Hello, recently bought a 2000 240 merc that they couldnt get started. I disconected the black and yellow wire coming out of the revlimiter and she fired right up. now has a hard restart and smokes heavy even after warm up. have replaced plugs, port temp sensor, new fuel and fuel filter. After i let boat sit for about 20-30 minutes it will fire up.
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2000 240 merc smoking after warmed up and hard restart.
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islandia-duane
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Try turning on the bilge fan to vent the engine compartment.
Thanks but I always turn on the fan on before starting also while idling, and that doesn't explain the heavy smoke while operating well after warm up. I have driven 60 miles and burnt a tank and a half of gas and half the resevoir of oil not sure what it holds exactly. Gas tank is 40 gallons. It will sometimes stall at idle and will not restart for 20-30 minutes. it is almost like an injector is sticking open.
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BigFish
New Member
I had the same issue last year. Turned out my trigger was bad. Replaced it and cured the stalling at idle and no restart till cold. However I had a second issue, I was still ripping through gas and oil. Smoking like crazy to the point people asked if I was on fire. Tested my TPS. It was junk, a whopping $530.00 for a new one and it drives like a different boat! The money I spent on the tps I will save in fuel and oil in a matter of a few weeks!
BigFish
New Member
You don't need the special tool. I was able to back probe the sensor while it was still connected. First start by disconnecting the port side head temp sensor, key on, using a dvom. Set it to D.C. Volts. Measure the voltage at idle across the brown and blue wires. You should have .25v at idle and max of 7.46v at wot. Also monitor the voltage during a throttle sweep. Be sure it's a nice dressing increase and that it doesn't drop or jump at all. Let me know what you come up with!
BigFish is correct. No special tool required, just a common volt meter. I have had the exact same problem. There are many threads here about testing the TPS.
However, the test harness about $20 sure does make adjustment easier.
I have checked prices of TPS units on Rock Auto and the most expensive I found was about $120. No reason for Merc to charge over $500 for a $25 unit. But they have it and you don't......
However, the test harness about $20 sure does make adjustment easier.
I have checked prices of TPS units on Rock Auto and the most expensive I found was about $120. No reason for Merc to charge over $500 for a $25 unit. But they have it and you don't......
throttle sensor was at .1v idle and 3.8v wot and very jumpy when accelerating. I got 1000ohms on each test on the trigger spec says 1100-1400ohms. The trigger has a cdi logo on the harness is that oem? if not i guess test for trigger resistance could be off. Cheapest i found a tb is $500 and a trigger for $100.
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BigFish
New Member
Sounds like both are bad. If it were me, before spending any more money on it I would do a quick compression test. If your compression is low, it can cause all the same issues, especially the excessive smoke and the hard restart. Your compression should be in the 125 range but and all relatively equal. Once you determine the motor is good, replace the trigger adjust the tps so it's at .25v at idle and run the boat in the water. It has to be in the water and at full operation temperature to determine if the smoke is still excessive. Keep in mind it's a two stroke and it will smoke some. It shouldn't billow smoke though. If your still smoking after the compression test and trigger and you have replaced the port side temp sensor. Bite the bullet and replace the tps. Your at idle reading of the tps is low which means lean. The higher the voltage the more rich. Good luck and keep us posted.
Compression is great that was tested before anything. I tried adjusting the tps and would turn it a hair and it would jump to 3v. I have a friend with an extra one i am going to test his tomorrow. I ordered a trigger. I found the enrichment valve to be 180degrees out and fixed that. I will let you know how it runs after the trigger and tps are replaced. Any tips on pulling the flywheel?
Hi Tim75. this is more of a question than a comment.. I have been searching this forum for what I think is a tps sensor issue. I have found a couple posts that claim the sensors for the 2000-2001 240efi list for roughly $500 bucks. somewhere during the 2003 year the ECU was changed and they also use a crank sensor instead of a triger, and the TPS sensors from that year forward are only $125.
Can anyone confirm this?
Can anyone confirm this?
Hey just gonna chime in on the testing of the tps. I checked mine and I'm getting very sporadic readings. Is this an indication of a faulty tps? I used probes went into the blue and brown wires. Turned the tps and the readings started at 0 but jumped up and immediately disappeared to 0 again. Am I supposed to be doing this with the main throttle?
BigFish
New Member
It sounds like you might be doing something wrong, or your not getting a good connection when your testing it. Make sure you have the tps plugged in, and the port side temp sensor disconnected with the key on. You should get some kind of a reading even if your tps is junk.
You start the test in the idle position and take the measurement. You should be .25v at idle. Then slowly raise the throttle all the way to full throttle. The high reading should be as high as 7.46v at wot. Also the reading should increase slowly as you increase throttle position. If it is jumpy at all, the tps is junk.
Let me know if you have any other questions, I assume you are having ex easier smoke issues and high fuel consumption???
