-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
2001 Challenger 240 EFI Engine problem
- Thread starter robb67
- Start date
- Status
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Any Mercury shop should be able to service the boat. Don't bother with a Seadoo dealer since they don't support the Merc boats anymore.
As far as the loss in power.... What have you checked so far? It could be a bunch of things. Low fuel pressure, ignition issues, or a bad sensor.
As far as the loss in power.... What have you checked so far? It could be a bunch of things. Low fuel pressure, ignition issues, or a bad sensor.
biffdotorg
Active Member
It's almost condescending to make suggestions on my part without knowing what you have checked, but.
The obvious ones should be done first. Check the plug type that you replaced were exact replacements, check gap, and check that each wire was connected fully. The crazy thing to check is that the right cable went back on the right plug. I only do one at a time, but I have to ask the question as it would do what you are saying. (I feel like a computer support guy asking if the monitor is plugged in, smile)
If I remember right, when I changed mine, they were all out of spec, and the wires were on solid, so it was a tight fit getting them back on.
Good luck, report back.
The obvious ones should be done first. Check the plug type that you replaced were exact replacements, check gap, and check that each wire was connected fully. The crazy thing to check is that the right cable went back on the right plug. I only do one at a time, but I have to ask the question as it would do what you are saying. (I feel like a computer support guy asking if the monitor is plugged in, smile)
If I remember right, when I changed mine, they were all out of spec, and the wires were on solid, so it was a tight fit getting them back on.
Good luck, report back.
robb67
New Member
Thanks - I did change them one at a time so not to mix up wires. I didn't check the gap - figured they were brand new and preset. So that will be the first thing I check. I used what was specified in the manual NGK BPZ8HS-10 the plugs i replaced didn't have the -10??? Would that make a difference?
Once I check the Gap what should the next thing to check?
Thanks,
Rob
Once I check the Gap what should the next thing to check?
Thanks,
Rob
biffdotorg
Active Member
The -10 refers to the gap set at the factory. -10 is a 1mm gap, which is spec for our motor. You can buy the -15 which is a 1.5mm gap. Gap can be changed, so maybe they need to be gapped.
Mine had been collapsed somehow and had less than 1mm gap in the motor. The new ones were all set to 1mm, and ran fine out of the box.
These are a resistor plug as well, so be sure that was screwed onto the plug wire end of the plug. The first time I bought plugs for the first Yamaha Waverunner I owned, I bought plugs without resistors, not even knowing they came that way. The engine spit, sputtered and missed, until I realized what was wrong.
Good luck!
Mine had been collapsed somehow and had less than 1mm gap in the motor. The new ones were all set to 1mm, and ran fine out of the box.
These are a resistor plug as well, so be sure that was screwed onto the plug wire end of the plug. The first time I bought plugs for the first Yamaha Waverunner I owned, I bought plugs without resistors, not even knowing they came that way. The engine spit, sputtered and missed, until I realized what was wrong.
Good luck!
Scotttheimpaler
Member
"took my challenger out for first time this season" did you change the inline fuel filter located on the port side of the engine? I converted mine to a clear pastic $3.99 filter instead of the $12 merc filter.
robb67
New Member
fuel filter
No I haven't changed that. I will this weekend. Where can you get the clear plastic filter?
No I haven't changed that. I will this weekend. Where can you get the clear plastic filter?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
The clear plastic filter can be bought at any auto parts store. I've done the same thing. You just want a filter that will flow enough fuel to support 240 hp. A fram G2 is normally ok. You just don't want a little filter meant for a lawn mower. I personally like the Purolator filters. If you look in the "How to" section... I have a thread with a part number listed.
Oh... you will also need a 1/4 NPT hose barb to thread into the pump. (the old filter is threaded into the pump)
You must load the engine to test RPM's. SO... it has to be in the water.
Too much grease may cause issues, with cross fire on the wires. I would wipe up most of it, especially if it's all over the connector. Basically... you just want a little grease on the actually contacts, to keep them from corrosion.
Oh... you will also need a 1/4 NPT hose barb to thread into the pump. (the old filter is threaded into the pump)
You must load the engine to test RPM's. SO... it has to be in the water.
Too much grease may cause issues, with cross fire on the wires. I would wipe up most of it, especially if it's all over the connector. Basically... you just want a little grease on the actually contacts, to keep them from corrosion.
Scotttheimpaler
Member
I got a 5/16 male thread to barb brass adapter at my merc dealer, then a just a 5/16 barb fule filter of the self at autozone (plus 2 SS 1/2" hose clamps). It made a huge difference in my boat. That little in-line filter gets neglected far too aften.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
