Hi to everyone! I'm having problems with my ski,it starts up fine and i can idle out to the buoys and take off and it boggs down,will not go any where!I can keep pumping on the gas for about 10 seconds and then it will take off and run fine after that.If i let it sit for a little awhile and go back out it will do it again. THANKS
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
2000 GTX having problems!
- Thread starter jcdonny
- Start date
- Status
timmyboy76
New Member
Check plug condition...then compression test, make sure cylinders are even/close in psi...Then go thru fuel system...inline filter,fuel valve selector,fuel lines/clamps, and CARB/S...
It sounds like you need to remove the carburetors and clean them. If you're careful and don't tear or damage the diaphragms you won't need to buy a rebuild kit. Pay attention to the internal filters too. If you have gray fuel lines you need to replace them with black fuel lines available from auto parts stores like Auto Zone. Measure the length you need and bring a sample with you so you get the correct size. Replace one at a time so you don’t get them mixed up. If you need clamps replace them too. Use small stainless steel clamps also from the auto parts store.
Karll
Karll
If you mixed Mineral and Synthetic oil, you could have a big problem on you hands. Here is some info on oil recomemded by seadoo.
Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.
If you mixed the 2 oils together you need to drain it all out.
Here is a step by step to the oil pump oil lines;
After you drain the oil from the oil lines and refill them, you have to be sure there is no air in the lines when the engine starts up or it will cause the engine to seize up. You need to fill the oil lines back up with oil. I attach the empty lines back to tank and fill the tank. The oil line going to the oil injector pump attaches to a elbow fitting on allows the oil to flow to the pump. I let the oil drain into the oil line to the pump first and put a small cup at the end of the oil line, to catch the oil coming out of the end of full line. Attach the full oil line to the elbow on the oil pump. There is a bleeder screw on the pump. Lay a rag under the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw till the pump has oil coming out. Tighten the bleeder screw. Be sure the oil is full in the small 2 lines also. Let the oil seep out the ends of the small lines to fill the lines as best as you can. Connect the 2 small oil lines from the pump to the carburetors. Where the cable is connected is a Disk,(pump lever) that the cable is attached to. Check that the mark on the pump aligns with the mark on the disk. Apply the throttle with the ENGINE OFF and check that the cable is in sync with the oil injector cable. They should move open and close at the same time. To bleed the 2 small lines and get the bubbles out, start the engine, on the water hose. DO NOT APPLY THROTTLE. Let the engine IDLE. Turn the Disk,( pump lever) that the oil injector cable is attached to, to full open so the air bubbles travel to the carburetors and leave no bubbles in the line. Don’t run the seadoo for more than a couple minutes on the hose. Recheck all the oil lines and be sure they aren't leaking any oil. If you still have any questions give us a shout.
I hope this information helps.
Karl
Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.
If you mixed the 2 oils together you need to drain it all out.
Here is a step by step to the oil pump oil lines;
After you drain the oil from the oil lines and refill them, you have to be sure there is no air in the lines when the engine starts up or it will cause the engine to seize up. You need to fill the oil lines back up with oil. I attach the empty lines back to tank and fill the tank. The oil line going to the oil injector pump attaches to a elbow fitting on allows the oil to flow to the pump. I let the oil drain into the oil line to the pump first and put a small cup at the end of the oil line, to catch the oil coming out of the end of full line. Attach the full oil line to the elbow on the oil pump. There is a bleeder screw on the pump. Lay a rag under the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw till the pump has oil coming out. Tighten the bleeder screw. Be sure the oil is full in the small 2 lines also. Let the oil seep out the ends of the small lines to fill the lines as best as you can. Connect the 2 small oil lines from the pump to the carburetors. Where the cable is connected is a Disk,(pump lever) that the cable is attached to. Check that the mark on the pump aligns with the mark on the disk. Apply the throttle with the ENGINE OFF and check that the cable is in sync with the oil injector cable. They should move open and close at the same time. To bleed the 2 small lines and get the bubbles out, start the engine, on the water hose. DO NOT APPLY THROTTLE. Let the engine IDLE. Turn the Disk,( pump lever) that the oil injector cable is attached to, to full open so the air bubbles travel to the carburetors and leave no bubbles in the line. Don’t run the seadoo for more than a couple minutes on the hose. Recheck all the oil lines and be sure they aren't leaking any oil. If you still have any questions give us a shout.
I hope this information helps.
Karl
Last edited by a moderator:
Reed blocks...
If you do remove the carbs for cleaning as Karl suggests, take a look at your reed valves. If you remove them, hold them up to the sun and look through them from the back. You should see no light coming through. if you do, you can take them apart and reverse the reeds, get a little more life out of them. If you find one or more really bad, then I'd look at replacing the reed block in question.
If you do remove the carbs for cleaning as Karl suggests, take a look at your reed valves. If you remove them, hold them up to the sun and look through them from the back. You should see no light coming through. if you do, you can take them apart and reverse the reeds, get a little more life out of them. If you find one or more really bad, then I'd look at replacing the reed block in question.
- Status
