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2000 xp VTS wont work

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lesliewood3

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i bought a 2000 xp a couple weeks ago...it worked fine...but one of my friends took it out and hit the water kinda hard he said...and now the VTS stopped working. i was told to check the fuse, but i am not sure where that would be located.
 
Fuse

The fuse holders is in the engine compartment. You should have to take the cover off to expose the fuses. If it's not the fuse check your vts motor under the rear cover at the back. It could have got knocked out some how or a link to it got knocked off.
 
what size fuse is supposed to be? i heard 7.5 and i heard 10? also i looked at the vts motor, looks like the motor is still in the case, but there are 2 wires that arent connected. There are also 2 wires that connect to the motor and goes out of the box.
 
when i open the box that the vts motor is inside of, there are 4 wires. 2 blues and 2 greens. 1 blue and 1 green is connected, but the other blue and the other green arent. doesnt look like there is anywhere that it was connected to. just looks like maybe they by passed it and used the other wires instead.

Also, is the vts fuse in a box that would be a nut and bolt to take it apart? in the engine compartment there are 2 black boxes. 1 i took apart and i dont see any fuses. The second requires me take the nut off to remove the box. I havent gotten around to taken it off, because i dont have any tools and it seemed weird to me that you would have to take a nut off to get to the fuse box....usually they just pop off (thats how it is on cars anyways)

should i hook up a test light on the wires that are going to the vts motor and see if they are getting power?
 
The main fuses will be on the port (left when facing forward) side and be on the mpem. It will have three wire harneses going in it and have a cover the size of a wire harness to pop off. There shouldn't be ant nut to take off. I don't know why there would be extra wires in there. If you want you can put a tester to the motor and have someone move the trim up and down.
 
Does your motor look intact? sometimes, in my case, the VTS boot will rip, and water will get in that box and fry the motor.


Also, can you hear anything when you click the buttons?


You can ALSO, hook the motor up to any 12v battery, and test it just like that. I've done it, and it didn't fry motor.
 
brock

i am not sure what the MPEM is. i thought it was the fuse box. sorry this is my first seadoo. i think maybe i am seeing the bolts that hold the box to the seadoo....maybe there is something i can pop off. as far as the vts motor. how do i know which wire is hott and which is negative. there is a green one and a blue one. also do i just use a regular test light, or do i need something special?
 
shea

You can ALSO, hook the motor up to any 12v battery, and test it just like that. I've done it, and it didn't fry motor.


the motor looks perfect...actually looks new. i dont see any signs of water damage. but the first couple times i drove the seadoo when i got it out of the water i unscrewed the plugs and water didnt really come out. the last couple times i did it...water comes...is that normal?

i dont hear anything when i click the vts button up and down.

how do you hook it up to a 12v? do i hook the green up to ground and the blue up to positive? or vise versa? or neither. sorry like i said...this is my first time. i appreciate the help though.
 
one other thing to add that i was wondering about. my friend said that when he took it out the trim was a little above middle...so he tried to tim it down and it wouldnt go down....so then he tried to trim it up and it went up....could it be the actual switch on the handle bar?
 
I just replaced the 7.5 fuse...and its didnt help....the seadoo doesnt have to be started for the vts to work does it? if not then its not working...

so if i want to check the vts using a 12v battery, do i use the green and blue wires? if so which is positive and which is negative?
 
It shouldn't matter which side you hook them to. It is a two way motor and should go up with them in one way and down when they are reversed.

It could be the vts button as well.

What part of Oklahoma do you live?

Water in your hull is going to depend on the driving conditions or it could be a leak elsewhere.
 
Yeah, it doesnt matter whats what, i just connected to small cables that looked like minature jumper cables to mine. Water is a bad sign, if that boot on the back rips your motor is toast
 
i am in moore.

it doesnt look like there is any water damage...i could be wrong....

so if i take the blue and green wires coming from the motor, and hoook it to a 12v battery and the motor turns...its the housing...if not its the motor?

is there a way to test the actual up and down switch?
 
I am new to the site and forums, trying to find help regarding my xp.. I figured this would be a good place because I bought a used 2000 sea doo xp about a month and half month ago. My vts system doesn't work either....When I put the key in my VTS gauge goes all the way up, but nothing happens when I try to press the down buttons. I have looked around at the wiring and everything seems to be connected, I don't know about the fuses...not too bright when it comes to that sort of thing.

Another problem I am having is that I can't not reach top speed...I can stay at 45 mph and a little under 50, but as soon as I try and hit 50 mph my craft boggs down. I have no idea what it could be...I looked in the manual and I looked for debris in the intake. I flushed out the craft. I want to say that the first time I took it out I got it to 55 mph but I really can't remember.

my gas gauge also doesn't work haha.
The sea doo runs fine, I just want to have it top notch. Please help, I don't want to take it to the shop because they said it would be up to 6 weeks before it's ready and that's too long!!!
 
VTS & Fuel Gauge

To start check the vts motor located under the rear cover. Then check the fuses on you MPEM located on the port side of the engine copartment. Most likley your trim is stuck all the way up due to the vts motor not working so that will cause you not to be able to reach full speed. Also check the boot to the vts and make sure it's not torn or broken. If so, water got the the motor and fried it.

As for the fuel gage, check the connection to the gage under your front storage compatment. Then check the sending unit/ fuel baffel under your seat. Use a multi meter and check the ohms on it. It should be between 1 and 90 ohms. IF that is bad it won't send a signal to the guage. Where on the gauge is the needle? Empty or full?

I hope this helps some.
 
is the "boot" on the vts the plastic covering, or is it the rubber ring? I opened that up and it does kinda look a little corroded...So what needs to be done if the motor is fried? how expensive is it?
The needle on my gas gauge stays on empty. It doesn't move when the key is in place.
thanks for the reply. I want to get this thing completely fixed asap
 
The boot looks like an accordian (see image attached number 8). If it is cracked then water got in the motor and probably shoted it out. A new motor will be about $200 and the boot around $10.

For the fuel gauge take out your upper storage compartment and check the wires in the back of the fuel gage. Unscrew the harness on the back of it and make sure that no water got in it and all of the pins are intact. If water got in it then it is probably gone too. If not most likely it is you fuel sending unit/baffel where your fule float is. It is under your seat. You can fix the little fuse in it if you are good at that kind of thing. There is a sticky in the forum to tell you how in the how-to section. If not a new sending unit is about $125
Let me know what you find out and if you need help finding parts. If you did all the work yourself it would probably take all together 3-5 hours of work.
 

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Thanks again for the input, and allowing me to steal this thread =p
I haven't really had a whole lot of time to poke around, I have just glances inside to see where everything was located.
I have decided I want to order the parts and try to do this myself. The shops around here have told me 4-6 weeks, or 2-3 weeks and about a $800 repair bill...Would the parts I need have to be specific as in to which year and model or parts just done by the model? Would I get the parts in the parts section or is there another site?
 
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