1998 speedster Impeller / RAVE valve (pics)

[cdnjaguar]

Hello,

After a LOT of research and shopping around, I have finally found myself a 1998 Speedster and couldn't be happier!!



I bought her knowing a few issues and was hoping I could get some input on them. I had this boat inspected by the local Sea Doo shop and was told the following:

compression all around is 120-125. I thought it was supposed to be 150psi, but the mechanic told me that it really depends on the engine and that both of these were within spec and good to go.... still not sure about this one...

The impellers

They said I would have to have both impellers and wear rings replaced... they quoted $1,400. There are a few write ups on here and it seems pretty straight forward and it's something I figure I can do myself. I'm attaching a few pictures, they are dinged up pretty bad, but figure it will do me the rest of the summer and all change them out over the winter. One thing, is that the port impeller seems to be backed off the drive shaft.... what do you guys think? should I be worried about this?




RAVE valves

Both RAVE valves seem to be spitting oil. I'm told they were changed out last year... any ideas why they would be spitting oil?




Engines

They both start pretty good. but I notice that the starboatd engine tends to run a little slower than the Port. To the point were I need to split the throttles about 3/4" to get the same RPM.. but both max out at the same RPM.... The Port throttle lever is loose, so it may just need tightening..

The Starboard one seems to be smoking a bit, where as the Port one doesnt... is this common? Being a 2 stroke, I expected to see at least some smoking from the Port?

Revving up, the Starboard seems to rev up with the throttle lever, but the port seems to hesitate a bit, then take off... Is this anything to be concerned about?

Thanks everyone!


..Oh, and other things I have discovered while on the water:

1) It doesn't start well without the DESS key on the post
2) It doesn't go forward very fast with the lever in Neutral :thumbsup:
3) it is more fun than I thought it would be!

 

[Dr Honda]

congrats on the new boat.

First............... that mechanic has his head WAY up is rear-side. A Rotax/seadoo engine will have 150 psi if it's healthy. The only one that's lower is the 951 engine, and it's 135. So... your 800's with 120/125 PSI are not "in spec"... and on their last legs. I would do a top end on both before you have a meltdown.


Second... $1400 to rebuild a pair of pumps. Now I know he's smoke'in crack. Not to mention... he has what actually needs work backward. The pumps are rough... but unless you have bad cavitation... they are OK. If it was my boat... all I would do is file the leading edges of the impellers clean, and call it a day. Besides... they are skat-trak swirl impellers, and are worth salvaging.


Doing the pumps yourself is easy. No reason to pay someone WAY too much money for a simple job.

Even the top-ends are doable by the home mechanic. They will cost you a few hundred $$$ each. (if you catch them before you have an issue)


As far as the RAVE's... it's hard to say on my end. They do tend to leak. But if they are leaking from under the cap... you will need to pop-them open, and take a look. Also... you say they were changed last season... but what did they change? and why?



Finally... yes... they do run better with the lanyard on, and in gear.

Have fun with it.

 

[LouDoo]

Yes I agree with most everything the Doc says, however if it were my boat I would get another reading on the compression. Since your mechanic was somewhat less that forth coming about the pumps, he may not have told you the whole truth about the compression.

It looks to me that your boat has replacement engines and I suspect they are SBT, they may not have that may hours on them. Buy yourself a compression gauge and check it yourself, cold engine, throttle open, remove spark plugs and ground the leads.

Lou

 

[Guest_User]

Yes I agree with most everything the Doc says, however if it were my boat I would get another reading on the compression. Since your mechanic was somewhat less that forth coming about the pumps, he may not have told you the whole truth about the compression.

It looks to me that your boat has replacement engines and I suspect they are SBT, they may not have that may hours on them. Buy yourself a compression gauge and check it yourself, cold engine, throttle open, remove spark plugs and ground the leads.

Lou

LOU, I don`t think these are SBT`s. Look at the ID tags... SBT`s are painted over and have a number by the head cover joint.
Also that engine in the picture was def wrenched on, look at the head bolts...
By the looks of that oil blowing out, The bellows/piston probably has a nice hole in it and puking oil... the OP needs to open the caps and look inside...

 

[LouDoo]

Regardless it's a rebuilt engine and it wouldn't hurt to do another compression test.

Lou

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep......... a second opinion is allays the best.

 

[Guest_User]

Regardless it's a rebuilt engine and it wouldn't hurt to do another compression test.

