1999 GTX Limited tune up

[Tmkamakzi]

Hey guys!!! Im looking to do a tune up on a 1999 GTX limited to get it in pristine running condition. I recently just purchased this item used but it just felt right so I went for it. If ya'll have any recommendations I would be much obliged, as any information will work.

Also Premier membership....... I assume a service manual is included in the "Restricted Area" that I can view and possible print?

 

[seadoosnipe]

Printing the manual!....

Yes, the manual can be printed and kept in the shop while you work on your Doo.....I'd go to an office supply store like "office depot" and buy a good quality, hard type paper. I found that the standard printing paper didn't hold up to my greasy fingers.........:rofl:
As for your tune-up.....you didn't mention how it ran. Have you done a compression test yet? If not, that would be the first thing I'd do. If your not familar with the test, there are several members here who can help you out with those procedures. You can purchase the gage at your local "auto parts" store for about $20 bucks.
You should remove your RAVE valves and check them for carbon deposits, clean them with brake cleaning spray and a wire brush. If your not familar with the RAVE, you can see what these valves look in a thread I created titled, "a look inside the 787". It's in the boat section. Although the engines are different, the RAVE valves are similar.
Then, reading your spark plug condition will tell you how your engine is running. Lean or rich, etc.....This link may give you some pointers....http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqread2.asp
There are several experienced Rotax mechanics and a lot of interns that would love to help you out if you need it. Look at my suggestions. Let us know how your ski runs. Then, post more info. You'll get plenty of replies. I promise.
If your not familar with the 2 cycle oil requirments, this should be on the top of your priorty "need to know" list.:cheers:

 

[ScubaDoo]

To add to seadoosnipe's reply, you can read the manual on line as a pdf file too before you print off what you need. I look for what I need than print off the page or pages needed, and toss them when finished. This way you can always print them off again when you need them and have a clean copy to use.

 

[Tmkamakzi]

Thank you, seadoosnipe for your information. I will check the RAVE valves and clean them thoroughly. I replaced the spark plug on it this morning and charged up the battery and it cranked right over. I was a little concerned because it sounds like it has a fast idle. Do you know what the idle RPM's should be on my GTX? Also i did notice the gas gauge is not giving a reading. I have scrolled through most of the posts in regards to this issue and Im hoping the magnets fell off (whatever that means). If it’s anything like changing a float in a vehicle “automobile…. For you oversea’ers” is should be no sweat and maybe Im just anticipating difficulty due to the fact that this is a crazy water cruising instrument of extreme pleasure. Also I am not familiar with running a compression test and hope the work minimal. I am again happy to hear...... well “read” that ya'll are a great bunch of folks and your service is greatly appreciated. I get the vibe that you love your jobs, which makes me eager to make my new toy prrrrrrrrr. Oh lastly thanks for the info Scubadoo !!!!

 

[ScubaDoo]

Your GTX will idle a little higher on the hose compared to the doo in the water. It doesn't have the load applied to the impeller as it does in the water. The out of water RPM's should be like 3,000 RPM's out of the water and about 2500 rpm's in the water from the load applied from the water. The magnets in the tank apply to the units that use the baffle tube style. It's a easy repair if that's the problem. Keep us posted when you tackle the guage problem and we'll help you out best as we can.

ScubaDoo

 

[Tmkamakzi]

Talking about RAVE Valves on this post
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=936
Is the take apart and put back together something i can do in a hour or two? Are special tools required ?

 

[seadoosnipe]

Raves.....

Yes, you can do it in an hour or two. I see you've read the thread, so if you use it as your guideline, then you shouldn't have any problem. Read carefully about the one you have to dis-assemble to get out. There are no special tools required except a metric socket. You'll want some carb cleaner on hand since it's some good stuff in removing carbon build-up.
Good luck and feel free to post your results or ask any more questions. There are several people in the forum that's done this work, so you have a lot of back-up. :cheers:

 

[Tmkamakzi]

Thank you seadoosnipe, do you have any info on compression checking and within what parameters my 99 should be in?

 

[kustomkarl]

The compression should be at a preferred 150 psi. anything under 100psi per cylinder means it needs some TLC. Be sure to use the ground studs for the plug caps when doing the compression test. If your unfamiliar at doing a compression check give us a holler back and we'll give you a step by step procedure.

Karl

 

[Tmkamakzi]

Thank you kustomKarl. I'll go pick up a compression tester and schec it out mon. Thanks buddy.

 

[Tmkamakzi]

Does anyone know since i messed up and filled my injection tank with the wrong oil do i need to bleed the lines once i put it all back together or can i just burn off the oil by starting her up. Also does anyone know an easy way to get to the oil filter for my 99 gtx ltd.

 

[kustomkarl]

You need to dump the oil from the tank and add the correct oil. If you only added the wrong oil to the tank than it didn't fill the lines. It just filled the tank. Dump the tank and fill it with the correct oil. The oil filter should be in line. Follow the line to the filter. Let us know if we can be of any more help.

Karl

 

[Tmkamakzi]

Thank you...... i eneded up haveing to remove my accesory compartment so i could reach my oil filter. I have removed and dumped plus cleaned out my oil tank. I did run oil through my engine for about 1 quart that was not api-tc. Would it be ok for me to burn the rest of it out of my lines past my oil filter or do i have to drain if from my oil pump.

 

[kustomkarl]

I wouldn't take a chance...clean all you can out of the system. If you drain the oil injector pump you will have to re-prime it so there aren't air bubbles in line that could cause the engine to seize up if it doesn't get oil.
I hope this helps, I'll be here for you if you need any more advice.

Karl