2 stroke pwc oil discontinued?

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95sportster

95sportster

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I know this is a topic that's been beaten to death but I could not find the specific answer when searching. I used to use the quicksilver pwc synthetic BLEND 2 stroke oil that came in the gray bottle with the pink graphics on it. I've been using it for years but now it looks like no one sells it anymore. It looks like it might be discontinued. I ended up finding it at online at west marine and ordered it but what they sent me is "Quicksilver PWC 2 stroke oil FULL Synthetic". I suspect because it really is no where to be found. Normally I wouldn't fret over synthetic blend vs full synthetic but nowhere on the container does it say low ash or acpi standards. This is what it says on the bottle "for use in oil injected or premix applications". "Meets the needs of all 2 stroke PWC and sport boat engines" and "exceeds Jaso FD and ISO EGD".

Is this OK to use in my 657x? And/or what is the replacement for the quicksilver pwc synthetic blend that I can't find anywhere?
 
honestly I would stick to the oil that states the proper standard. as far as I was told there really is a material difference
 
So does no one use any oil from the Quicksilver line anymore? I can't stick to what I was using before as it can't be purchased anymore.
 
95sportster said:
So does no one use any oil from the Quicksilver line anymore? I can't stick to what I was using before as it can't be purchased anymore.
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I'm a bit in the same bind and I only buy the Bombardier stuff (synthetic)...

Our rotax (587 657/657x, 717) without the Rave valve can operate well on the mineral oil, and the newer Rotax 2 strokes need the synthetics because of the Rave valves

in all cases, they need the API TC rating of low ash and not ashless...

So long story short, I use Bombardier, but basically any mineral or synethic based 2 stroke ash API TC oil will work, which is still Incredibly popular due to the number of 2 stroke Sleds out there

Marine grade grade (low or no ash) TCW3 is bad
 
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jknightg said:
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I believe you that you've never had an issue, however there is a lot of opinions on this. I purchased some of this type, then saw the label on the oil filler cap that said don't use it. I took it back and got the low ash API TC oil. I tried to get confirmation on the internets, some like you never had an issue and others had strong opinions against it. I believe if you have any type of power valve, it may cause problems from buildup was my take away. Personally I just followed the OEM recommendation, but I don't deny exceptions to the OEM recommendations.
 
Steelmesh said:
I believe you that you've never had an issue, however there is a lot of opinions on this. I purchased some of this type, then saw the label on the oil filler cap that said don't use it. I took it back and got the low ash API TC oil. I tried to get confirmation on the internets, some like you never had an issue and others had strong opinions against it. I believe if you have any type of power valve, it may cause problems from buildup was my take away. Personally I just followed the OEM recommendation, but I don't deny exceptions to the OEM recommendations.
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its funny... my mechanic was telling me that he runs whatever is TCW3 oil is cheapest in his Seadoos... but the more people I talk to, say the Rotax (all Rotax) is not a conventional outboard designed with emissions in mind

The Rotax airplane engine prefers an ashing oil, which is why the same oil for an air cooled sled, works for a open looped Seadoo
 
I guess it's one of those debates that will rage on [emoji106]
Personally I think Seadoo just prefer you to buy their expensive oil
I've never used it and as i say never had a problem
As for emissions, I am an ex engine designer, and frankly any 1998 two-stroke wasn't really designed with emissions in mind :-)
 
jknightg said:
I guess it's one of those debates that will rage on [emoji106]
Personally I think Seadoo just prefer you to buy their expensive oil
I've never used it and as i say never had a problem
As for emissions, I am an ex engine designer, and frankly any 1998 two-stroke wasn't really designed with emissions in mind :-)
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probably... but probably not

I think honestly API TC lawnmower oil will work on any 587/657/567x/717 no problem
 
Yes. That was discontinued about 2 years ago. Walmart was blowing it out at $18 gallon when it was discontinued and I drove to every Walmart within 120 miles of me and bought about 10 gallons!
 
omboli said:
I have used the bombadier xps 2 stroke synthetic for 21 years on my GSX and GTI and they are still running strong

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Sea-Doo Forum mobile app
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Is the oil mentioned is the 2-TEC oil?
I just bought this oil but i’m not sure if is the right kind
 

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RogerS said:
Is the oil mentioned is the 2-TEC oil?
I just bought this oil but i’m not sure if is the right kind
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Yep, that will work. That replaces the yellow bottle of the XPS. Not sure why they still offer both. I just ordered 3 gallons from Amazon for $138.00 shipped, but it's the yellow bottle.
 
The Academy sports near me stocks the mystic Jt4 API TC full synthetic low Ash pwc oil but it looks almost identical to the TC-W3 so you gotta be careful, but it was only $24 a gallon
 
Tonysturbo said:
Yep, that will work. That replaces the yellow bottle of the XPS. Not sure why they still offer both. I just ordered 3 gallons from Amazon for $138.00 shipped, but it's the yellow bottle.
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Ok, i was not sure if i got right or wrong oil
I only used the boat twice in the lake and i have notice lost of power and heavy white smoke... i think i have a bad crank seal, i eas think may be caused by this new oil...
 
The new oil is the same as the old Yellow bottle, just new packaging. Do not mix oil brands as they can gel and clog the oil pump then no oil to the engine.

Don't listen to just any idiot, never put anything in a seadoo that says TCW-3 anywhere on the bottle period! It is the wrong oil no matter what has "worked for me" joe mechanic says. The TCW-3 has been seen to cause the inner crank seals to leak not the correct API-TC oil. THe inner crank seals do eventually leak with age and the only fix is a reman crankshaft.
 
You can run that in the 720 and smaller engines. All 787 and 951 engines require Full Synthetic and that is a blend.
 
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