1999 Seadoo speedster NEW OWNER

[abouels0827]

Hey, just starting a thread because I have many questions regarding 1999 seadoo speedster twin 787s.
I do have small exhaust wheld corrosion...it is minor.
Also I noticed stiff steering the one time I was able to take it out this year....manly ran it for a hour but it ran good. I noticed courtside engine would get to 7000 rpm for awhile n would randomly drop and hold at 5000 rpm. I am thinking this is because of the small exhaust leak. It barely filled the engine compart. But I just hit the bilge and cleared in a like 3 seconds.

Was also curios if anyone knows of a bigger bore for this year and model.
Guy told me it was beefed up twin 110s pushing 130 hp. I think saw em on eBay from wiseco bored 1.00 over. This is how he listed the boat when I bought it. I didn't care if it was or not just haven't found anyone who knows.
He said it would go 60-65.

 

[abouels0827]

Sorry autocorrect messed some words up in above comment.

 

[abouels0827]

Also Speedo is broke I read thesis common and plan on getting fish/GPS soon I didn't know how fast I was going but I was flying. Gas gauge don't work readbits the baffle and bookmarked the page on how to fix. Overall boat is clean no rips in seats, some fading....just got it winterized....been driving in the 20s where I live Ohio. I paI'd 4 grand for it...just wanted some thoughts and suggestions thanks

 

[Dr Honda]

Congrats on the new boat.

The RPM dropping issue needs fixed. With a 2-stoke engine... and performance issues can lead to a dead engine. Remember... the oil is being transported by the fuel... so if the fuel isn't getting to the engine properly... either is the oil.

I would check over the fuel system for leaks... and rebuild the carbs.

As far as the speedo... chances are... the gauge is just dead. But, check the fuses.

The fuel gauge is most likely the sender. If you found a thread on how to change the float... then you are good on that one.

Trying to add power to the 800 Rotax engine, isn't worth it. Especially in a boat. Since you have 2 engines... you can drop $3k to $4k to get that extra 20~30 hp... but because of the weight/size of the boat... that will equate to about 3~4 mph more up top. AND... the reliability will drop.

 

[racerxxx]

Congrats on the boat, my favorite!

If your leaking water from the pipe and your RPM is varying more than likely the water loss is the problem. I had a welch plug rot out on mine, I was at 7K and the one engine just dropped to 4K and hit a brick wall. I could let off and power back up but it would barely climb back up and just fall to 4K again. I'm assuming that your leaking from one of them on the underside of the pipe. If the leak is minor at idle it's greater at higher RPM's. You want that engine compartment to be as dry as possible, It took me an awful long time to get to that point, and I bought mine brand new off the showroom floor. Now I get about 3/4 cup of water out of the drain when I pull out of the water. Pull the pipe, grind off all 4 plugs and have a shop make new ones and have them welded on, the other side is probably close behind. Dupli-color makes the silver paint that is a real close match HWP101, wheel silver.


The rest I copied from a post I replied to before:Click Here


Is it hard to steer out of the water?

If so, disconnect the steering cable at the back of the boat and then check the steering. You should be able to do disconnect it with one wrench. Then try to steer it. If it's easy to steer, the problem lies in the nozzles. Specifically where they pivot. There is a plastic bushing with a stainless insert. You can carefully press out the bushing. The proper way to do it would be to ream the holes with a reamer---but I'm sure no one would have that in their tool box. So, get a wooden dowel and wrap some sand paper around it and clean the hole up real good. The bushing should very lightly press back in with your fingers. Also, the bushing should pivot on the stainless sleeve that the nozzle bolt goes through, so you may need to clean the bushing up with a drill bit. Perhaps to make it real easy, just clearance the bushing for the sleeve and don't worry about sanding the nozzle. If it does, put it back together and your good to go. I had the same thing on my Speedster, I had to man handle the steering wheel, now I can steer easily one handed while cruising along. Pay close attention to how everything comes apart---even the bushings. The nozzles corrode squeezing the plastic bushing, which in turn squeezes the stainless sleeve, thus making you look like The Incredible Hulk while steering.

http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche...&make=Sea-Doo Sport Boats&year=1999&fveh=2720 This link is for a Challenger, but very similar to the Speedster

#54, 31, 61 and 5 are what your looking at.



