• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

2 different BRP oils?

Status
Not open for further replies.
NX EXA

NX EXA

New Member
I'm wanting to get the TC-W3 oil out of my Doo so I'm placing an order to get oil and the strainer. Seadoo.com is listing two types of XPS oils (2-stroke). One is fully synthetic and the other synthetic blend.

http://store.sea-doo.com/product/614578/293600132/_/XPS_2-stroke_Synthetic_Oil
http://store.sea-doo.com/product/614578/293600100/_/XPS_2-stroke_Synthetic_Blend_Oil

Both are rated for the RFI but the blend seems to specify the RFI. Is this a newer oil? Seems to be cheaper. Thoughts? (without creating an oil war).

Also, where is the impeller shaft reservoir and what type of oil goes in there?
 
I think you want to use the synthetic oil in that one, it has RAVE valves, right? In this case it will help keep them clean with less wear b/c it will leave a thick molasses oily film on them as opposed to a dry abrasive carbon that makes it difficult to remove them for cleaning.

You can switch between these two, I like mineral based oils from the point of view they provide better protection during storage b/c they don't absorb moisture and they retain on cold surfaces better, but the synthetics will keep the engine cleaner, like around the ring lands, where problems can develop if too much varnish forms.

Find your owners manual, it will explain which oil BRP recommends.

For the impeller shaft reservoir, which is just aft of the impeller, I use mercury marine synthetic gear oil for stern drives, BRP synthetic jet pump oil is the factory fill. These are basically an SAE 90 weight gear lube designed for marine environments where water contamination can become an issue.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Older ski's use mineral and newer use synthetic you can't mix them,someone will post with the right info I'm sure.
 
Right, it's not a good idea to mix unknown oils although I've never seen the "clumps" that people claim can form in the oil lines and tank.

The two BRP oils can be mixed, you can switch between the two if you decide. I would try not to mix them 50:50 or something like that, I'd run the tank down first b/c that's how I am.
 
Yes, mine does have the RAVE in it. Full synthetic it is. I guess it's time to tinker and remove the old oil .....well, once I get the new oil sent to me. :facepalm:
 
Do ya' think the blended is worth the difference in price? Just put new top end in the xp will break in with dinosaur but after?
 
slotcsx said:
Do ya' think the blended is worth the difference in price? Just put new top end in the xp will break in with dinosaur but after?
Click to expand...

I like the idea of break-in with dino, but I'm not sure it's necessary considering you baby a 2 stroke during break in. You're running it easy, so just about any 2 stroke oil should provide lubrication. Where the synthetic really shines is keeping varnish deposits down, esters are really good at keeping things clean and the esters have a considerably stronger film strength that might make the difference if you happen to get near seizure. Hopefully you won't come close, but some engines are tuned on the lean side so the extra inch of protection can make the difference. Break-in should be easy running and hopefully if the carbs are tuned properly, etc., not generate enough heat to stress the oil film. So, if it was me, I'd just go with whatever the final oil will be or if the engine remanufacturer has a preference then use that so there'll be no questions, he's the one who toleranced the engine, so he knows why he wants it done a certain way.

Quite the opposite of a turbo 4 stroke motor where you need to do a few WOT's right away, or else the rings never seat, dino does the trick there.
 
slotcsx said:
Do ya' think the blended is worth the difference in price? Just put new top end in the xp will break in with dinosaur but after?
Click to expand...

The RAVE engines run XPS-II from day one. Don't break in with Dino.

I'm not starting an oil debate but new Vettes come from the factory filled with Mobil-1 since 93', IIRC. Your XP is like a Vette:coolgleam:

EDIT: Just saw you have an older NON RAVE engine, just stick with the DINO in that one. My bad, that's what I get for skimming.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The new "Black Bottle" oil is fine in the 800 engines. (it's the blend)

Basically they have 3 oils now.

White bottle = Mineral
Balck = Synth blend
Yellow = Full Synth




You can run either the black or yellow bottle.
 
Right, why debate oil? What's the point? I didn't realize we were debating, LOL! Okay, you want to use something cheaper, or less of the good stuff? How much is enough, and what about using one of the miracle 50:1 oils? Has your buddy down the street that uses the cheap DINO stuff but constantly runs into crank problems been using it, so why is he throwing a new crank in there every year? Why does he keep experiencing engine failures? It should work fine, right?

Has anybody ever broken an engine from using too much oil? How much is too much? What works? Why can't I cheap out on the ratio and run 50:1 like it says right on the bottle? Why not ask an actual professional who knows?

http://www.bridgestonemotorcycle.com/documents/oilpremix6.pdf

Meanwhile I'll be thankful we still have XPSII available, and it works. So yeah, there's just not much point in debating it of course, put the right stuff in there and do it the way it's proven to work and your chances of success are greater, done. Go ride.

Some people want to understand exactly why though, and that shouldn't be discouraged. It's not a debate, do what your going to do.
 
Doesnt a jug of oil last most people a summer? Even if you use two jugs a summer thats still not much money... Run the good stuff. If you can't afford a few more dollars a year then you shouldnt even own any toys
 
Pointhunter75 said:
Doesnt a jug of oil last most people a summer? Even if you use two jugs a summer thats still not much money... Run the good stuff. If you can't afford a few more dollars a year then you shouldnt even own any toys
Click to expand...


