• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

1999 XP Limited dies at WOT

Status
Not open for further replies.
T

THutch

New Member
I am new to the forum and want to thank everyone in advance for the info that is here and any help they can give on my problem.

I have a 1999 Sea-Doo XP Limited. It has always run well and is fully stock. I recently rolled it and got a lot of water in the engine compartment. After draining the bilge and getting all the water out of the cylinders, I fired it up. It runs good as long as I don't go above 3/4 throttle. Once I open it up, wide open throttle, it just dies. It seems like it isn't getting enough gas or oxygen at that level. Any ideas?
 
Welcome to the seadoo forum THutch. I would check the wire connectorea and spray them with wd-40. Wd-40 will disapate any water that might be lurking in the wire connectors. I would look at the gas tank vent line to see if it is pluged with anything, or has water in it. Give it a once over and let us know what you find. Keep us posted.

Karl
 
Thanks KustomKarl. You don't think it is likely fuel line/filter or carborater issue? Those are the first things that came to mind for me. One last thing, where is the connectorea? Thanks for the help. I'll keep you posted, hopefully with good news.
 
Roll over...

You say you rolled it over and got water in the engine. Since the 951 (or 947, which ever you like to call it) does not have the rotary valve, there is some possibility that the density of the water moving through the "reed" valves have caused them to lose clearance.
I don't believe there is any sensor that could be affected by roll over. The reed valves have a very close tolerance and are normally operated with a mist of fuel and air. If the water was able to be sucked in before the engine went dead, then they could have bent the reed valves out of spec.
Karl is a premium member, he may be able to give you the tolerances to the reed block for the XP.......
 
Thanks Skatman. Is this something I can check/fix on my own? I had given thought to spraying some carb cleaner into the carbs? Would this be wise or am I out to lunch?
 
Reed blocks....

These are to difficult to get to but I would want to be sure I've checked everything else before diving into it. The most difficult part will be to break the Loctite bond on the bolts. Once your broken the bolts, the reed blocks will come out as two pieces. One for each carb. The reed blocks are like the intake valves of your car. If one is bent, then you'll have bad performance from the engine. Bad enough and you'll probably also get backfiring.
The reeds are suppose to lie flat on the block. You check it by holding it up to the light and looking through it. If you see light, then you got a bent reed. They can be removed, turned around and put back on. That way, the bent end is facing down.
It's not to hard, but I'd make sure you've exhausted all other ideas as to what the problem is.
I say make sure before you go into it but if you sucked in water and now you've got this problem and you've made no changes to the carbs setting or anything else, this might be where you end up.
I'll also assume your not getting any codes or beeps to tell you there is any other problem. There are some codes that will limit the ski's operation to 5000 rpm.........so, make sure before jumping into the reed valves. :cheers:
 
I'm not getting any beeps. I also suspect the motor did suck in water when it was running. I'm not sure but this may very well be the issue. I have a few hours tomorrow to focus on this thing so I'll try to get some feedback thursday or Friday for others input. I don't know enough about these reeds so this may be a job that gets turned over to a mechanic. Any idea what I would be looking at cost wise? Thanks again for the feedback.
 
about $90 bucks an hour!....

Here, this is a link to an exploded view of what your problem "COULD" be. I want to emphasize, "could". http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbrands/5/default.aspx

After looking at the exploded view, you'll get the idea of how they come off. Once you remove all the air induction crap out of the way, you'll be able to see a bit better.

I also re-read your post. You say when you go past 3/4 throttle, it just dies. Makes me wonder if you got some crap in your high speed jets........but, if you did, it would be highly coincidental that both carbs were affected. If fuel pressure were affected, then you'd have a stammer in the response. It sounds like your saying this happens like clockwork. Runs good at lower RPM and when WOT, just dies.........

I'm not so certain about the reed valves anymore either. It seems logical that if the reeds were damaged, you'd experience problems at the lower end of the throttle verses the higher end.

