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2 1992 seadoo xp for 600 on trailer. Engine help please and thank you

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Donnym25

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Hey everyone. Ive benn reading on here for couple of weeks trying to find the right seadoo for me. I had a budget of 600 and i found a deal i think....u guys can tell me if i did or not lol...


So i was told one worked and one is a part ski. Fired up and ran great on trailer. When i bought it. Next day i take it to the water. It wont idle in the water. It fires just fine but have to keep it revved above 1000 rpm. So i push off the dock and try to go. It bogs and dies. Do this aboit 4 times to get back to the dock.start it upet in run about 5 min then i goto take of again and is running good. Full throttle no problem. Ski goes pretty good.


Go back to dock to get my fiance to take a test ride and we hop on basicly flipped thing half way over couple times trying to get on. Dont think this ski is meant for a fat 300 lb guy and fiance lol. Water in hull now. Somehow water got in engine and wouldnt start again. Time to go home..


Get home get water out by taking plugs and cranking. Water eveywhere.. but i get it to fire agiain and runs fine on trailer. take a closer look.i found that the oil injection line was broke. I replaced oil lines. Bleed the oil the way manual says.

Now it fires up and idles fine but when i hit the gas it boggs down or backfires and then dies. I fix a problem now it runs worse.... i did move low speed screws but put them back where they originally were. I mite have turned the idle screw reaching under carbs to replace oil injection lines.i duno.


Im new to seadoos its my first one.


Compression is 90 in each cylinder but i am 75 percent sure my tester is broken.

Second ski was flooded and left with water in the head.siezed it stuck. I put oil in heads and unseized engine. It has better compression then running seadoo. 105 and 110.

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone
 

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O yea i retested compression with same tester that i assume is bad when i got home and it was still 90 each cylinder. I thought i messed up engine not getting oil
 
So if your compression is actually 90 psi that is one of your problems. It will never run correctly with it that low. You need a rebuild and I am sure the crank is tired too.
Second issue is your fuel system. The entire thing needs to be gone through with new fuel filter, ON/OFF valve and carb rebuild with only Genuine Mikuni Kits.

On the second ski it it had any water sitting in it the crank is roached even if you can turn it over.
 
Would the ski run well with no problems no hesitaion mo bogging....nothing wrong one the ski besides it wouldnt idle on the water...could the engine be blown and still run good?

I plan to rebuild carbs. I changed gas and filter....

But why once i hook up oil injection lines it starts bogging and backfiring. It was not doing this before i replaced the lines....

Second ski.... it turns over WITHOUT spark plugs in. With them in it tries but wont turn just barley quarter turn trying to start...

How would water get into the crank?
 
Found a burnt wire when i opened mpem box...


Can tbis cause backfireing?

I have the other mpem in other seadoo should i switch out? Do i have to cut wires ?
 
You need to do the basics first in this order:
1) compression test with valid compression tester to determine the health of your top end
2) rebuilding carbs with genuine Mikuni parts and going through and cleaning/replacing all fuel lines, fuel selector valve, and testing pop off pressures. Insure that the high speed and low speed screws are set appropriately
3) verifying that your oil injection system is working correctly according to factory service manual
4) replace spark plugs

Backfiring is usually indicative of a rich condition caused by too much fuel being present in combustion which tells me your carb settings are messed up.

Not running once loaded in water would seem to me like low compression which would entail a top end rebuild at a minimum. Might as well do an entire rebuild at that point.

I recommend downloading the manual for your ski and putting all settings back to stock after rebuilding parts.
 
You need to do the basics first in this order:
1) compression test with valid compression tester to determine the health of your top end
2) rebuilding carbs with genuine Mikuni parts and going through and cleaning/replacing all fuel lines, fuel selector valve, and testing pop off pressures. Insure that the high speed and low speed screws are set appropriately
3) verifying that your oil injection system is working correctly according to factory service manual
4) replace spark plugs

Backfiring is usually indicative of a rich condition caused by too much fuel being present in combustion which tells me your carb settings are messed up.

Not running once loaded in water would seem to me like low compression which would entail a top end rebuild at a minimum. Might as well do an entire rebuild at that point.

I recommend downloading the manual for your ski and putting all settings back to stock after rebuilding parts.

There seems to be a one size fits all mentality about fuel lines and petcocks on Seadoos. This post is meant to set some things straight. 92 models do not have grey tempo fuel lines , they never did , therefore they don't have the fuel line issues that the later models had. I have pulled many petcocks off of 92 and older boats to find they worked perfectly and I installed them on newer model skis to get them out the door.

What needs to be checked on the 92 model is the carbs of course if it has been setting for any length of time , the fuel drop tube and check ball systems in the fuel tank and the oil pump small feed lines going to the engine

Lead me no down the wrong path for I can easily choose that path myself.
 
Ok so i think it is carb settings also....on the bottom of the carb is a screw wiyh a t to help spin it. I thot this was the idle screw so i tried adjusting it but i believe its the low speed idle which would cause my backfireing problems .right?. I tried to set it to 1 and quarter turns out from set like factory settings say. Got a little better but still backfireing.

I did not turn the second carb low speed idle. Should i fully seat it and count the turns and set the second one where the originally was?? Or will they be different? And just have to find the sweet spot?....wasnt back fireing before i changed low speed screw....which i thot was idle screw...

The high speed is the one that will only turn a quarter turn right.?i moved those also but put them back to 0 where they were.

So is the idle screw the one without a handle to turn just a flat head screw or wat?

Im ****in stupid i kno....i should have never turned low speed screw
 
Honestly, there are so may variables in the fuel system that it's hard to pin it down to the turn of a screw and I'm not very familiar with your carb set up. We've given some good suggestions of things to check here. I would recommend going through your fuel system as indicated in the posts above and also from WFO Speedracer's recommendations. Get the manual and get intimate with your carbs. They will love you back when you show them some loving.
 
Found out that burnt wire in the mpem was burned all the way inside the flywheel case.i followed it. With 3 wires in the same heat shrink tubing. It most likey shorting between the wires now. Whould that cause the stuff going on...if not its still a problem....

Is my stator probably burnt up also?. Whicb would mean i have to pull enginge and take fly wheel off to get to it right....ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh man i shouldnt have bought these stupid things even tho the trailer is probably worth 600 alone... i think... i just want it running the way it was.
 
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Checked compression with a good tester

140 both cylinders!!!! WooooHoooooo

Burnt wires caused rectifier to blow out. Changed it and no more back fire.

Still not idleing right. Goin ? To take the carbs apart and clean them tonight
 
So the seadoo ran perfect for about 4 hours no issues.

So bad rectifier

And rebuit carbs

Good to go now. Thanks everyone
 
There seems to be a one size fits all mentality about fuel lines and petcocks on Seadoos. This post is meant to set some things straight. 92 models do not have grey tempo fuel lines , they never did , therefore they don't have the fuel line issues that the later models had. I have pulled many petcocks off of 92 and older boats to find they worked perfectly and I installed them on newer model skis to get them out the door.

What needs to be checked on the 92 model is the carbs of course if it has been setting for any length of time , the fuel drop tube and check ball systems in the fuel tank and the oil pump small feed lines going to the engine

Lead me no down the wrong path for I can easily choose that path myself.
I'm not seeing any check valve in the micro-fiche parts view. It appears the pickup filters are just filters. I'm having what appears to be a fuel delivery issue and am wondering about flow backwards and fuel pressure.
 
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