1998 Sportster 1800 long steady beep.

[docster]

So I have a 1998 Sportster 1800, twin 720s. Last year it had an issue where when running fast for a bit i would get a steady long beep. It would continue to beep after I shut the engines off and only stop once I pulled the key. Now this all happened when I changed to brass pumps. Was there an o ring I may have missed or something? I get a good stream of warm water out of each pump, so I know it's cycling water. Both sides appear to pass the same amount.

Any ideas? I thought it could be overheating but one does not feel hotter than the other. Can the temp sensor on top of the motor fail?

 

[docster]

I am pretty sure I am missing part 60 and 17 from this diagram. Could this do it?

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...=172&b=15&c=0&d=-PROPULSION-SYSTEM---INTERNAL

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Part #17 perhaps, this is pressurized water feed from the jet pump to the engine. Part #60 is the automatic bilge siphon that wasn't implemented in many boats, those look like they plugged the venturi tubes. If the venturi tubes aren't plugged or restricted, arguably it might affect pump performance a little (I wouldn't bet on this but maybe), however, malfunctioning auto-siphon venturis won't obstruct engine cooling.

It's also possible one of the overheat sensors is failing but if both are closing and sounding the overheat horn then you could say both are running hotter than normal. Those sensors close at nearly 100*C I believe, this is boiling point of water and enough to scald your skin. As a rule, it's unusual for most any marine engine to reach that high of temperature externally.

Another common issue of overtheating is the lower engine cylinder block sleeve drain, make sure it's not plugged with sand or debris, this will roast a motor.

But if you're leaking at #17 at the water supply inlet from the pump, that could very well be the issue.

 

[howie099]

I have the same boat and I did the same swap. Removed the plastic pumps and put in 2 brass ones. Never had any overheating issues unless your bearing are dragging or missing the o-ring and water is leaking by. I did add the neoprene seal from the boat to pump just to make sure but other than that I just unbolted one and bolted up the other one. I just took the o-ring from the old pump. Is both engines beeping or just one? You can remove the buzzer wires one at time to see which one or both are beeping.

 

[ialonso]

So, the temperature sensor is right on the engine head. as was stated the temperature for the beeps to trigger is HIGH! You can perceive the heat radiating from the hot motor by putting your hand near it (without even touching it) You can check there is good flow from the pump by unhooking the "in" hose while on the water, and lowering it on the bilge. Water should flow in freely and liberally. If not, something's clogged. If the water flows in, need to check if it's a false positive from a faulty sensor or if the engine is truly overheating. Good Luck

 

[docster]

I have the same boat and I did the same swap. Removed the plastic pumps and put in 2 brass ones. Never had any overheating issues unless your bearing are dragging or missing the o-ring and water is leaking by. I did add the neoprene seal from the boat to pump just to make sure but other than that I just unbolted one and bolted up the other one. I just took the o-ring from the old pump. Is both engines beeping or just one? You can remove the buzzer wires one at time to see which one or both are beeping.

Do you mean just unplug the temp sensor from the head one at a time? Neither engine feels warmer than the other. So maybe it's just that?

 

[howie099]

Yep than you will see if one or both are beeping. I did that when my one engine sucked up something and I had to limp home on 1 engine that damn thing wouldn't shut up until I removed the wire even though the engine was off.