2000 LRV Oil injector lines

[Bmkseadoo32]

Hey everyone, first off THANK YOU for all of the great info on this forum, I recently purchased my first jetski, a 2000 LRV with 30 original hours but it sat for years winterized in heated storage. through reading the info here I decided to do a fuel and oil line replacement along with a carb rebuild. Had green goo in the lines and before I started reading here I ran it a few times with terrible results. So far I changed the fuel lines, fuel filter and ring, oil tank and grommet as the old tank had a crack, oil lines, oil filter, injector lines (Tygon), fuel switch, and rebuilt with the recommended carb kit and changed the lines too, no limiter in the accelerator pump line and it hadn’t been changed before. I tested pop off and it’s in spec at 21, held 10psi for a min or two like in the guide, tested compression, 150. So now I just filled up with full synthetic quicksilver, bled the feed line by unscrewing the bolt on the pump, no bubbles. I am ready to prime the injector lines but I wanted to verify how given all of the other things I have done. My plan: remove plugs and pour a cap full of premix in each cylinder, start her up, run the hose, hold the oil pump all the way open until the injector lines fill, shut off the hose and then kill the engine. Is this correct? I don’t have the fuel lines primed but I have read that I don’t need to, they will prime from the engine running on premix. Anything I am forgetting? I want to get this big boy out on the water before summer ends and I feel like I am so close and I don’t want to screw something up at this point. Hoping I didn’t do any damage when I tried to run it before reading about the maintenance I needed to do because of the old fuel lines. don’t know how you all do it on the smaller hulls, the LRV is big enough to climb in and I still struggled. Thanks again for the help!

 

[Bmkseadoo32]

Also I haven’t had it running yet to mess with the idle etc on the carbs, not sure if that will impact the injector line priming or not

 

[Stevie96xp]

What I do it take the oil pump off and spin it with a drill with the cable wide open and once I get oil to the lines it’s good I don’t like the idea of running without oil going into the oil injectors but if your running premix then you should be good. As for the idle set it to about 3k out of the water then come back and adjust it the oil pump marks again then your good to go

 

[mikidymac]

With it running at idle just hold the oil pump wide open to prime. No reason to run it on the hose at it will prime before the engine gets too hot.
I don't recommend pulling the oil pump as it can be difficult to align the plastic drive gear and could damage it.

 

[Bmkseadoo32]

With it running at idle just hold the oil pump wide open to prime. No reason to run it on the hose at it will prime before the engine gets too hot.
I don't recommend pulling the oil pump as it can be difficult to align the plastic drive gear and could damage it.

Should I just keep cranking intermittently until it fires up or add some premix to the plug holes? And then proceed to prime the lines when it’s running?

 

[mikidymac]

I pull the return line and blow into the fuel tank check-valve. This will force fuel into the fuel system and carbs. As soon as fuel comes out of the return fitting on the carbs put the return line back on. Should fire up instantly.

Putting fuel into the sparkplug holes will typically flood the engine.

 

[Bmkseadoo32]

That did the trick! Got her running, now just need to check for leaks and get the idle set! Hopefully can water test this weekend!

 

[Stevie96xp]

That did the trick! Got her running, now just need to check for leaks and get the idle set! Hopefully can water test this weekend!

Awesome good job

 

[etemplet]

What I do it take the oil pump off and spin it with a drill with the cable wide open and once I get oil to the lines it’s good I don’t like the idea of running without oil going into the oil injectors but if your running premix then you should be good. As for the idle set it to about 3k out of the water then come back and adjust it the oil pump marks again then your good to go

Spot on. I will not start an engine unless the oil lines are fully primed. I don't even like seeing even small air bubbles.

 

[Stevie96xp]

Spot on. I will not start an engine unless the oil lines are fully primed. I don't even like seeing even small air bubbles.

Yeah man same. All I see if life off the engine. When there are bubbles or no oil in the lines

 

[mikidymac]

Keep in mind these take almost no oil when idling and under no load, like a drop. So residual oil in the crankcase is plenty when the oil lines are priming.
If it makes you feel better to drop a cap full of oil down each carb you can but you won’t hurt anything if you don’t.

Some also like to premix the first tank of fuel as long as you don’t have fuel injection.

 

[Stevie96xp]

Keep in mind these take almost no oil when idling and under no load, like a drop. So residual oil in the crankcase is plenty when the oil lines are priming.
If it makes you feel better to drop a cap full of oil down each carb you can but you won’t hurt anything if you don’t.

Himmm I guess so but it’s just a safety thing for me but either way probably works just as good

 

[mikidymac]

Himmm I guess so but it’s just a safety thing for me but either way probably works just as good

Do whatever method makes you the most comfortable. That’s the correct way for you.

 

[JimTex]

Hey, I also have a 2001 LRV 951cc but mine are carbs not injection.
Ran it for the first time in 4 years. It got up to 55mph and still had little more throttle left but was going too fast for me. After I turned it off for 2 hours and wanted to go run it again but would not start only clicked. I tried jumping the solenoid it arced but no start. So I assumed the starter is bad.
Also, does anyone know about how to troubleshoot the instrument gauge nothing comes on and the fuses are all good. The shop manual says check purple wire for 12v but doesn’t mention where it is.