I bought this seadoo in december, and took it out for the first time 2 weeks ago. It ran great no problems! then last weekend I was going to take it out but before i left i hooked it up to a hose and tried to start it... and it beeped twice like usual and then attempted to start but it was clunk clunk clunk and so i disconnected the key and retried but this time with every clunk it beeped! so i took off the spark plugs and tried starting no compression! but theirs water in the motor! but when i took it out we never rolled it up side down! everyone is stumped! please help!
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2000 seadoo xp! No start
- Thread starter cpope1989
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repieces
New Member
What I would do in your situation is remove the spark plugs, turn the motor over till all the water is out, reinstall the plugs and see if it will fire. If it fires and runs smooth for a few seconds, turn it off and hook up your flush kit with the water turned off. Then start up you seadoo and then turn the water back on. If the engine starts to die, then this will let you know water is getting into the cylinders either by a bad gasket seal or possibly a crack in one of your cylinder walls, it's doubtful but a possibility. This happened to me on my SPX and this is how I found my problem. You may want to give it a try.
ya thats what i thought because it almost sounds like it doesnt have enought power to turn it over.. so i bought a brand new interstate battery today and put it in this morning! and it does the exact same thing! and what i dont get is it ran great when i took it out never had any problems ever. I loaded it fine and everything! so something had to have happened while it sat for a week...
repieces
New Member
Try this
Ok, I understand now. I thought it was "clunking" when you were trying to start it while the spark plugs were installed. If that was the case and you knew you had water in it, then it would hydro lock and that would be the clunking you hear.
But since you say it won't turn over, even with the spark plugs removed, I would try to turn the motor by hand. I'm not sure if it's accessible, but on mine, you can turn the flywheel (at the rear of the motor) by hand. If you have the plugs removed and you can't get it to turnover by hand, then there's a good chance the motor's locked up. That's another way you could find out.
Ok, I understand now. I thought it was "clunking" when you were trying to start it while the spark plugs were installed. If that was the case and you knew you had water in it, then it would hydro lock and that would be the clunking you hear.
But since you say it won't turn over, even with the spark plugs removed, I would try to turn the motor by hand. I'm not sure if it's accessible, but on mine, you can turn the flywheel (at the rear of the motor) by hand. If you have the plugs removed and you can't get it to turnover by hand, then there's a good chance the motor's locked up. That's another way you could find out.
What kind of voltage are you getting from the battery while its trying to crank? I bought my battery from interstate and was told it was ready to install with no charging needed. Well come to find out it had a very small charge on it and needed to be put on the charger overnight. The next morning fired right up and hasn't been an issue for over a year now. Also make sure they gave you a battery with enough cca. You can try a set of jumper cables hooked to your car battery for an extra boost of power but only with the vehicle off.
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its at the shop now or else i would try that.. lets say i try to move and it wont then that means its hydro locked right? if so what do i do?
Now lets say it does move what do i do from there? sorry for all the questions im just pissed because i just bought this and it ran just fine so i dont know what i did wrong!
Now lets say it does move what do i do from there? sorry for all the questions im just pissed because i just bought this and it ran just fine so i dont know what i did wrong!
Water in cylinders.....
If you flushed your motor after last having it out, did you turn the water on first? After turning off the motor, did you turn the water off last? These are the two most often ways water gets inside your motor. The second is from towing past the safe operating speed.
I'm going to assume it's from flushing. The pressure from your water hose is greater than that of your pump normally provides. If you don't have a "bleed" off system in your cooling system, then it's even easier to overcome the rubber "O" rings in your head.
The procedure is to start the motor first, then the water. Shut the water off, then turn off the ski.
If your locked up, then you can remove the grey plastic cover on the back of the PTO side and use a pipe wrench (gently) and try with a small amount of force to turn the motor counterclockwise, with the spark plugs out. If you get it to turn, you need to spray a fogging spray (WD-40 will work fine) into the spark plug holes and keep turning to lubricate. Then, use your starter motor to continue to lubricate.
Keep it lubricated. I noticed you said you took it to, what sounds like a motorcycle shop. Are they OEM certified? From your reply about "they hadn't heard of this"........kinda scares me.
Be careful who you take these things too............good luck..:cheers:
If you flushed your motor after last having it out, did you turn the water on first? After turning off the motor, did you turn the water off last? These are the two most often ways water gets inside your motor. The second is from towing past the safe operating speed.
I'm going to assume it's from flushing. The pressure from your water hose is greater than that of your pump normally provides. If you don't have a "bleed" off system in your cooling system, then it's even easier to overcome the rubber "O" rings in your head.
The procedure is to start the motor first, then the water. Shut the water off, then turn off the ski.
If your locked up, then you can remove the grey plastic cover on the back of the PTO side and use a pipe wrench (gently) and try with a small amount of force to turn the motor counterclockwise, with the spark plugs out. If you get it to turn, you need to spray a fogging spray (WD-40 will work fine) into the spark plug holes and keep turning to lubricate. Then, use your starter motor to continue to lubricate.
Keep it lubricated. I noticed you said you took it to, what sounds like a motorcycle shop. Are they OEM certified? From your reply about "they hadn't heard of this"........kinda scares me.
Be careful who you take these things too............good luck..:cheers:
timmyboy76
New Member
back portion by the jet, under the grey shield
PTO and MAG.....
The PTO (power take off) is the rear of the engine where your splined shaft connects to the engine. When talking about the pto cylinder or carb, it's the set closest to the rear. The forward end of the motor is the MAG (magneto) side of the engine. The forward cylinder and carb is considered the MAG.
If he's a family friend, then you should be in good hands. But I've worked on the Yamaha and Suzuki (Artic Cats) engines in these brand PWC's and let me tell you, the Rotax engine is nothing like them. The only thing you can compare is the fact they are 2 cycle engines. :cheers:
The PTO (power take off) is the rear of the engine where your splined shaft connects to the engine. When talking about the pto cylinder or carb, it's the set closest to the rear. The forward end of the motor is the MAG (magneto) side of the engine. The forward cylinder and carb is considered the MAG.
If he's a family friend, then you should be in good hands. But I've worked on the Yamaha and Suzuki (Artic Cats) engines in these brand PWC's and let me tell you, the Rotax engine is nothing like them. The only thing you can compare is the fact they are 2 cycle engines. :cheers:
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