1999 Seadoo GTI wont start

I'm at a lost. I have a 1999 seadoo GTI. I took it out on some rough chaps and it stopped running on the water. I get it back home and start diagnosing. There's a lot of water in the hull, about almost covering the PTO, so I drain it.

I have spark, compression's at 130, fuel being tested with starter fluid in air box, exhaust water box removed, so no restriction and strong exhaust air when the engine is spun with no water coming out of the exhaust, when the spark plugs were removed, I tested for water in the engine which was none, axle spins freely when cranked and i checked there's nothing stuck in the impeller and the grating is clear, the fuses under the front storage were all checked and good. She just spins with no ignition.

I previously did a full tune-up with two rides in, so the two check valve and gas filter were changed. The plugs are all new so, I can't imagine that being an issue. All fuel lines new

Please help me solve this dilemma...

What am I missing to get that combustion?
 
No response as of yet, but I did some research and it appears that I have a rotary valve issue. That would keep the fuel air mix from entering the engine thus no combustion because of no fuel/air mix.

lol, what sucks is I've had this ski out on the water three times since I bought it and it's broken down on me two of the three time. I feel like throwing it in the trash but I've invested thousands to make it run perfectly, so I guess I might as well continue.
 
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So I took the Rotary valve cover off today and sent it out to get serviced to spec. My clearance was .582mm. it's supposed to be .300mm and .350 being of of spec. I also bought the rotary valve and shaft gear, just in case. My current shaft gear have some minor play so I figured to just change it, so I don't have to go back in there. I really hope this is the issue or ill be lost, why else it won't start.

I'll also check my carb, which I doubt have any issues because of how great it ran when it ran.
 
So I took the Rotary valve cover off today and sent it out to get serviced to spec. My clearance was .582mm. it's supposed to be .300mm and .350 being of of spec. I also bought the rotary valve and shaft gear, just in case. My current shaft gear have some minor play so I figured to just change it, so I don't have to go back in there. I really hope this is the issue or ill be lost, why else it won't start.

I'll also check my carb, which I doubt have any issues because of how great it ran when it ran.
I would be very concerned with that rotary valve gear especially because it was running and then it suddenly wasn’t. You were saying there was a little play in it? Have you checked the rotary valve to see if it’s still in time? Maybe see if you can get some oil out of the rotary valve cavity and have a look for brass shavings in it.
 
I would be very concerned with that rotary valve gear especially because it was running and then it suddenly wasn’t. You were saying there was a little play in it? Have you checked the rotary valve to see if it’s still in time? Maybe see if you can get some oil out of the rotary valve cavity and have a look for brass shavings in it.
You know what, I don't even know why I didn't check to see if it came out of timing. The excessive rotary valve clearance was it for me.This is why I love forums, the different perspective are incredible. When the parts come in, I'll check before replacing the gear and rotary valve. I'm familiar with automotive repairs but ski's are new to me and I couldn't find any specs to see if the play is ok, so I figured I'd just change the part to make sure I have optimum tolerance.
 
So i finally got the ski to start. Shout out to Dr. Honda who posted on another forum where someone had a similar problem, that it was the rotary valve.

The good, is the ski seems to be running good but the bad, when I took it apart, I discovered that the engine is on it's last leg before likely needed a rebuild. The issues are, one of the rotary valve bolt seems to be a standard bolt that's just gripping it on, i'll lilely have to get itbretapped. I had to take the cylinder cover off to change it because the old one has a crack and was leaking water. When I took it apart, I discovered that both cylinder jugs were warped badly, with cracked walls on the outer perimeter. I changed the seals and removed the loose metal, to no avail as there's still two minor water seeping out the joints after putting it back together. it's not bad, but I hate things that aren't perfect when doing repairs and the drips will be on my mind every time i.ride it.
 
So i finally got the ski to start. Shout out to Dr. Honda who posted on another forum where someone had a similar problem, that it was the rotary valve.

The good, is the ski seems to be running good but the bad, when I took it apart, I discovered that the engine is on it's last leg before likely needed a rebuild. The issues are, one of the rotary valve bolt seems to be a standard bolt that's just gripping it on, i'll lilely have to get itbretapped. I had to take the cylinder cover off to change it because the old one has a crack and was leaking water. When I took it apart, I discovered that both cylinder jugs were warped badly, with cracked walls on the outer perimeter. I changed the seals and removed the loose metal, to no avail as there's still two minor water seeping out the joints after putting it back together. it's not bad, but I hate things that aren't perfect when doing repairs and the drips will be on my mind every time i.ride it.
 
LOL, I officially give up on this GTI... This is the third time it broke down on me. I have no idea what can be wrong with it. I thought it was the rotary valve, but after replacing it, it ran like a champ and just died. I'm thinking could it be the bad engine seals or something. But I don't care, I've already purchased a 2016 GTI limited, and I'm done with this one... The fix can be a simple thing but when you're done you, you're done.
 
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