LOL you're cute... I burned, 14 GALLONS this summer, AND COUNTING. (all XPS-II),

Of course I have 4 skis and run almost every night all summer and weekend...

I get mine on eBay, $45, free ship. Leaders Marine I think.
 
Pointhunter75 said:
Doesnt a jug of oil last most people a summer? Even if you use two jugs a summer thats still not much money... Run the good stuff. If you can't afford a few more dollars a year then you shouldnt even own any toys
Click to expand...

SabrToothSqrl said:
LOL you're cute... I burned, 14 GALLONS this summer, AND COUNTING. (all XPS-II),

Of course I have 4 skis and run almost every night all summer and weekend...

I get mine on eBay, $45, free ship. Leaders Marine I think.
Click to expand...

Sqrl.... That's a lot of oil !!!


I ride... but I'm not that hardcore.

Let's see...... I didn't ride that much this year... but I've burnt around 5 gal of oil this year.

I use Penzoil XLF in the boat... Yellow bottle in the XP, and Black bottle in the Polaris. (yes, Polaris' like Seadoo oil)
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Right, why debate oil? What's the point? I didn't realize we were debating, LOL! Okay, you want to use something cheaper, or less of the good stuff? How much is enough, and what about using one of the miracle 50:1 oils? Has your buddy down the street that uses the cheap DINO stuff but constantly runs into crank problems been using it, so why is he throwing a new crank in there every year? Why does he keep experiencing engine failures? It should work fine, right?

Has anybody ever broken an engine from using too much oil? How much is too much? What works? Why can't I cheap out on the ratio and run 50:1 like it says right on the bottle? Why not ask an actual professional who knows?

http://www.bridgestonemotorcycle.com/documents/oilpremix6.pdf

Meanwhile I'll be thankful we still have XPSII available, and it works. So yeah, there's just not much point in debating it of course, put the right stuff in there and do it the way it's proven to work and your chances of success are greater, done. Go ride.

Some people want to understand exactly why though, and that shouldn't be discouraged. It's not a debate, do what your going to do.
Click to expand...


Whoa there, please tell me that isn't toward me. I just asked the difference between two BRP oils. Nothing about using a different brand. I'm wanting to get the different brand out of my Doo.
 
Nx exa, sorry I pirated your thread I think he was aiming this toward me,because I asked if it was worth the money in a older ski to run synthetic blend. And Pointhunter I can afford what ever the F_____ I want,get off the coffee......
 
Yeah, no offense intended towards anyone, I don't understand why we can't discuss the subject. I know what I use in my motors, and I doubt anyone here can change my mind and I have no desire to try influencing anyone's decisions.
 
I'm new to pwc's only had these for 3 month's , have had 2 stroke bikes and boats over a 45 year span and try to use what's worked best for anybody willing to share info. I have searched the threads and this is the first time I have had someone say the blended brp is ok to use in pre rave rotax motors, just wanted to make sure.I opened a different thread for my own question sorry for causing the problem here.......
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Then you should have a good bit of averaged oil consumption data to share with the forum.
Click to expand...

As in oil to gas?

From a full tank of oil on my XP, it takes roughly 3 gas tanks to get to the point where the low oil light comes on. The gas tank on a XP is 14 gallons. So, at 14*3 gas, 42 gallons, consumes about a 1/2 gallon of oil. But these are all ROUGH numbers. According to www.Mint.com I spent $764 on gas last month. (Includes cars though). Anyway, that's almost an 80:1 ratio. I'd say 40:1 premix would waste a lot of oil, and be a hassle to fill on the water.
 
slotcsx said:
I'm new to pwc's only had these for 3 month's , have had 2 stroke bikes and boats over a 45 year span and try to use what's worked best for anybody willing to share info. I have searched the threads and this is the first time I have had someone say the blended brp is ok to use in pre rave rotax motors, just wanted to make sure.I opened a different thread for my own question sorry for causing the problem here.......
Click to expand...

Yeah, from my point of view it's not a question of if it's acceptable to use only the mineral, a blend, or even the full synthetic. To me, you can use any of the three in the older skis that have no power vales, according to the "API-TC low ash or better" on the oil specifications decal.

http://www.sea-doo.net/techarticles/oil/oil.htm
 
Wow! I'm afraid to say anything. But, here it goes. XP was laid up this year. Used mineral for the last four years. RAVEs are filthy! Shipping it to Full Bore for rebuild.

My Wave Runner took about 2 gallons this summer. Mineral. No engine problems yet. Does anyone know what type of oil goes in a Yamaha, or should I just look under the hood for a tag on this?
 
grhonk said:
Wow! I'm afraid to say anything. But, here it goes. XP was laid up this year. Used mineral for the last four years. RAVEs are filthy! Shipping it to Full Bore for rebuild.

My Wave Runner took about 2 gallons this summer. Mineral. No engine problems yet. Does anyone know what type of oil goes in a Yamaha, or should I just look under the hood for a tag on this?
Click to expand...

I think you should check under the hood to make sure, it might specify TC-W3 or a particular Yamalube, there are several.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Joe Go
  • Locked
97 Gts mixed 2 different oils.
Replies
5
Views
613
mikidymac
mikidymac
kybishop
  • Locked
Changing 2 cycle oils, 1998 GTS.
Replies
1
Views
729
Dr Honda
Dr Honda
Back
Top