2000 xp slow fuel on start up

[Royce]

First off my XP is converted to premix has clear fuel lines with a external fuel filter as well as the stock one in the bowl.. Now when it sits for a bit fuel seems to fall back toward the tank.. It has a prime but when I prime it it does not fell like i'm doing anything the prime moves too freely.. I must crank it for a few mins as I watch the fuel slowly come from tank threw bowl filter (bowl stays full) dn threw in line filter and down to carbs once its there it fires up and runs like a raped ape!!! so long story hope I worded it good enough for you guys to help... is it the prime?? is there a type of low pressure fuel pump thats bad??

On a 2nd note the fuel gauge is out and I check the gauge it self for good connections and the correct wiring (because it has race bars and the speedo just wasn't plugged in when I got it) thats good so I assume sending unit!! Now I read in manual there is a fuel reserve that gets you another 11 mins of riding time!! is this like a motorcycle IE: when you run out you flip a switch somewhere and get enough ride time to get you home??

 

[12nvy]

Sounds like the primer has had the sword. Or it connected wrong.
The fitting in the centre of the primer goes to the carb. The one on the side of the primer goes to main fuel line. Also check the T piece in the main line is not leaking air. Zip tie them..
See how you go

 

[Chester]

I agree, you probably need a new primer.
It's actually better to T the primer in to the reserve line, as opposed to the main on line. That way you can still use the primer when you are on reserve.

Chester

 

[Royce]

??

Thank you both tonight I will make sure its hooked up right.. Chester you make good since.. but where/how can I tell where the reserve line is vs main line.. I know how a reserve pick up works on a bike (main pick up is taller then short) is this same on a ski and where is the fuel selector for res/on/off I haven't seen one??:cheers:

 

[timmyboy76]

hey Royce...might be tuff, but on topof tank, where tubes are protrud'n, where hoses attach,that plate is lebeled..res,on,vent...etc. Check out JPX's stickyonfuel baffle, you see what i'mtalk'n about.

 

[Royce]

selector

ok cool..(That thread is awesome and my next deal well be to try that and see if I can get my fuel gauge working) but is there a manual switch to go between the reserve and on/off.. such as if you ride a motorcycle (older) that doesnt have fuel a gauge you can ride tell it dies/run out of gas then turn to res and have another 2 gals or so to get home on???

 

[Royce]

along with other things I come to find out i think the fuel selector had been removed from the ski..Why i haven't a F@$%in clue!! I just took out my baffle and the lines go as follows

Main line going threw filter and to bottom left of carbs(standing on the side of motor carbs are on) is attach to the ON neck of baffle

line going straight (no filter)to top of left carb and then threw to right carb with the primer taped into it comes from RES neck of baffle

vent line is going from hull to RET

the vent is just open uncapped!!!!

and from what I see there are 3 wires at top if neck one looks to be cut close to the baffle weird because the connector is only 2 prong and all the pics I see only show 2 wires (btw light pink and pink with black are there the one that is cut appears to be some pink or red not sure because the bit still there is cover by the black heat wrap stuff where its goes into baffle)

So to update my first ? suddenly before I pulled baffle the prime fells little tighter and i primed the hell out of it and it got more pressure tell finally feeling firm then it fired up no prob... SOO now I am just trying to fix the fuel gauge (I will soon be tryin the fix it from the "how to sticky" thanks Timmy for pointing that out) and figure out if this fuel line running is ok or safe etc!!!

BTW it may me seem all wrong but it is working fine and running good should I just leave it or what please someone give me some more input... thanks guys this forum has been great help so far!!!

:ack::rofl:

 

[salmonkiller01]

I just did the fuel sender repair today, works great and easy. I soldered a piece of wire to the contacts of the blown fuse, (did not bother removing the fuse). Tested like new.

 

[Royce]

cool!! did you plastic weld the part back on you cut to get to it?? some one on that thread asked why put it back on because the whole thing is down fuel anyway... just wandering

 

[salmonkiller01]

I did plastic weld it together, but I dont think it needs to be. Some one must have tried it without welding it back up. But it was easy and cheap to fix

 

[timmyboy76]

I just did the fuel sender repair today, works great and easy. I soldered a piece of wire to the contacts of the blown fuse, (did not bother removing the fuse). Tested like new.

Right on...been debate'n to do da same, sounds like a good project for the weekend.

 

[Royce]

salmon did you cut it or open or solder it open?? if cut did you do anything about the shavings.. air hose or flush with some gas or nothing??

 

[salmonkiller01]

I used a dremel with a cutting wheel, (wear eye protection as it melts thru the plastic and melted bits of plastic fly all over). I cut three sides and then bent the plastic open to get at the blown fuse. First I took out the float then cut about a 1 inch by 1 1/2 inch opening. The side you open is opposite of where the float is. To melt it back together I used a propane torch to heat up butter knife. :cheers:

I washed the tube out with some solvent when I was done but not really nessecary as the plastic melted.

 

[Royce]

cool makes sense Ill flush with some gas or solvent and I like the butter knife man there is more than one way to skin a cat lol :stupid:

So if anybody has any ideas on running the fuel lines or leave as is let me know btw all gray lines are gone accept the vent wich I dont think matters much