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2000 Challenger 2000 240 EFI M2 Sport-jet wont run (weird trigger issues)

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Jmkaufman84

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I need help!! I recently purchased a 2000 Challenger with a Mercury 240 EFI and it wont start. So far the ECU has been swapped, new High pressure fuel pump, new plugs, crank trigger, fresh oil and fuel. The boat will not start and run in or out of the water, I have verified fuel pressure and spark.

The strange part of this whole situation is that if I move the crank trigger linkage it will actuate the fuel pump briefly, if I do this repeatedly and then try and start the boat it will start and sometimes run. I have had the boat idling on the hose for 10-15 minutes, once I shut it off and then back on it would restart multiple times but eventually go back to cranking with no start. I am not sure where to go from here, any input would be greatly appreciated.

-Josh K
 
With the year of your boat... it should be a gen1 240 engine. But your description sounds like a Gen2. Please post a pic, and we can move forward.
 
IMG_0845.JPG
Here is a picture of the trigger assembly that I just broke. I have a new one ordered and will be here Tuesday.
 
Ok.

When you said... "Crank trigger" that's normally in reference to the single sensor on the Gen2. I know it's semantics... but I didn't what to start giving advice, and have it be the wrong thing.

Well.... that trigger assembly shouldn't have anything to do with the high-pressure pump being activated. You should hear the pump run, and have rail pressure just turning on the key. So... if moving the trigger turns on the pump... I would be looking at the wires around the system.
 
I understand correct terminology is important, thanks for the heads up.
I get fuel pump activation upon turning the key, also get a steady 36-40psi on the fuel rail before the pressure regulator.

I think I have an idea of where the problem may hiding, but I’m new to these motors. It seems that the ignition controller (TPM/timing protection controller?) uses the trigger signal for injector timing as well.

So I will replace the trigger assembly once it comes in, then I will chase wires. Last ditch effort will be to replace the ignition controller I suppose.Image1533562755.115675.jpg
 
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Yep. I was just talking about the ignition control with another member this morning. He's having some issues, and may have tracked it to the ignition control. The strange thing is... I've never seen them go bad. So if you, and the other member find that they are doing strange things... that may be an indication that they are starting to fail.

Please keep us up to date with what you find.
 
Quick update. I installed he new CDI trigger, set the timing and reverified spark at the plugs. Still having issues with what seems to be fuel, also still get brief fuel pump activation when moving the spark advance lever assembly back and forth rapidly.
I just ordered a new TPM (timing protection module) from CDI, PN# 144-7169. I’m not convinced it will fix anything however the wires looked brittle and slightly pulled from the box.
 
I am having a "hot start" issue. Will not re-start after running for about 30 min. Let it set for 20 min or so and it will fire right up. Will run and re-start on the hose all day. Based on your testing, what would you suggest I look at? You definitely seem to have done your homework and seem very knowledgeable.
 
Can’t say that I have a ton of knowledge on these engines, I’m fairly new to them.

However, after reading your other post I would retest the temp sensor. Instead of just dropping it into ice water;actually verify the temperature of the water and reference the reading to the chart. I would assume at room temperature you should be reading between 6-9K Ohms and not 18K.
 
I replaced the Air Temp Sensor. Didn't solve anything. LOL. Luckily it wasn't too much $$. I tested it at room temp and ice water trying to see any variation in the ohms. At room temp it read 18k, cant remember the ice water reading but it was out of spec. Port temp sensor was tested and seemed to be within spec. TY

I hope you don't get offended by me jumping on this thread, maybe we can put our heads together and figure this out. I do a boat mechanic taking a ride this afternoon with me to trouble shoot. Seems pretty knowledgeable.
 
I don’t mind. Any attention/collaboration on fixing an issue is beneficial.

I guess that would take the temp sensor out of the equation. I would think you should verify spark/fuel delivery at the time of failure. Hopefully the Mechanic can get you steered in the right direction.

My new Ignition controller should be here Monday, I will get back to troubleshooting after I get it installed.
 
"Ignition controller". That may be in my future. Do you have a part number? I don't see it in the manual.
 
I am not sure that it will solve your issues, but it does have impact on your ignition timing as well as injector timing signals.

CDI PN: 144-7169
Mercury PN: 857169-A2

It’s listed as a timing protect module or TPM.

I ordered the CDI variant from www.lowcostboatingstore.com
They drop ship directly from CDI and have the cheapest price.( plus CDI is out of Huntsville AL and that’s where I live)
 
Finally had some success.
I installed the TPM(ignition module) last night and got the boat to start. After letting it sit over night, it started on the first attempt this morning. However it still sounds a little rough.

This week I plan on going through all of the throttle/timing settings and then hopefully get this thing out on the water for a test run.
 
Good to hear. Let us know how it goes on the water. Like I said above... never really heard of that going bad on the 240.
 
Took the boat out on the water this evening.

It ran like a champ! Minus one small issue that was my fault, I forgot to tighten the nut on the timing screw. Needless to say it wouldn’t start until I re adjusted the timing.

Next up is adjusting the bunks on my trailer, this boat is a bear to load!
 
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