the same thing as yours after having it for 3 or so years. Disconnected both.... been perfect ever since. Besides... the way I see it is... if I get thrown off a 22' boat... I have other worries other than if I was wearing my lanyard. LOL. On my old 14.5' speedster... I always had it on.

I think the small black box is connected to my trim tabs. That explains why it's not in the sea doo parts diagrams.

 

[Tomnguyen]

You are a beast! RPMs at 900-1000 at idle in the water. It did not die at idle once for the first time ever!. Problem solved.

The boat ran flawlessly and did not die after unplugging the 2 wire kill switch lanyard. LOOKS LIKE ANOTHER PROBLEM SOLVED!

Ill have my wife check for the colorsed wire. My color blindness is legend in the U S Military.

Thank you!

Here is a picture of the wires comi g out of that mystery box in the compartment behind the steering wheel.

Mikum,
Just reading through your thread. So when you unplug your kill switch, just simply sticking the key in and turning it will start the engine? What about the beeps or alarms?

Did you end up cutting the black and yellow wire from the picture you showed? That was the throttle guardian? And it keep your boat idle and run good?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Mikum1968]

Mikum,
Just reading through your thread. So when you unplug your kill switch, just simply sticking the key in and turning it will start the engine? What about the beeps or alarms?

Did you end up cutting the black and yellow wire from the picture you showed? That was the throttle guardian? And it keep your boat idle and run good?

Thanks in advance!

All I did was disconnect the kill switch. The other wires were part of my Lenco trim tabs (I've since gone to Nauticus Auto Tabs with unbelievable results).

 

[Tomnguyen]

All I did was disconnect the kill switch. The other wires were part of my Lenco trim tabs (I've since gone to Nauticus Auto Tabs with unbelievable results).

Thanks Mikum for the reply. I'll disconnect the kill switch and give it a try to see if anything is different on utopia. Does it affect the beeps or still give you the beep without the kill switch connected?

 

[Mikum1968]

Thanks Mikum for the reply. I'll disconnect the kill switch and give it a try to see if anything is different on utopia. Does it affect the beeps or still give you the beep without the kill switch connected?

Still get the beep.