• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

2000 GTX RFI hesitation on takeoff why?

Status
Not open for further replies.

rkkoeb

Active Member
So my buddy picked up a 2000 GTX with RFI and it has great mid and high end power. What he notice is it has some hesitation on take off. I have not worked with RFI before so looking for ideas on what would cause this?
 
Perhaps tps is out a bit,,there are quite a few sensors,,,you may need to put a BUDs on it....is it a "lean" bog. Feels like fuel starvation,,,or a rich needs to clear itself out bog?
 
AS my esteemed colleagues before me are indicating....your problem certainly is pointing us towards a "fuel" issue. SO, the fuel system....gas tank, hoses, fuel rail, injectors. A 2000 year old machine might need a good simple cleaning of the injectors to get her going right again.

What is the provenance of the machine? Has she sat for any length of time to allow the fuel to "gum" up the works? Maybe you need to run some "fuel" treatment through the system to clean the pipes....so to speak...heh he!

ALWAYS try the simple stuff FIRST....don't assume the worst....THINK it out, work cheap to expensive.....methodically.....DON'T do too much at once either as you may solve a problem quickly but then if you did too much, you won't necessarily know what actually worked.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
how hard is it to clean the injectors?
Did you put fresh fuel into the system when you first drove it? Personally, I'd put some fuel injector cleaner into the tank and run through a tank of fuel....I use K-100 (miracle piss).....seems to do wonders as a cleaner/stabilizer....IMHO anyway!

PS...I see a moderator edited my previous post....I typed a 2000 year old machine....THAT was deliberate as a play on words.....the ski is a 2000 model year :) otherwise...it is a 21 year old machine :-P
 
I don't think you have an injector issue but you send those off for proper cleaning and testing. That would be good thing to do in any case. You may have the Throttle Position Sensor that is bad or not set properly. Induction leak. Is your check valve for the Raves functioning properly? You should not be able to blow back into it from the rave connection. Also you can check your rave valves for leakage. Lots of little things to check. Good Luck !
 
Last edited:
Did you put fresh fuel into the system when you first drove it? Personally, I'd put some fuel injector cleaner into the tank and run through a tank of fuel....I use K-100 (miracle piss).....seems to do wonders as a cleaner/stabilizer....IMHO anyway!

PS...I see a moderator edited my previous post....I typed a 2000 year old machine....THAT was deliberate as a play on words.....the ski is a 2000 model year :) otherwise...it is a 21 year old machine :p
Sorry about that, it was me. I thought you were going for 20 years, LOL.
 
I have a question on the subject of a Throttle position sensor...
While on this subject I’m checking mine now.
Rpm is staying at 6200 is the reason I started looking into that.
I read the white with black stripe wire on this plug on the tps should read around 5 vdc power till you pull the throttle to around 80% or higher and then should drop to 0 vdc power.
If not it may be able to be adjusted with the jamnut throttle cable adjuster in the storage compartment area near the fuel filter.
I thought that was just for tightness of the cable.
I tried all that and power never drops to zero no matter how I adjusted the adjustment on the cable.
So replacing the throttle cable is the next option is what I’ve read...
What is you you guys opinion on this problem?
Thank you!
 

Attachments

  • D6785FA9-C536-4A4C-B6BF-101752F7B699.jpeg
    D6785FA9-C536-4A4C-B6BF-101752F7B699.jpeg
    303.2 KB · Views: 8
  • 1F157A59-3477-410D-8177-02685FA9E41E.jpeg
    1F157A59-3477-410D-8177-02685FA9E41E.jpeg
    287.8 KB · Views: 6
  • AF70E6E2-6B2C-44B5-B1AC-44611B11C2E4.jpeg
    AF70E6E2-6B2C-44B5-B1AC-44611B11C2E4.jpeg
    202.4 KB · Views: 7
I would look down the throttle body and insure the butterfly is opening all the way. That is a simple check. Mechanically the only adjustment is the idle screw and slack in the cable. I have never checked the TPI using the method you describe. I use the resistance test from the plug on the ECM. Personally, in the 5 or 6 RFIs I've restored, I don't think the TPS was ever the issue. I have installed different ECMs and not even reset the TPS.... with no issues. LOL

I don't see any reason to replace the throttle cable unless it is the incorrect cable. If the cable worked before and it is undamaged it should work the same.

If you're at 62000 RPM I'd check the water control valve and raves for opening 100%. I'd also check the Air Pressure Sensor. The system is pretty simple.

NOTE: I'm just noticing but it might be a good idea to start your own thread. Good Luck!
 
I would look down the throttle body and insure the butterfly is opening all the way. That is a simple check. Mechanically the only adjustment is the idle screw and slack in the cable. I have never checked the TPI using the method you describe. I use the resistance test from the plug on the ECM. Personally, in the 5 or 6 RFIs I've restored, I don't think the TPS was ever the issue. I have installed different ECMs and not even reset the TPS.... with no issues. LOL

I don't see any reason to replace the throttle cable unless it is the incorrect cable. If the cable worked before and it is undamaged it should work the same.

If you're at 62000 RPM I'd check the water control valve and raves for opening 100%. I'd also check the Air Pressure Sensor. The system is pretty simple.

NOTE: I'm just noticing but it might be a good idea to start your own thread. Good Luck!
Thanks here’s the full description of what I was talking about.
It’s the 951 carb engine...2000 GTX.
I replaced the rave valve solenoid already just because it was old and easy to get to.
I have a new check valve for the case going to the rave valve solenoid. Going to replace that and the line to it today.
Just trying to get the finishing touches done because I know it’ll hit near 7000rpm at 60mph because it randomly did it a couple of times and went back down.
Then I changed the wear ring thinking it was cavitation...
It got a little better then back to 6200rpm...
Anyway I’ll keep at it!
Thanks
 

Attachments

  • EF2D2100-D871-4510-ADCD-5079D93E1B85.png
    EF2D2100-D871-4510-ADCD-5079D93E1B85.png
    672.8 KB · Views: 8
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top