Aaron
You start the test in the idle position and take the measurement. You should be .25v at idle. Then slowly raise the throttle all the way to full throttle. The high reading should be as high as 7.46v at wot. Also the reading should increase slowly as you increase throttle position. If it is jumpy at all, the tps is junk.
Let me know if you have any other questions, I assume you are having ex easier smoke issues and high fuel consumption???
Aaron
So far I've changed the solenoid, spark plugs , port side temp sensor. I was gonna look at the trigger but I'm not too thrilled about removing the flywheel in case I mess up the timing. But from what I've read since it cold starts but not hot the next thing would be the tps due to it flooding the cylinders. I'm at a loss right now
BigFish
New Member
This is a common issue, test the trigger. I had the same issue your having as well as excessive smoke. The trigger fixed my no start when hot issue. I would have to wait 20-30 minutes sometime till it cooled off before it would start again. The wires on my trigger were all corroded at the connector. So I didn't have to bother testing mine.
Don't be scared of the flywheel. It pops right off. You just need to use an impact gun on the center bolt and use a harmonic balancer puller to pop the flywheel off. You never touch anything with the timing. If I can attach some pictures I will.
Don't be scared of the flywheel. It pops right off. You just need to use an impact gun on the center bolt and use a harmonic balancer puller to pop the flywheel off. You never touch anything with the timing. If I can attach some pictures I will.
Interesting.
I did add the new TPS, and new port temp sensors and killed the guardian. that did helped it idle and and start when cold. huge improvement.
If I stop when hot, and then restart... it starts just fine. BUT... if I actually stop, and let it start to cool, but still warm... it just barely catches and dies.
Long story even longer.
Last year it was rear ended while on the trailer.
I had been chasing smoking for 2 years with the seadoo dealer.
Insurance company demanded I use a Cert Merc Mecanic for the diagnostics.
I actually felt great with him, he opened the hood took one look at the motor and said that SEADOO had the oil injector linkage upside down. (no more smoking)
he tested a bunch of things and ended up ....
6 rebuilt injectors
Found the stator to be faulting... replaced that. (If he missed the trigger, I am going to be pretty upset)
Rebuilt the Fuel Pump
New Fuel filters
Just would not idle when I got it back.... and lost it all last season.
it is much better at the moment when cold, but hates keeping an Idle when warm.
Lot sure how to describe this, but going to take a shot.
When new at idle it had a sort of Harley Davidson Thump to it.. Bap bap bap ... bap
Now it is far smoother and seems to be just hanging on to an idle .. even with the idle at about 1200
I did add the new TPS, and new port temp sensors and killed the guardian. that did helped it idle and and start when cold. huge improvement.
If I stop when hot, and then restart... it starts just fine. BUT... if I actually stop, and let it start to cool, but still warm... it just barely catches and dies.
Long story even longer.
Last year it was rear ended while on the trailer.
I had been chasing smoking for 2 years with the seadoo dealer.
Insurance company demanded I use a Cert Merc Mecanic for the diagnostics.
I actually felt great with him, he opened the hood took one look at the motor and said that SEADOO had the oil injector linkage upside down. (no more smoking)
he tested a bunch of things and ended up ....
6 rebuilt injectors
Found the stator to be faulting... replaced that. (If he missed the trigger, I am going to be pretty upset)
Rebuilt the Fuel Pump
New Fuel filters
Just would not idle when I got it back.... and lost it all last season.
it is much better at the moment when cold, but hates keeping an Idle when warm.
Lot sure how to describe this, but going to take a shot.
When new at idle it had a sort of Harley Davidson Thump to it.. Bap bap bap ... bap
Now it is far smoother and seems to be just hanging on to an idle .. even with the idle at about 1200
BigFish
New Member
So I can't figure out how to add pictures to the forum, the trigger is a crank sensor. So I suspect you're not getting spark or it's not enough spark to fire. I work on cars and it's typical when I crank sensor goes bad it will act up when the engine is hot. You do not need to pull the flywheel to do the test though. The wire for the trigger comes out from under the flywheel and plugs in close to the back of the boat on top of the engine. It is a black 6 pin connector.
Hahah yeah it's a catch 22 I guess. Happy I don't have to drop that money bust sad I still haven't fixed my problem, I just checked the trigger resistance with my ohm meter and at the 20k setting it's showing me 1052 on all. The specs on the manual show I should get anywhere from 1100-1400. The wires are pretty saturated from the harness to the point I can squish the rubber coating with my probe. I was going to try and remove the flywheel but after I got the bolt of it wouldn't budge. Gonna rip to the parts shop and see if they have a flywheel puller I can rent. So I guess my point is that... the boat will start cold because it doesn't need much spark to ignite the fuel due to the efi and temp sensor giving the cylinders more fuel when it's cold but when it's hot there isn't as much fuel so the trigger isn't creating enough spark to fire up again? I'm pretty mechanically inclined but this is all Greek to me
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