Lou

true, I didn`t think I meant not to... just noticed the tag on the case, that`s all...no harm, no foul :cheers:

 

[racerxxx]

Those engines are still original, the heads were probably retorqued. I doubt the top ends were done as the exhaust manifold bolts are still OEM painted. I guess you could pull the jugs together with the manifold still connected, but to hone them together and then to lower them back on and fit the rings into the bores, you'd need like 10 guys. Pop the RAVE caps and check the bellows, they're probably popped off from the housing(at the bottom) or melted. If the rubber bellows are red, they will be replaced with the new green ones. My 99 came with the green ones from the factory. Try the new bellows if they are shot, but the housings may be shot as well. Have someone competent check the compression, I think that guy was trying to make some cash off you possibly.

As for your impeller, you missing two parts, and if you mechanically inclined the pumps are pretty straight forward to work on. You could buy all new OEM pumps and parts for less that what that guy was going to charge you for impellers and wear rings.

271000516 (Boot or seal is what its called)
271000517 (Cone that slides over the boot to help the boot seal)

Both will run you about $10 total.

They are very fun boats and are head turners for sure. Enjoy you ride.

 

[cdnjaguar]

thanks everyone for your input, I really appreciate it!! I'll get myself a pressure tester tomorrow and see exactly what I got. Would it be worth it to rent a boroscope to take a look at the pistons and cylinder, or is it easy to pull the cylinder cover?

As far as the impellers go, should I be concerned that the Port one is further back and exposing the splines on the drive shaft? If I got time tomorrow, I might pull the pump assys and take a look. Thank you for the part numbers! I'll make sure to pick up a boot and cone before pulling the pumps..... Are there any shims, or alignment devices that I need to be aware of when pulling the pump assembly?

Not sure if they are cavitating... if they are, would a new wear ring resolve that? seems pretty easy to change using the freezer trick.

As far as the RAVE valves go, I'll pop the cap off and see what I got going on in there. Not sure why they were replaced last year, or if they are all brand new, or just certain parts were replaced. Will check tomorrow.

It's crazy, people are always coming up to me asking me about the boat lol really is a head turner.

Thanks again!

 

[cdnjaguar]

Well,

Did a compression test today and all cylinders are above 140. Don't know what the guy at the shop was talking about. He even specified 120psi in the paperwork lol. So I'm happy to report that my engines appear to be good!

I have pulled my starboard pump ( a lot easier than I thought, gotta love SS hardware!) and it is not wearing evenly. It wore a grove approx .020-.030 deep on the inboard side with .045ish clearance. While on the outboard side there is barely any groove with .015 clearance. Is this abnormal? Or should I just pop a new wear sleeve in and let it ride?

Loking at replacing the impellers as well, are there any good after market props worth checking out or is standard OEM the way to go?

As far as the rave vales go, popped the cap off and the bellows seems fine, so I dunno. Gonna keep running it and cleaning up the splatter till I overhaul them this winter. Looking for a good walk throug if anyone has a link handy?

Thanks everyone for your input, I'm glad these boats have a vibrant and helpful community behind them!!

 

[Guest_User]

that sounds like cavitation burns, normal... mine don`t wear evenly either, dam plastic pumps...lol...
I actually liked the OEM impellers in the challenger, it was a nice compromise. I`ve heard some aftermarket impellers can create more cavitiation, so I was careful in choosing the pitch for ours. running 15\23 solas concords, so far so good...

you should look into that oil leak and fix it on the RAVES...

 

[cdnjaguar]

From what I can find, the 15\23 solas concords or OEM are my only 2 options for this boat. found them on ebay for $251.99

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Solas-Concor...Personal_Watercraft_Parts&hash=item43b1c0ed32

Or, there is another version of the same imp. for $215, but it doesn't appear to have the swirl on th eleading edge:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SEA-DOO-GSX-...Personal_Watercraft_Parts&hash=item3cc9c7db43

Note sure how that will effect performance....

OEM props are running $350 up here, so I'm leaning to the solas. And now that I have the pump off, my current impeller blades have already been reworked and have a good bit of material missing, so thinking if going new and being done with it.

If I do get new impellers, do I have to realign the pump assembly? I didn't see any shims when I removed the assembly...


I'll pop the raves off the engine and give them a clean to see if that helps...

Thanks everyone!