As far as making more power, just like Doc said--it's not worth it, 220HP is plenty for the 16.5' hull

 

[abouels0827]

Thanks you for the input

Yes exhaust has minimal leak on portside...ibsaw a small stream when I had it on water idling but after hour only small amount of water so I will weld it and hope for best....the engine portside would get to 7 and fall to 5...but stay constant .....throttling down would resolve issue until I revved back to 7...

Steering was tight. But not really at slow speeds....fast It was very stiff could nth turn with
out it being extremely wide. Seemed dangerous cause it wasn't very

controllable

Also was just I wondering on the 130s hp...that's what the guy told me it had when I bought it.

 

[abouels0827]

I wasn't looking to add more power just figure out if they make bigger pistons because I was told that it had them by previous owner

 

[abouels0827]

Is four grand a good price? I bought it and hadn't test drove it...but tool it out a week later...it started and idled good...one throttle seems tobhave a little play and will fall back if it's not held in hand but both tachs work no fuel haute or Speedo work...everything else seems tobwork fine....no tears in seat. Cover and trailer were included...big tow float

 

[Renehasp]

I just bought a 1998 Speedster for $3,700. Same issues fuel gauge not working, speedy not working and the starboard engine is dropping from 8 to 6 on the tach. A Tech is rebuilding the carbs and replacing the fuel filters. Also hoping he fixes the fuel gage.. Speedy I don't care about cause I plan on using a GPS.

Good luck with yours!!

 

[abouels0827]

Thanks...just a thought...speedster redline at 7 they should never be higher than that. Deaf not at 8 that's working the motor to hard.

 

[abouels0827]

The book value seems to be at 7-8 grand.

 

[Dr Honda]

Depending which version you have.....


720 engine red-line at 7k RPM... and normally run at 6800.

800 engines red-line at 7200 RPM, and normally run at 6900 to 7000 RPM.



$4k is the going price if they are clean, but need a little work.

 

[newfiedoo]

"Is it hard to steer out of the water?

If so, disconnect the steering cable at the back of the boat and then check the steering. You should be able to do disconnect it with one wrench. Then try to steer it. If it's easy to steer, the problem lies in the nozzles."

Thanks, RacerXXX, this is helpful. But how about if it's easy to steer out of the water, but hard to steer in the water? Same thing apply? Mine seems very tough to steer when moving, but is very free on the trailer. I also notice that the boat turns to the left far more quickly than to the right. Turning right requires hundreds of yards!

 

[racerxxx]

"Is it hard to steer out of the water?

If so, disconnect the steering cable at the back of the boat and then check the steering. You should be able to do disconnect it with one wrench. Then try to steer it. If it's easy to steer, the problem lies in the nozzles."

Thanks, RacerXXX, this is helpful. But how about if it's easy to steer out of the water, but hard to steer in the water? Same thing apply? Mine seems very tough to steer when moving, but is very free on the trailer. I also notice that the boat turns to the left far more quickly than to the right. Turning right requires hundreds of yards!

I assume you mean in the water and running, correct? If so that is just the nature of the beast, you're controlling the water direction of two engines and there is no power steering. Turning right at running speeds? Does it turn lock to lock and do the nozzles move the same amount either direction? Or it may just be a fear you need to over come, crank the wheel and let it dip. It's an odd feeling for sure when you feel like you can just about put your elbow into the water yet you're still 16" from the surface of the water and you lose sight over the bow. This thing will turn on a dime either way and give you $.09 change, you just need to tell it to, it's just an inflated ski.

 

[newfiedoo]

Yes, in the water and running. While fear of a sharp turn might be in play here, I can lock the wheel all the way and still only make the most gradual turn to the right. It seems to turn left much easier. Turning the wheel also requires two hands, which I'm assuming from your post is normal at running speeds?

I'll examine the linkages for anything loose, or misaligned. How can I tell if it's the cable that needs replacing?