I know I've posted some junk for you to read but I'm kinda on the fench as to what the problem is. After thinking about it for a while, the conclusion is that it could be a few things. I dont' think it's the carbs because it would have to be coming from both. But the fuel pump, which initially drives both carbs from the impulse line (check that hose. Should be a small line from the MAG carb going to your block, make sure it's tight.) to the return line. The fuel line pop off pressure.......I wonder about it being electrical, but your not getting any beeps, codes or any other sign to show that it is. You might need to do a fuel pressure test and with out a manual, I think your gonna be spinning your wheels.........
Sorry I couldn't be of more help...........
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Skatman, I appreciate your additional input. I spent 3 hours last night working on the machine. I first changed the fuel filter which had tons of stuff in it and looked like much had probably passed thru it. I checked water in electrcal boxes and there was not more than humidity. I tried running it with out the fuel cap on and that had no effect. The problem got worse over the 45 minutes I ran it until it would barely start and was occuring at all RPMs. I believe I have narrowed it down to clogged/dirty carbs, air flow, and possibly a water impeller issue.

1. Airflow as I have no way of ruling it out right now.
2. Impeller as the machine may be shutting itself down if not being cooler properly - I was riding it in the river so can't tell if impeller is properly working.
3. I feel most likely it is clogged/dirty carbs and they just keep getting worse (as more junk is getting in them)? At this point, I am leaning toward professional help. Let me know if you feel this is a correct action or there is anything else you would check first.

I'll continue reporting until the issue is solved. Thanks again for all the help.
 
The gray fuel lines have a problem that they deteriorate from the inside out. All the insides of the fuel lines break down and enter the carbs and plug then up. This might be one of you problems. I would take one off and measure all the lines and get some new fuel line at Auto zone. In the same diameter as what is on you seadoo. Replace the clamps too if they are rusted of bad.
Clean your carbs and try it again. Keep us posted.

Karl
 
G'day people's,
Just one more thought, if it is air flow and it's been rolled and dryed.
One of the only things i have seen rust is the flame arrester's, i'm guessing this motor has them, if not just tell me to shutup!!:rofl:
If the revs are rising and it can't get enough air, would that would cause it to flood and stall? Are the flame arrester's rusted or blocked up?:confused:

P.S. As Karl & Robin said, Get rid of the grey fuel lines!!! If there not the problem this time, they will be down the track.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sounds like a plan. I'm pulling it off the lift this saturday and taking it to the doctor Monday. "Replace fuel lines" is now added to the list of repairs. I'll keep you posted.
 
Well I took the sea-doo to the doc about 2 weeks ago and they did their diagnosis and called me this morning. Bad news. They say I need a new block that this one is rusted out and that one cylinder has compression of 125 and the other has 55. they priced a rebuild all in at about $3400. I'm not completely buying their diagnosis and was interested in everyone's opinion.

Here is what I'm thinking. It ran great in February when I bought it from my neighbor. I cleaned it up and put it in the garage for two months. When I got it out late march, it idled fine and would run strong until it went to WOT. I can understand that a '99 model ski is likely to have some difference in compression on the two cylinders. But if they are that far off, 125:55, would it idle right? And would it run strong at even short bursts? Does this sound fishy?

I guess I am a bit concerned about the diagnosis being correct. I hope to find someone local to give me a second opinion? Any thoughts?

If it is dead, any ideas who might buy broken skis as I'm not inclined to spend $3400 on a 9 yr old boat?

Thanks for your feedback.
 
I got two opinions that were similar and one guy with a price that was reasonable. He is in Chattanooga, TN and I'd be willing to pass his name along as I feel very comfortable with his work. I needed a motor rebuild and new wear ring. It seems the previous owner had put gas in the oil res and left water in it long enough to rust out the inside. I ran the boat this evening and it runs fine. I am now about 1:15 into the break in period. The mechanic said to run a full tank of rich mixture. Then, go back to straight gas in the gas tank. I think I am headed in the right direction now. Thanks to everyone for the help.
 
had the same issue a while back. Cleaned the fuel filter, cleaned the carb and changed those crappy grey fuel lines now my PWC is running good as new :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

R
No spark XP Limited 1999
Replies
6
Views
247
Roestad
R
Z
1999 GTX Limited Kill Switch
Replies
11
Views
379
bultaco
B
S
1999 Seadoo GTX limited locked
Replies
6
Views
345
Saltydawg1976
S
S
1999 SeaDoo GTX Limited Oil/Carb Problem
Replies
2
Views
182
Grim
Grim
E
951 swap and now issues
Replies
4
Views
229
tobytd
tobytd
Back
Top